ENGINE OIL HORNETS NEST

[Terry T]

I am going to hit it with a baseball bat.
I have been using Rotella T1 30W for years.
It was previously API SJ, which is touted to be appropriate for flat tappet engines, especially small air-cooled ones.
Lasted bottle is rated SL.
With that rating, should one add additional ZDDP, or switch oils, e.g. Racing VR1?

[DTort96646]

I always add a bottle of Rislone with ZDDP (zinc compound) for flat tappet wear prevention in my pre 2000 model year engines. I use synthetic oil in the proper viscosity for the specific year engine.

[Terry T]

research claims too much ZDDP is also bad.
proper concentration may be difficult
both Kohler and B&S state.... use SJ and above..no additives

[DTort96646]

Believe what you wish. I have followed this protocol for 20 years or so and have had no issues.

[kaiserfrazerlibrary]

Shortly after Barbara and I got our Henry J (summer 2017) I was informed by the folks at Quaker State that their conventional type motor oil would be re-formulated with only 850 PPM of zinc and other trace elements needed for the cam bearings and other parts in older (pre-1968) engines.  After talking to the Valvoline people, it seemed that the VR-1 full synthetic motor oil would be a good replacement in terms not only of cost but of content.  VR-1 and the Hemmings oil both have over 1400 ppm of zinc and trace elements and soon after the discussion and their verification of contents that Valvoline started to push the fact that the VR-1 was good for classic cars as well as various racing engine applications.

Because straight 20 weight oil is not available in the VR-1 type and recent issues of KFOCI QUARTERLY have addressed use of multi-viscosity oil in K-F and Willys engines used in K-F cars (HJ and Darrin) either the 10w30 or 30 weight straight seems to work well and is available from O'Riley and other large auto parts houses (you may have to order a 6 qt standard pack box and wait a couple days for it to come in but there should be no shipping charges if sent to store for pick-up). 

I also suggest that once a year, run the Valvoline product called TOP TREAT through the engine to clean out deposits of "crud" and stuff.   This seems to work well in the 161 cu in flathead 6 in our Henry J.

[MarkH]

These guys seem to have done the research not only optimum zinc content, but other additives & modifiers not usually mentioned. https://inrccca.org/product/classic-car-motor-oil/

[konrad]

These guys seem to have done the research not only optimum zinc content, but other additives & modifiers not usually mentioned. https://inrccca.org/product/classic-car-motor-oil/

Just checked O'Reilly's website and it appears the Valvoline VR1 30w is no longer available.

Looks like your link points to a last, best option for keeping our cars on the road.  I'm sure this is not by design. 

The VR1 30w is still available online, the price a bit higher than what you've linked to...I think I'll be ordering a case or two of this classic car oil soon.

Bonus...200 ppm more of zinc than the VR1

[kaiserfrazerlibrary]

I have had no problems getting it through one of the Seattle/Tacoma area O'Rilley's stores and don't pay the shipping costs as I pick-up at the store.