Engine Timing and Vacuum Gauge

[Doc]

Have the '51 Frazer distributor set such that 20" vacuum is achieved on a vacuum gauge, indicating timing set accurately. Once started the car idles smoothly and ascends hills ok and goes down the road alright as far as I have taken it about 1/4 mile.  However, the car is very difficult to start and exhibits this "kick-back" type scenario where it sounds like the starter maybe is not enaging. Any thoughts?

[superk226]

Sounds like the timing is set too far advanced and it is causing the kick back when trying to start. I would check the timing with a light to verify the correct timing.

[Doc]

Have had extreme difficulty setting the timing on this car.  That's on previous posts into last year. It's that dual-hole bracket that's hard to work with. But is the proper way to set it as follows:
1. Loosen the passenger side nut so it can turn freely.
2. Then loosen the driver side and try to adjust.

The bracket just turns back and forth while trying to adjust it. Tried using the timing light in the past and when we got it set anywhere around the specs, the car would not make it up a hill and idled poorly. Never had so much trouble as on this particular Frazer that a total engine rebuild back in late 2009.

[Doc]

Well, this car's timing issue remains bizarre as it has since we had the engine rebuilt in late 2009 (still under restoration so no attempt at more than a drive down to the end of the block). This distributor rotates CCW so I retarted the timing just a little byt turning the distribuor CW but it got no better and on three attemprs with just a little mor each time, it got progressively. So I went back where I had it and turned the distributor CCW (advancing) and upon doing this a couple times the car started immediately and idled well.  I did not put a vacuum guage or timing light on it yet. Let it warm up for a few moments but it still exhibits this flate spot where if you really hit the accelerator pedal, the car will stall out (yep, rebuilt carburetor).  So WHY advancing the distributor cured the kickback, I cannot grasp why that is. 

[Thomas]

Ok, here is the skinny on the 226 distbutor!  It has a habit of wearing one small area of the upper & lower bushings and it is not to easy to find by moving the shaft.  It will in time flatten #2 rod & or #2 main journals. The reason is at mid to high rpm the shaft will bounce slightly causing the points to open early on one or two cyl. usually #2. Dist. machine testers normally clamp the shaft enough so the vibration  does not show up. It is easy to find on the car, the first indication is timing problems, so here is how to spot it! Put 3 marks on the damper, at 0 -120 -240 degrees. You do not need to be perfect as it is only a visual reference. Set timing light on #1 cyl.  run engine rpm up to 2000 stopping at different rpms for a second or three. The mark should advance with no bounce and hold steady at a constant rpm. Do this for each cyl. The problem usually shows up by #2 or #3 cyl if not do all 6. If ANY bounce during rpm up or down advance or retard pull dist. and fix it as it WILL cost money for engine repairs. The same dist. was used on 3 fresh engines and all 3 had crank problems within 3000 miles! Do this any time you do a tune up it is cheap insurance. (use 0-90-180-270 degrees on 4 & 8 cyl.)

[Doc]

Thanks Thomas. We'll try to check it out.