Engine Won't Start Now

[shadetree77]

Think I have just about decided pulling the engine and trans. is the way to go. Not only will it allow me easier access to everything, I can go ahead and thoroughly clean the engine, trans, and engine compartment while it's out. Few more questions for you Jim:

Does the transmission cross member need to be removed or will the Hydramatic clear that on the way out?

I know you have to slide the driveshaft out of the trans. Does the other end of the driveshaft need to be disconnected from the rear end or will it pull out of the trans. while it's still connected?

While I've got the Hydramatic out, are there any relatively easy seals to get to that I should go ahead and replace? I really wish I had gotten to test the trans. before now. That's really going to suck if I do all of this work on the engine, get everything back in, then find out my trans. is toast.

[dpledger]

The crossmember is not removed prior to engine/Xmission removal. Just unbolt the rear supports from the crossmember and it should all slide out. The driveshaft is best removed from the car prior to engine extraction. In principal one  could leave it in for removal but it would be a pain and it will have to be removed for re installation anyway so remove it and simplify everything.

The rear seal (driveshaft) should be replaced. Beyond that unless you have a known problem sleeping dogs should be left lying, unless you want to overhaul the whole unit. Given the condition in which you found the engine, I would opt for an overhaul.

[joefrazer]

The hydramatic is generally speaking a bulletproof transmission. With clean fluid and proper adjustment they will outlast an engine several times over. When you drain the fluid, check its color. Fresh would be a bright red, older fluid will be darker. Anything real dark or black is indicative of overheating and clutch wear. The pan can be removed and should be to inspect the filter (can be cleaned and reinstalled) and the pan for any stray bits from inside the transmission itself. Some grey sludge is to be expected...that's the steels and clutches wearing and would be normal. Heavy deposits would indicate a worn unit that should be rebuilt.

Unfortunately, one of the seals that leaks most is the front pump seal. For some reason known only to GM, it's installed from inside the case so if it is leaking the only way to replace it is to tear the unit down. All that for a $10 seal. My 54 has 314K on the clock and the only reason I rebuilt the transmission was to replace that seal. Otherwise, it would still be doing its job with what I was told were the original parts.

[shadetree77]

Thanks for all of the great advice guys. It helped tremendously. I spent 9 hours straight in the garage today getting everything ready for the motor and trans. to come out. With the exception of the hood it is ready to go. I have to get someone to come over and help with the hood.

Jim, I had the trans. pan off once before and it looked pretty good in there. Fluid was a bit dark but not too bad for being vintage 1974. There was a small amount of material in there but not a lot. I cleaned the filter and put a new gasket on the pan. While I have it out I'm definitely going to put a new propeller shaft seal in. Probably going to pull that side pan and put a new gasket on that too. As for the pump seal, I had to do one of those in the Dynaflow on my Buick. It involved taking the torque converter apart and removing it. The seal was a metal clad round type that you pressed in behind the converter. I'll check my Hydramatic manual but if the job is similar I might go ahead and do it while it's out.

Thanks again for the help guys. I'll update whenever I can get someone over to help me with the hood. Maybe if I provide some cold liquid refreshment and maybe a slice or two they'll stick around to pull the engine too. 

[dpledger]

My hydro experience has been other than bulletproof. I have done more hydro overhauls than engine. The problem has invariably been bushings and sticking rather than leaks. This results in a disinclination to shift when it is supposed to. Once backed up 3 miles because it would only go into reverse (summer day and there was a resulting  engine temp problem.) Anytime I could get my hands on a removed one I would rebuild it. Of course my rebuilt now doesn't much like to go forward after it has been in reverse, but that is a known issue for new and rebuilts, overcome by a bit of revving. So take your pick.

[joefrazer]

The only issue I ever experienced with mine...aside from leaks, was a problem in the 2-3 shift. That's when the transmission is switching from one band to the other and if the clutches are worn, it will either slip or not want to shift. Mine would balk at shifting once hot but would eventually go to third gear. That transmission had 210K on it so I figured I got my moneys worth out of it!