Gas Tank Leak

[Logan]

I went to replace my fuel level sending unit, and so I needed to drain the gas tank.  There was a bolt on the bottom of the tank with a plug in it.  When I started turning the plug, the bolt began rotating too, and gas started leaking around it.  Apparently, it was loose in the tank, held on only by some kind of sealant or goo.  I was wondering it these are normally welded in the tank (53K).  I was planning on just removing the tank and taking it to somebody to weld (as I don't have my own equipment) unless someone here knows of a better way.

[Wildcat]

Just did mine two weeks ago.  Stripped and purged the tank and just soldered it with a torch and solder.  I put some JB weld around the joint for extra measure and to clean it up and put a new plug in.  Looks and works great.  Neighbors gave me a funny eye when they saw me taking a torch to a fuel tank though.  Oh well.

[HJ-ETEX]

The fitting on the drain plug on the tank of my 51 K cracked on its own (I never tried removing the plug) and started leaking. Fortunately it was near home. I didn't think I could get a replacement fitting and I had doubts about how reliable soldering in a replacement would be. So I removed the broken fitting, soldered a plug over the hole and coated the tank. By the 60s cars didn't have drain plugs - probably for just this reason. The gas tank on a 51-55 Kaiser is not all that hard to remove and replace. I seem to have done it a number of times.   

[HJ-ETEX]

And by the way, if the gas tank has an odor of stale/old gas, you are likely to cause an explosion if you are using a torch to solder things. No, I don't mean that it will blow up the building. I mean that fire will loudly shoot out the openings in the tank and take off the hair and shirt sleeve on your arm if it is close to the opening.
Logan, a previous owner probably had trouble with the tank plug and gooped it up as best he could. Don't expect JB Weld to do the job by itself because it will soften under constant contact with gas.

[Gordie]

Most radiator shops are good at cleaning out and repairing gas tanks.  If you don't have any experience with these it is better to have a professional do it and be risk free.

[Logan]

I talked to a radiator shop today and they have said they can do it, so I will take that route and let you know how it goes.

[Logan]

I have the tank out now and wondered if I should clean out the lines at the same time.  If I do, how should I do it?

[HJ-ETEX]

Logan: Why would you need to clean the line? Basically, the fuel line and the steel brake lines rust from the outside in. Blow the fuel line out with air. If there is any doubt about the fuel line, just replace it using standard length flared lines from a car parts store. This is where a K-D  brake line pliers comes in handy to bend the replacement steel line. Unlike replacing the brake lines, you can cut and join the segments of the fuel line with compression couplings (ferules). On brake lines, you have to use a junction between the inverted flair fittings.

[Logan]

Well, that was my question, and that's why I asked.  I'll just blow it out.

[Kaiser Ranchero]

Check around the solder area where the pickup fitting comes out of the tank. That area leaked on my tank. Had to file all the old solder away and have the radiator shop redo it.

[Logan]

I took it to a good shop--I hadn't noticed this, but when the guy was looking over it, he said he would take care of that too--and fit it inot the 1 hour charge.  It's a good mom and pop store--literally, husband and wife running it since the early 70's.  I'll pick it up on Friday, and get back on the road!

[jsgmpeek]

After you clean your tank you might consider sealing treatment as advertised by Eastwood. Ref item 10165Z for $49.99