'53 Manhattan Oil Pan

[shadetree77]

I've searched through the service manual and the supplement and can't seem to find the exact procedure for removing the oil pan on my '53 Manhattan. Looking under there it doesn't look like it will come off unless I remove the suspension components that are in the way. Can anyone lay out the exact procedure for oil pan removal or point me to the correct page of the service manual?

[84RabbitGTI]

I've read where it can be done, but the best way is to simply pull the motor.  Unfortunately.

[joefrazer]

Removing the oil pan with the engine in the car will require you to:
- Remove the clutch/torque converter inspection cover
- lift the front of the engine an inch or two. This means removing the front engine mount bolts and lower radiator hose. You may also have to remove the small battery ground strap.
- Remove the tie rods from the idler arm.
- Loosen and drop the oil pan. You'll then need to reach into the pan and remove the cotter pin that holds the oil pickup screen in place.

You should then be able to slide the pan back and down from under the engine.

Its not easy, but it can be done.

[shadetree77]

Wow. I was afraid you were going to say something like that. I don't have a choice though. Got to clean that sludge out of there. Thanks for the help.

[boatingbill]

I dropped the pan on my '51 Kaiser and did not have to do all that. Is the '53 procedure different
that the '51? Mine is a manual shift. I removed the tie rod ends and the bell housing inspection cover
and the pan came off. I had to rotate the engine until the crankshaft weights cleared the front of the
pan. Sounds difficult, but it wasn't.

[shadetree77]

Not sure as this is my first Kaiser but I can tell you that I'm still struggling through the process. Mine is a Hydramatic car and the cover WILL NOT come off with the oil pan still in place. I've got the pan and the trans. cover loose and I lifted the engine about 3 inches so far and still nothing. I figured I'd try to wiggle them out before taking the tie rods loose. Didn't work so I'm in the process of taking the tie rods loose. It also looks like I'm going to have to detach the arm that goes from the drag link over to the steering arm. Lot of trouble to get an oil pan out!

[boatingbill]

Yes, all 3 tie rods under the pan must be dropped, but other than that I don't believe the engine must be
raised. The back of the pan must be lowered enough to shine a flashlight on the crank weights, so that the pan can be pulled back slowly, You must rotate the engine pulley in front a 1/4 turn and then look again under the
car to see if the front weight has moved enough. I did this alone, but it is easier if some one else turns over
the motor as you look at the crankshaft and pull the pan back. It took me three trips from under the car to get
the weights just right for the pan to clear and come off. If you don't rotate the pulley after that, the pan will go
right up and to the block when you want to put it back.

[shadetree77]

Finally got the pan off (photographic evidence below)!! I had to buy some pickle fork attachments for my air hammer to get the tie rods separated. Not enough room under there to swing a hammer. Once I removed the two tie rods and the steering link and lifted the engine 3 or 4 inches I was able to swing everything out of the way and slide the pan off. I did have to move the crankshaft to the right position just like Bill said.

My next question is about the gasket replacement. I noticed that the pan gaskets seem to go under the front and rear filler blocks and the manual says they must be removed. The manual also says that when re-installing those filler blocks "a new cork gasket" must be used. I'm not seeing a gasket for the filler blocks in the exploded engine view located in the same chapter. I don't think I got anything like that with my oil pan gasket set either. It came with the two side gaskets, the two rubber end gaskets, and some rope seals. I'm assuming the rope seals are for the rear of the crankshaft. Can someone that has re-sealed their oil pan enlighten me here as to what is needed and any tips or tricks as to the process? I didn't know oil pans could be so complicated.

[boatingbill]

I bought a Fel-Pro OS-5449-C Gasket set at NAPA. It has everything you need. I cleaned the pan
surfaces with paint thinner removing any grease. Then I put in the rope seal in the filler block and
then sprayed the gasket surface with Permatex gasket sealer and put in the rubber filler block
gaskets. Wait a half hour for the gasket sealer to set up and re-install the filler blocks. Then I glued
the pan gaskets, waited again and put it together. Gluing the gaskets keeps everything in place.

[shadetree77]

Bill,

Did you use the tack spray or the copper gasket spray? I've never used the spray. I've always used the red stuff in the tube.

[boatingbill]

I used the tack spray as it allows plenty of time to move and align the gasket.