I respectfully disagree; there is more than price involved. If you have an old car that has been using dino crude oil, a change to synthetics with an un-refreshed engine tends, so common responses say, to there being more leaks/heavier leaks. Why, I am unsure. Common refrain from people, though. If there is a leak, synthetic will find it.
HOWEVER, if you are using a flat tappet engine, it is absolutely essential after a rebuild during an extended break-in period, and very recommended at any other times, to either use an oil, which is certain racing spec oils like Valvoline VR-1 with the right proportion (50-50) of zinc and phosporus in the correct concentration (approx 1400 ppm) OR to use a supplement such as ZDDP with regular oil. The flat tappet engines need a sacrificial layer to avoid excess wear, and that is what the zinc & phosporus provide. (Also, it is similar to people and bones, in that when people take calcium, you need to take magnesium at the same time in order for the calcium to do you any good, and to be absorbed.)
Similarly, with my turbo diesel Volkswagens, they need an extremely specific formulation of synthetic oil for the 'family' of engine, whether VE, PD, or CR, which costs me $10 a litre plus tax, and it is one item that you simply cannot skimp on without coking your turbo. Even a formulation that is correct for a 2003 is dead wrong for a 2006 and wrong again for a 2011. Gas turbos require different formulations too.
I don't skimps on my turbo diesels, and I don't skimp on my Studebaker and Kaiser engines for those reasons. Everything else with modern metallurgy and design and without a turbo gets whatever is cheapest this week