practical assistance & advice needed for a discouraged Kaiser owner

[709karl]

Where to start?  I have probably one of the nicest original 49s left on the planet. But, a considerable amount of work & $ have gone into it...about all that's available now. Well, the car overheated (another story) and froze two valves. One, I got freed up. The other is frozen like a ...'s you know what.  With the manifolds off, still can't free the thing.  Obviously, would like to avoid pulling the head as my aging back is advising against it.  Suggestions yet fellows. Now the bad part. THe machine shop guy says that even if freed, it will bind again without resurfacing the valve guide/valve.???Of course KF part # XXX is req'd to remove the guide and The l956 tool to remove the valve itself + a back brace for me. Any tools for rent, loan, realistic advice.Will the valve really be destined to freeze again? Thanks fellow gearheads, I'm ready to have the fanciest flower planter in history,   Thanks Karl

[carsngolf]

Having a bad back myself I can sympathize.  Do you have a young male relative or neighbor you could hire for the muscle work?  You could supervise while he did the wrench twisting.  As to the stuck valve, you already have the hard part done toward pulling the head IMO.  All that's necessary now is to drain the radiator and engine and then unbolt the head.  Of course, some of the head bolts might be a problem but it's impossible to know until you try.  If you do get it off, I'd suggest using new bolts which you can get from a fastener supply house.  Use Grade 8, not cheap stuff.  Hard to say about why the valves stuck (broken springs?) but if you pull the head, I think it would be smart to grind the valves.  I found an auto machine shop to do them for my car and then got the machinist to bring his seat grinder to my house for a nominal fee.  You can also have the guides reamed at the same time.  I doubt it would cost $500 total for the whole job and you'd be able to sleep nights.

Good luck,

Jerry Weiland

[hollenway]

If the car was still running I'd suggest PB Blaster and Marvel Mystery oil down the carb while the engine is at about 1/4 throttle.   Since you already have the manifold off and the engine was quite hot, it's probably in your best interest to do the head gasket.  Once you have the head off soak the devil out of the guide and valve with PB blaster and use a pair of channel locks on the valve to rotate it.  90% of the time the PB Blaster will do the trick......   If this fails...... well then your friend is right... it's time to do some major surgery.   I run Marvel Mystery oil in all of my K/F products and it really helps with this problem.
 
Best of luck and keep us posted on your misery !!!!

[709karl]

UPDATE: thanks for the interest guys, did the mystery oil soaking trick and it didn't budge the sucker, I've resigned myself to removing the head and even found a vintage valve spring compressor...but, according to the machine shop, the guides and valve surfaces will cause future binding if not corrected. I am also resigned to 2 new valves  & guides to prevent this but leads to the problem of a tool to remove & install the guides.  I've never worked on flatheads before and the manual leaves a vague image of what the tool is like. suggestions?  I still think the Kaiser might make a nice submerged flower box!

[carsngolf]

Have you consulted with an automotive machine shop?  Even though your car is 50 years old I think you'll find these Continental engines were used for many, many years in other equipment such as Jeeps, lift trucks, Checker Cabs, military equipment, etc.  Parts are commonly available and the engines are dirt simple.  You can even buy a complete rebuilt through an ad in the K-F Monthly for $2,000 or so.  Removal and replacement is a relatively simple procedure. Compared to a V-8, you have a minor problem.  Keep your chin up! 
Jerry Weiland

[709karl]

update...Thanks for the support guys. I stopped feeling sorry for myself, tightened the belt, and pulled the head...simple. A guy from the local machine shop is going to come over & put in two new valve guides and I can go from there.  I'm now back in enthusiasm mode and things should move ahead ok.

[84RabbitGTI]

Just make sure you tighten the head and manifold bolts to proper spec and in the proper order!  It's probably best to take them off in the reverse of installation also.  The metal after all these years gets very brittle and is getting very difficult to replace. Generally you torque the bolts from the middle outwards, but consult the manual to do it right.  Recheck the torque after you have run it for a while, like 500 miles, as they loosened up alot on mine.  It's a simple engine, but still requires a gentle touch sometimes!  Remember that above all, the objective here is to have fun!  My secondary justification to myself is that I'm preserving a piece of history for the next generation!