horn repair - steering wheel medallion removal? contact plate question

[jmxkf1]

I'm trying to repair the horn on a '53 Dragon.  I've turned and unlocked the medallion on the steering wheel but can't easily remove it with out damaging it.   Is there a better way?   Thanks,  Jim

[joefrazer]

At issue is the tight fit between the medallion and the horn ring. What I've done is to use a spark plug feeler gauge, the type with the multiple thickness tabs - I put some oil on a tab that fit between the two and worked it around the medallion while pushing down on the horn ring at the left and right end. Eventually, the medallion popped up enough that I was able to remove it.

[konrad]

Good info to know since my horn also does not function.

What is the most common problem with KF horns?  I already have a replacement horn relay switch...if that is the problem...they're cheap and easy to get...figured it was worth having in my toolbox moving forward.

But if there's a common error, reason these horns fail to function, that would be useful to know...

[mbflemingkf]

Suction cup.  Work it around in conjunction with joefrazer's tip....or use cup almost same size as medallion plastic.  Will also help in rotating medallion counterwise to break free from ring.

[vt2000driver]

I could not get mine to come off ether.  so I had my daughter (adult) put on the latex gloves and use her smaller hands to twist it.  it had NO choice but to move.  after the movement hit the horn ring and it came off.  now I need her to come back and put it back on.   

[kaiserfrazerlibrary]

There are several things that could be going on here and need to test the entire system.  To start with, you will need a well insullated jumper wire  to run from the negative terminal to the terminal on the horn itself.  Carefully attach jumper to the terminal and tap the negative battery terminal (remember Kaiser-Frazer products are positive ground).  If the horn does not hunk, you may have a bad horn-my 1951 Business Coupe needed replacements because the innards were corrorded which happens over time.  If the horn honks, following the information in the factory service manual try the jumper test again, putting power to the horn relay.  If it honks, with the medailion check the steering wheel horn wiring (diagram in the shop manual) to see if you have connections

[jmxkf1]

Thanks All for the great tips!

[jmxkf1]

I got the medallion center piece off and the prongs of the contact plate were not making contact.  I bent the prongs to make contact but now the horn blows nonstop.  The fix is to cover the tabs of the contact plat with electrical tape.  That doesn't seem right on a car like this.  See pics.  I ran into this problem a few cars ago on the last '53 Kaiser but I figured it was due to wiring problems on that car.   But this car is a restored Dragon and it has the same issue. 
After I covered the tabs with tape the horn appears to work fine.  I can blow the horn via the horn ring.
There's no mention of contact plate having insulation on the tabs in the manual or other material.  Any idea why this is so?   Thanks,  Jim

[Fid]

The fix is to cover the tabs of the contact plat with electrical tape.  That doesn't seem right on a car like this.

That is exactly what you have to do.  The plate originally had insulators on the tabs (thick black rubber/plastic like substance) which wears off. I've fixed several of mine that way.

[Bob L.]

Not sure if any help....but....

I had issue with my 54 Manhattan horn... first didn't honk, then couldn't keep it from going all the time.  Issue was nothing behind the ring to push it back when let off.  Appeared originally to have some black material, like rubber... had died. 

I took some Armorflex (black insulating material for cold) and cut chunks to stuff in behind the ring.  Playing with amount/location, I got some "insulated" spring action behind the ring...so when you let off, it was pushed off the contact ring...   You can find similar material at big box stores for doing pipes at house... not quite the same, but probably would work.... just need something "spongy" that has memory and will live... a dab of weatherstrip cement might be needed to hold into place.

Bob L.

[Fid]

Bob L, your fix will do the job for what you describe.  Good for you.

The J and some of the Kaisers have that black rubber "donut" under the horn ring/button and it does get mushy and dead over time.
Rudy sells repros of it and they work great but if you can make your own, good for you.

Here's how it looks in the J

[jmxkf1]

Hi Fid and thanks for confirming that insulating the tabs on the contact plate was correct.  That solves the mystery. 

The fix is to cover the tabs of the contact plat with electrical tape.  That doesn't seem right on a car like this.

That is exactly what you have to do.  The plate originally had insulators on the tabs (thick black rubber/plastic like substance) which wears off. I've fixed several of mine that way.