Author Topic: Oil type  (Read 4406 times)

Kaiser man

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Oil type
« on: February 05, 2013, 07:41:30 PM »
What type of oil should i use in my 1948 kaiser special?
I read that it takes SAE 20 but i cant find it anywhere
So I need to know what type of oil other kaiser owners use
Thanks
« Last Edit: February 05, 2013, 07:44:11 PM by Kaiser man »
1948 Kaiser Special-Work in progress(when done it will be a daily driver)
1977 Jeep CJ5(daily driver)
1997 Ford Taurus(daily driver)
Have a couple more junk worthy vehicles from the 50's-70's

joefrazer

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Re: Oil type
« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2013, 09:05:54 PM »
Has the engine been rebuilt? If so, use a 10W-30 oil of good quality. KF engines used an oil with a zinc additive that has been almost entirely removed from today's oils. Quaker State is one of the few that still has more than trace amounts.

If the engine has not been rebuilt, use a 30W oil to help maintain an even oil pressure.

kaiserfrazerlibrary

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Re: Oil type
« Reply #2 on: February 06, 2013, 11:25:33 AM »
I ran this through the Lubrication people at Ford when I was Resident Engineer on the Duratec V-6; I even got on of the company experts based in Cleveland to be guest speaker at the fall 2010 Midwest Division meet.  Jim is correct about Quaker State still having the zinc trace in it (as far as I know now) and a multi-viscosity will work (go with non-detergent if you can) if the engine is rebuilt with new valves, seats, piston rings, etc.  If not 30 works in the summer and warmer weather (I used it in my cars when I had them) but if you don't go down to 10 in the winter (cold climates only) the car will probably not start before the battery wears.  Now I am at GM doing the Gen V (including the new 6.2L engine for the 2014 Stingray series Corvettes)

darrin145

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Re: Oil type
« Reply #3 on: February 06, 2013, 02:12:53 PM »
Valvoline racing oil is what I use in mine (all 37 of them). It has extra ZDDP and friction modifiers, with reduced detergent levels. No more "broom stick" camshafts for me!

Gary.

Kaiser man

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Re: Oil type
« Reply #4 on: February 06, 2013, 05:40:11 PM »
Has the engine been rebuilt? If so, use a 10W-30 oil of good quality. KF engines used an oil with a zinc additive that has been almost entirely removed from today's oils. Quaker State is one of the few that still has more than trace amounts.

If the engine has not been rebuilt, use a 30W oil to help maintain an even oil pressure.
So can a non rebeuilt engine use 10W-30 or does it have to use   30W   and would penzoil be good to use
1948 Kaiser Special-Work in progress(when done it will be a daily driver)
1977 Jeep CJ5(daily driver)
1997 Ford Taurus(daily driver)
Have a couple more junk worthy vehicles from the 50's-70's

joefrazer

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Re: Oil type
« Reply #5 on: February 06, 2013, 07:02:42 PM »
A 60 year old KF engine would be better off running on 30W. With worn bearings and loose tolerances, you want a heavier oil circulating at all times. 10W-30 is too thin at startup and you'd run the risk of accelerating the wear.

Any quality oil will work in a KF engine, but those mentioned have a higher concentration of zinc, an additive that older engines need.

pnw_oldmags

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Re: Oil type
« Reply #6 on: February 06, 2013, 09:58:32 PM »
If I can find 30W VR1 Valvoline Racing Oil ... Is there any reason not to run it in an older engine?
Jim Betts  LM6945
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Logan

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Re: Oil type
« Reply #7 on: February 06, 2013, 11:24:05 PM »
What's the advantage of using straight weight, ever?  If you want a thicker oil, wouldn't 20w50 be a better choice?  Also, what's the advantage of using non detergent?

darrin145

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Re: Oil type
« Reply #8 on: February 07, 2013, 11:32:05 AM »
Valvoline VR1 is available in straight 30 and is sold by NAPA and others. I have used it in many older engines with no apparent problems. I see no real reason to use a straight weight oil, it's what was available decades ago before multi-vis oils came to be. I run heavier oils such as 20/50 in the higher performance engines like the dual quad 409, the supercharged Cobra engine, etc. If you want a bit thicker oil, you can always add STP oil treatment which has ZDDP and a "viscosity index improver". A non detergent oil will not loosen up as much sludge or other crap you may find in an older (not rebuilt) engine. There are many opinions on oil, I just use what has worked for me. The cars I have here spend most of their time sitting, but get the best of care.

Gary.

boatingbill

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Re: Oil type
« Reply #9 on: February 13, 2013, 04:56:59 PM »
I strongly recommend that you start your KF product on a regular basis and warm the engine up
completely. You should do this on a year around basis even in the Winter. This would be every
two to three weeks and allows the engine to lubricate itself thoroughly. Having said that, do not
use straight 30w in the Winter as it gets thick and gooey. Use a straight 10w or 10w30 to allow
lubrication on a cold Winter start. I do believe that 30w is  correct in the Summer to keep
oil pressure up on hot days. If you read about inboard/outboard Marine engines, they  used oil procedures as described above. I always did this with my inboard boat motors and never had engine
troubles unlike many fellow boater in slips near mine.

Aeroman

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Re: Oil type
« Reply #10 on: February 13, 2013, 11:42:38 PM »
Shell's Rotella T makes a great Non-detergent 30 weight that many old car guys around here use. I cannot attest to zinc content though. I know O'Reilly Auto Parts carries it and 5.1 quart jugs will be going on sale soon.
Rick Kamen
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1954 Willys Aero Eagle "Old Toby"
1964 Ford Econoline panel van
Once owned 11 other Willys Aeros and a Willys wagon, 2 Kaisers, 1 Henry J, plus Studebakers, Hudsons, a Nash and others.

kaiserfrazerlibrary

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Re: Oil type
« Reply #11 on: February 14, 2013, 10:08:57 AM »
Rotella was considered ok for older engines--including K-F by the Ford Motor Company lubrication expert stationed at the Ford engine plant I was at before getting moved to GM at Tonawanda.  I went from the Duratec V-6  to the new 6.2L engine going into the Corvette and the 5.3L engine going into the new trucks and cross-overs.

xkssfrank

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Re: Oil type
« Reply #12 on: March 20, 2013, 06:34:51 PM »
I have used Castrol 20/50 in all my old cars, except when I rebuild an engine, then I run 10/30 because everything is new and clearences are tight. IMHO 20/50 is better for the con rods and mains on older engines where clearances are looser. Have not had any problems with it.  But then I usually drop the oil pan and clean it out when I buy an old used car. I add ZDDPto oil if it needs it. Mobil 1 is good for winter, doesnt get thick but my cars are put away during northern winters

xkssfrank

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Re: Oil type
« Reply #13 on: March 21, 2013, 03:50:01 PM »
this would be Castrol GTX 20/50