Kaiser Driver

[HJ-ETEX]

kndllmtt: When cars started to have fuse blocks the fixture was located at the back of the light switch (4 fuses or less) and later when more fuses were used the fuse block became the interior part of the 'pass through' connection on the firewall. KF cars have a 30 amp circuit breaker at the back of the light switch that controls all the standard lights. If you need to rewire a KF, you are going to rip out the headliner.
Wiring to the rear of the car goes up the drivers side windshield post, over the doors and then into the trunk. This is fabric insulated wire so the individual wires are both larger because of the larger gauge used with 6V systems and the type of insulation.

[Jim B PEI]

...and generally speaking if you don't have a centralized block, you can have more dependable wiring car-wide, with easily traceable single faults. I had two--no, FOUR cars which became a nightmare due to excess humidity rotting central junction blocks at contacts and INSIDE the wires. Sometimes intermittently, and not easily found. None of those were Kaisers, Frazers, Studebakers etc. GM, Ford, Plymouth and Peugeot were their names.

[kndllmtt]

Okay, so that raises the question "Where have other people put a fuse block?" I don't have much choice in the wiring of this car as I have no trace of wiring in this car. I don't even have any pigtails to connect any original lights. For me least, the fuse block is part of the "run with what you know" category.

I thought about a couple places, none of them sound spectacular but here it goes:
1. Mounting it to the firewall, under the hood, easy to mount, easy to access, but ugly.
2. The firewall again, but under the dash. Nice and hidden, but I don't know how easy to mount or access it will be due to the small size of the dash.
3. In the trunk, easy to access, easy to mount, and hidden, but then I have to deal with most of the wiring that needs to run to the front of the car.

Any thoughts?

[kndllmtt]

I think he got his computer and Kaiser forums mixed.

[Jim B PEI]

Actually, I think that was a 'spam' posting. If there is a link to something commercial-like or not appropriate on a newbie posting, then I report it to the moderator.

[kndllmtt]

Hey, I started running wire the other day and I realized that the pig tails they gave me in the kit look quite a bit like GM pigtails. Can anyone tell me if they are the same?

[kndllmtt]

Question about the radiator. Size (measurements), tank locations, and inlet/ outlet locations.

Thanks for any response.

[Wildcat]

If it helps any I just finished re-wiring my 51 deluxe and it wasn't a walk in the park.  I picked up Painless' generic 12 circuit kit and it was put together nicely and everything is labeled.  I put my fuse block under the dash where the original junction block was, so no new holes, you can see one carriage bolt in the engine bay though.  I picked up the light pigtails at my local parts stores, Autozone, NAPA and Carquest all had them, 1158 bulbs for the front lights are hard to come by though, Carquest was able to order them in.  Mine is a convertible now so all of the rear wires are ran under the carpet on the driver's side.  Also I pulled the vent tube out and put all of the wires under it so the engine area looks really clean, other than all of the dust of course.

[Kaiser Ranchero]

How did you do the connections to the instruments? And are you using the 12 volt set up?

[kndllmtt]

Yes please enlighten us. 

[Wildcat]

Everything is 12 volt now except the wipers, blower, OD solenoid and clock, they are all ran through a voltage regulator.  As for the gauges I have a switched power lead coming into the breaker or regulator on the back and to each gauge after that, then the gauges to their respective sending units.  Everything works but oil pressure, I need to look into that a little more.

[Kaiser Ranchero]

Keep posting your progress. Check the sending unit, with power or by grounding it.