Kaiser wheels and radial tires

[jsgmpeek]

Howdy,
It seems that my original 15" wheels flex with the radial tires, causing the wheel covers to creep and eventually fall off while driving.
Does anyone have a fix for this problem?  Also is there a "stiffer" more modern wheel that will fit the Kaiser? Thanks for your help. John

[joefrazer]

Chrysler wheels thru the 1970s are the same as KF, except that they, after the late 50s, no longer include the guide pin hole. You can knock off the pin from your drum and use the Chrysler wheels, just make sure they're not too wide and that the hub hole is the same...a few are larger. Ford also used the same bolt pattern for many years but the center hub is larger so they're not recommmended.

To keep the caps on, bend the grip edge on the cap out a bit and then put a little masking tape on the edge for extra bite surface. It's worked for me.

[dpledger]

I used to have this problem with non radials too-switching to radials didn't seem to make anything worse. Didn't later 54 models have some sort of stop on the wheel to prevent this? Seems I've seen such. Bending the tangs out will help for a while anyway. As covers got harder  to find I resorted to putting a stop under the valve cap that would prevent the cover from flying off if it disengaged. Of course it made an awful noise and you had to stop and remove it, but at least you didn't lose or wreck any covers.

[KWZ]

Have you considered stock bias-ply tires?  I run correct tires on all my vintage cars and have never had a problem and enjoy the correct, "pillowy" ride.  Repro tires are made from modern rubber and do not have some of the same issues tires had back in the day.....  Just a thought.  I know some people swear by radials.   

[Gordie]

I run original bias ply tires on my old cars too and if you drive them like it was intended you will have no problems.  You don't have to worry about bias ply tires losing the treads either like on radials.  I put radials on my 1965 Mustang convertible and was not pleased at all with the wishy-washy handling.  I've never lost a wheel cover while driving my '51 Kaiser.  You can get the proper 4 1/4" wide whitewalls with bias ply tires but not with radials.  Everyone has their own opinion about tires.  I have some bias ply tires that are thirty years old but I would never keep radials on my car over seven years after having two Michelin radials lose their tread damaging my fenders on the Mustang.

[GA Kaiser]

I use clear silicone sealant on the hubcap tabs and they do not fall off or creep.  Do not make a continuous line of sealant or else dirt, sand, water get trapped inside.  The radials ride very nicely, but the slow speed turning (in parking lots) is heavy.

[Fid]

Just my two cents on this - I always run bias ply on my cars and they're fine.  No problems.  Now I have to say that I do not drive the cars every day, or take them on long trips so for my use, the bias ply are just fine. They last 15,000 - 20,000 miles and I don't drive that much in 20 years so they probably won't wear out in the time I own the car. 
If my cars were in every day use, I may feel otherwise but for what I do with them, I can't justify the cost of radials.
I will conceded that everyone I know who has them says their car rides much better.

[joefrazer]

Have you priced bias ply tires lately from places like Coker? 7.10x15 whitewalls are almost $200 apiece. I can see why folks are leaning towards radial tires...at half the cost!

[Logan]

I run bias ply as well.  Mine came with the car and I have no idea how old they are, but they have lots of tread left.  As for the hubcaps, I'll tell you the 'secret' Larry Barker told me.  First, bend the ends of the tabs out so they are perpendicular to the pavement when the caps are installed on the car.  Next, hold the cap in your lap in the position it would be in if it were on the car, i.e. straight up and down with the outer (convex) side pointing at your stomach.  Now take pliers in your right hand and hold them parallel to your chest.  Grab the end of the extension part of the tab, i.e. the metal part that connects the tabs that contact the wheel (the ones you already bent straight up) to the hubcap, with the pliers and pull up and slightly towards yourself.  Rotate the hubcap around and do this with each tab.  They should now all be bent slightly up and out on the right edge.  I used to have hubcaps fall off, but have not once since I tried this.  Sorry for the complex explanation, it would be much easier to just show you.  If I get the time maybe I'll take a few pictures of myself doing it and post them.  Good luck!

[jmxkf1]

In addition to bending out the serrated edge on the wheel cover, which grabs the inside of the wheel, I've also used that earthquake(or museum) putty on several spots to keep the wheel cover from creeping.  The hardware store sells the putty in small sheets.   But, be sure and use metal valve stem.