Question for FID

[MikeZ]

Hi FID,
I got some part numbers for brake hoses for a 51 Henry J. from a reply to shawnshenryj that you posted.

According to NAPA the part number for the front hoses isn't a NAPA part number.

The part numbers for the front hoses were posted as: NAPA 105-1049 or Wagner FC-10491.

NAPA says there are to many numbers for their part numbers.
Can you check you info and let me know?

Also, do you have any NAPA part numbers for steering linkage, tie rod ends, idler arm etc. for a 51 H.J.?

Thanks for your help. I hope to ask less questions as I go along.

PS,
I made contact with Terry Zeug. It turns out he has moved to Camarillo, where I live.
I am planning on getting together with him this weekend to check out his parts.

Thanks again!!

Mike



 

[Fid]

Hi Mike, no problem with answering questions on here, that's what it's for.
I think those numbers came from an old parts list someone in the club gave me years ago.  In any case, I installed a new front hose on my '53 J in 2002 and I saved the box. I thought I got it at NAPA but its a "Raymold 455784" it may have been Red Rooster.  I know NAPA can measure them and cross them to their catalog too so if you have a bad one, bring it in to them and they should be able to do that.  That's how I found a rear hose for '52 Henry J, the rear one is a NAPA 36091 if I didn't mention that already.
The Wagner 10491 was one I got on ebay, not NAPA but I'm surprised NAPA cannot cross-ref it. It was in an old box so...   I see there is a vendor on ebay who sells complete sets but they're out of South American somewhere and I really want to trust my brakes so I'll stick with NAPA. Of course, the ebay ones could be just fine too - you never know till you try .
As far as tie-rods ends and steering parts go, I don't have any NAPA numbers for those. I think there was a Ford pickup that used the same tie rod end - Terry would likely know that.  Otherwise, Kanter auto in New Jersey may have them. Their website is www.kanter.com
Let me know if you need anything else.

[MikeZ]

Thank You for all your help and your quick reply!! What a valuable resource. I remember my Dad having a tough time getting information about Henry J's even back in the late 50's and early 60's. The computer age has changed a lot of things. This website is for sure one of the good changes!

The guy at NAPA was also surprised that he couldn't cross reference with Wagner. I'm really lucky there, our local NAPA has a guy that's into old cars and he's old enough (about 45) to have a lot of skill at what he does.

I will copy your post and take it to NAPA with me.

Thanks again,
Mike

PS,
I was just working on the old boy (Henry) and am surprised how much it differs from my memory from 50 years ago. I can't imagine why! I think I was getting it confused with other old cars Dad and I used to work on, on top of the 50 year thing.

For instance, I didn't know that there's no port to adjust the brakes. It's got a cam arrangement adjusted by a 3/8" nut. I don't know if it was different on models later than the 51. Also the hub and the brake drum are one part. I'm sure you already know all this, but, it surprised the Hell out of me!

[Fid]

Very true about the hub/drum.  The adjusting cam is the same on all Henry Js and I believe all post 1950 Kaisers. I'm not yet 50 myself but I've worked on KF cars my whole life and I wish I would've had a resource like this too way back when. Good luck on the brakes. 
Also, you need a big wheel puller to get the rear hubs off and be carefull not to mushroom the axles on the end.

[MikeZ]

Thanks for the update on the brakes.
Wheel pullers are kind of expensive to buy. I sure hope I can rent one somewhere!

Another question for you:
I mentioned on my original post that I don't seem to have a lot of oil pressure.
I thought the problem may be the way the aftermarket gauge was installed but that doesn't seem to be the case. It had a lot of air in it. I rerouted it to get rid of the air and I still have the same condition.

I have zero pressure at idle. If I rev the engine to about 1500 rpm it goes up to about 20 lbs.
Either you told me or I read it elsewhere that I can add shims under the pressure relief valve spring on the oil pump. Will that help any at idle? About how much should I shim it?

A buddy of mine that knows a lot about old cars says that low oil pressure at idle usually means bad rod and/ or crank main bearings. Supposedly the bottom end of the engine was rebuilt a few hundred miles ago. I have the receipt but haven't taken time to look at it yet.

As usual, thanks for your help.
Mike

[Fid]

Hi Mike, sorry I didn't reply to this way back!  KF engines have very low oil pressure at idle, that's normal. Most of them I've seen behave as you describe.  Yes, worn bearings will cause low oil pressure but if the bearings, especially the rod bearings, are worn you'll get engine knock.  The rod bearings knock pretty loudly whereas main bearings will be a low pitched metallic knock which is most noticeable when you accellerate.  If you have bearing knock, you will know it.  The pressure relief valve mainly effects the car at higher rpms. You can stretch the spring out, however, the shop manuals recommend changing the tension by adding shims because if you stretch the spring out too far, it's very difficult, if not impossible to shrink it again. The pressure relief valve allows oil to bypass the pump at higher RPM so that you don't have too much oil pressure when driving in higher speeds. If it opens too soon, pressure will go low. The purpose of the shims is to put more tension on the valve so it takes more oil pressure to open it so yes, it will mainly effect the oil pressure at higher RPMs.  If you make this adjustment, you can use washers as shims. How many? It's hard to say, trial and error might be the only way to know for sure. Put two in, if it's now too high, take one out etc. Hope this helps.