Exhaust leak into the cooling system on a 225 Kaiser 6 Cylinder??

[pjkaiser]

Ok, I have the procedure down.   I just can't read the Head Bolt Numbers for Tightening sequence.   Does somebody have a copy that can blow up that particular area???

[r1lark]

The copy at the posted link will blow up larger that 100% actual if you click on it. At least, it did for me.

Or, if you are using Internet Explorer, go to 'view' in the upper left corner, and you can zoom in.

[pjkaiser]

Ok, I did that, thanks.   It is still difficult to read most of the numbers.

[r1lark]

Here is a jpeg of the head bolt numbers. Does this help?

[pjkaiser]

Thank you, that will work just fine.

[pjkaiser]

Ok, I am ready to order an overhaul gasket set.   I want to pull the intake and exhaust to paint the exhaust and to rebuild the carb, so I thought the overhaul gasket set would work better.   I might even adjust the valves.   I will then repaint the engine while it is apart.   I have the special paint already.

I found two company's selling the same Felt Pro Kit, FS7191S8.   Egge Machine has it for $125.38 and Rock Auto LLC has the same kit for $66.29.    Anyone know why the big difference?

[joefrazer]

Rock Auto buys closeouts and over stock from various manufacturers and suppliers and they buy in volume. So, since they pay less, they sell for less.

I've purchased quite a bit from Rock Auto and only once did I encounter a defective product - which they immediately made right.

[r1lark]

I will second the comments on Rock Auto. Have ordered a lot of parts from them, and have had only one issue and it was quickly taken care of. Significant savings over even the discount chain parts stores.

[rialto]

If there is nothing wrong with your intake or exhaust gaskets you might not want to dismantle them. The exhaust manifolds are prone to cracking. Good ones are hard to find. Taking it apart may cause a crack.

[pjkaiser]

I want to paint the manifold with cast iron heat paint, so it looks like new instead of all rusty.   I will do as much of the exhaust pipe as I can reach.   It has been taken apart for the restoration 15 - 20 years ago, so I think it should be good.

[ldladyvt]

I just found a service bulletin issued by Kaiser Willys concerning all L6-226 engines dated July 25, 1956. It's KW no. 320 and in part it reads that the cylinder head torque recommended is now 35-45 foot pounds. It also shows that the new recommended sequence had changed.  The picture shows No. 1 through no. 5 remained the same but no. 6 and no. 7 in sequence went to the right of bolts 1, 2, and 3.  The rest of the tightening kept going first to the left of the center, then to the right, and back to the left.  Instead of torqueing down all the left side and then the right side the manual changed to working from the center out evenly on both sides.  I can not post a picture (printer/scanner is down) but check for KW service bulletin #320 dated July 25 1956.  The most important part being the upping of the recommended torque.  Also we asked an engine rebuilder friend about the change and he felt it had to do with the former head gaskets generally were copper faced and now they are not.

[pjkaiser]

I went to the CircleK and couldn't find it.   If you have it would you put a picture of  a copy here?

[ldladyvt]

Here's the copy of KW service bulletin #320 dated July 1956.

[boatingbill]

I would use new head bolts and torque twice. After the engine has been warmed up and allowed to cool re-torque bolts again. That
should due it. Tractor supply type stores sell the correct bolts by the pound. I got all 33 bolts that were the correct grade for about
$12.

[pjkaiser]

Thanks for all that information.  Great help!!!!