Author Topic: Power and ignition  (Read 1290 times)

shawn_and_his_kaiser

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Power and ignition
« on: July 20, 2019, 10:21:13 AM »
I apologize early if any part of this should be obvious, I'm learning. What is it between the battery and the coil that supplies the coil with power? My motor turns, but it's getting any spark. I've replaced everything I can think of, including the coil and switching to electronic ignition from Pertronix and still nothing. I've driven the car a few different times so I know it runs, but hasn't in over a year. I'm at my wits end, frustrated and sadly losing interest. I've had the car for almost 4 years.
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Fid

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Re: Power and ignition
« Reply #1 on: July 20, 2019, 10:37:19 AM »
Quote
What is it between the battery and the coil that supplies the coil with power?

Hi Shawn, your frustration is understandable.  The only thing between the coil and the battery is the ignition switch and the wires connecting it all.  I don't remember, do you have six volts on both sides of the coil when the switch is on?
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shawn_and_his_kaiser

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Re: Power and ignition
« Reply #2 on: July 20, 2019, 11:53:10 AM »
Not sure how to check that.
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joefrazer

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Re: Power and ignition
« Reply #3 on: July 20, 2019, 11:56:53 AM »
Connect a wire from the negative post on the battery to the negative post on the coil. Then try to start the car. If it starts, the issue is either a bad ignition switch or wiring from it to the coil. If the car doesn't start, then the issue lies from the coil on to the distributor.


joefrazer

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Re: Power and ignition
« Reply #4 on: July 20, 2019, 11:58:09 AM »
Using a voltmeter, turn the ignition switch on and check for 6V at both terminals on the coil. No voltage there is a signal that there's an issue feeding voltage to the coil. You can also try the test I mentioned earlier.

njpatera

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Re: Power and ignition
« Reply #5 on: July 20, 2019, 12:03:41 PM »
Boy, there’s a lot of this going on😂 I’m in the same situation now with mine that’s sat since ‘73....hang in there!
Regards,
Noah

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rialto

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Re: Power and ignition
« Reply #6 on: July 21, 2019, 10:40:34 PM »
Get an old fashion non electronic 12 volt automotive test light. It will work on six volts. The ignition coil has two small wires on it. One goes directly to the distributor. The other goes through the firewall to the ignition switch. Turn the ignition on . Hook the ground wire of the test light to the battery ground terminal , positive post. Touch the pointed end on the test light to the coil terminal going to the ignition switch. It should light. While cranking starter Test light should light at same spot. If it lights ignition switch and wire to coil is OK. Touch the test light to the other small wire end. When cranking starter over light should flicker. If light stays on steady while cranking or is out when cranking then the problem is probably in the distributor or the small wire going to it.It's possible the coil is bad. I don't know the trouble shooting procedure for petronix . I could be more help if it had points.

Doc

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Re: Power and ignition
« Reply #7 on: July 23, 2019, 09:02:50 AM »
Not sure if you said you had no spark at the spark plug, but this is what I used for Pertronix testing a few weeks ago.
Step 1 Remove the distributor cap without removing the plug wires to gain access to the PeTronix parts. Connect one end of a 36-inch jumper wire to the battery negative terminal. Connect the other end of the jumper wire to the Ignitor module base plate. Inspect the Ignitor wiring connections and look for damage. Pay particular attention to the ground wire inside the distributor for proper connection. Repair or replace any improperly connected or damaged wires.
Step 2 Unplug the red Ignitor module wire. Connect the red Ignitor module lead to the battery positive terminal using a jumper wire if required. Attach the black lead of the multimeter to the Ignitor module black wire. Attach the red lead of the multimeter to the battery positive terminal.
Step 3 Rotate the center magnetic sleeve of the distributor shaft by hand or by cranking the engine. The multimeter should show a fluctuation between battery voltage and zero volts.
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