Rusty bolt removal

[BobWolterbeek]

When the exhaust manifold on my Henry-J broke I found another one on a Henry-J that had been sitting in the woods for 15++ years. After spending many hours trying to unbolt it's manifold a friend suggested I try using CorrosionX to loosen the bolts. So, I sprayed them heavily, let them sit for 15 minutes then sprayed them again and let then sit for another 30 minutes. Then to my surprise I was able to loosen the bolts with a small wrench. CorrosionX is a penetrating anti-corrosion fluid that works on corroded and heavily rusted connections. Try it, you'll like it

[Gordie]

Thanks for the good tip.  It is nice to find something that works!

[Tom]

Nice tip, thanks

[kfnut]

I went by the auto parts store to get it but they had never heard of it . Where did you get it ?

[BigDave LM6174]

Where did you buy it?

[Doc]

You might try Kroil.  Kroil is produced in the Nashville, Tn area and I have used it to free locks, bolts, valves, and pistons Comes in a spray can or gallon container.   http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

[BobWolterbeek]

I buy CorrosionX at the local hardware store, but if you can't find it at a local store you can buy it on-line. Google it.

[JoeKeys2010]

I've used Kroil before.  good stuff.

[dusty]

I found a very good substitute , mix 1/2 automatic transmission fluid and paint thinner, place in a squirt oil can and go to work it does wonders and very cheap.

[Corsairdeluxe]

I try most everything that comes along... I always come back to KROIL.

[retired wrench]

  The flaming wrench works every time, just be careful of collateral damage.

[Fid]

I tried Corrosion X on the rear manifold bolt on Edgar's Henry J. Soaked it for a week  - sprayed it on every day. Wrung the stud right off and had to pull the engine. Seems there's no magic bullet when it comes to rusted manifold bolts.

[Corsairdeluxe]

I wrung off the rear manifold nut on a 4 cyl. The company I worked for had an extensive tool room and I borrowed a right-angled drill. I was able to drill and retap in place. I was a bear but possible.Since then I will do most anything to avoid touching an exaust manifold nut!

[r1lark]

As retired wrench noted, a torch is always a last resort if a nut won't back off with reasonable force. Heat the nut red hot, and let it cool. Works well on exhaust headpipe bolts too.

I'm used to seeing brass nuts on intake/exhaust studs on Studebaker inline engines, and on the headpipe studs too. They are much more forgiving.

[Fid]

r1lark, that's how I got the original nut, which is kind of an odd-ball size, off the broken stud. Heated it as hot as I could with a propane torch (won't heat like acetylene). I don't think you can get a torch into the area where it is on a 6 cylinder Henry J - it's tucked back in that alcove on the firewall and it's difficult to even get a wrench on it. But yes, heat will do the trick!