Author Topic: Using Synthetic Oil in your Kaiser  (Read 5363 times)

boatingbill

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 495
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: Using Synthetic Oil in your Kaiser
« Reply #15 on: July 30, 2011, 12:40:37 PM »
I've never used synthetic myself, but I have been told by others that when they switched  to a
synthetic oil on a vintage car, that had oil leaks. It seems that synthetics would leak where conventional oil did not. Maybe this is due to gasket material used years ago, but why create
another problem?

Jim B PEI

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 442
  • People want simple answers, even if they are wrong
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: Using Synthetic Oil in your Kaiser
« Reply #16 on: July 30, 2011, 10:00:36 PM »
I respectfully disagree; there is more than price involved. If you have an old car that has been using dino crude oil, a change to synthetics with an un-refreshed engine tends, so common responses say, to there being more leaks/heavier leaks. Why, I am unsure. Common refrain from people, though. If there is a leak, synthetic will find it.

HOWEVER, if you are using a flat tappet engine, it is absolutely essential after a rebuild during an extended break-in period, and very recommended at any other times, to either use an oil, which is certain racing spec oils like Valvoline VR-1 with the right proportion (50-50) of zinc and phosporus in the correct concentration (approx 1400 ppm)  OR to use a supplement such as ZDDP with regular oil. The flat tappet engines need a sacrificial layer to avoid excess wear, and that is what the zinc & phosporus provide. (Also, it is similar to people and bones, in that when people take calcium, you need to take magnesium at the same time in order for the calcium to do you any good, and to be absorbed.)

Similarly, with my turbo diesel Volkswagens, they need an extremely specific formulation of synthetic oil for the 'family' of engine, whether VE, PD, or CR, which costs me $10 a litre plus tax, and it is one item that you simply cannot skimp on without coking your turbo. Even a formulation that is correct for a 2003 is dead wrong for a 2006 and wrong again for a 2011. Gas turbos require different formulations too.

I don't skimps on my turbo diesels, and I don't skimp on my Studebaker and Kaiser engines for those reasons. Everything else with modern metallurgy and design and without a turbo gets whatever is cheapest this week

KF
49 Kaiser Special Glass Green, Saskatchewan new
Studebaker
64 2dr 170-6 auto Astra White Commander Special
63 4dr Wagonaire 259V8 o/d Blue
57 4dr 185-6 auto Glendale Green/Turquoise
57 4dr 185-6 o/d Glendale Green/Turquoise W6 clone
lawn art
57 Stude 259V8 auto. 56 Panhard

pnw_oldmags

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1284
  • Personal Text
    • View Profile
    • CircleKF Website
    • Email
Re: Using Synthetic Oil in your Kaiser
« Reply #17 on: July 30, 2011, 11:37:22 PM »
Thanks for every ones comments, opinions and facts.  The twelve quarts of Synthetic Oil I bought several months ago are going to be used in my john deere tractor over the next 6 years.  I purchased 10 quarts of 10-30 Quaker State and did a double oil change on my 53K.  Also drained the Transmission, Overdrive and Differential and gave them new 90 W Gear Oil.  Bet it had been 30 years since these had been refreshed.  Thanks again for this interesting read.  My final conclusion.  If it aint broke don't fix it!!   ;D
« Last Edit: July 30, 2011, 11:40:20 PM by pnw_oldmags »
Jim Betts  LM6945
PNW Traveler Editor
CircleKF Webmaster
https://circlekf.com