235 chevy

[kelgar50]

I'm thinking about starting to work on my 1949 Traveler again.
The reason I stopped working on it is when I got the engine running I noticed if you rev it up it develops a knock in the engine which frustrated me and I stopped working on it for the last couple years and have been working on other things.
So the question is has anybody put a Chevy 235 stove bolt into a Kaiser?
The reason I ask is I have a complete and running 235 and I'm thinking this could be a cheap alternative to rebuilding the 226.
Thanks

[rialto]

It's probably possible but would be a big job. The 235 is longer than the 226 .The exhaust is on the wrong side. You would need a bellhousing  or adapter, fabricated motor mounts etc etc

[709karl]

For all the effort,  seems as you'd go for a nice small block V8

[kelgar50]

If it is going to be alot of work I'm with you might as well do a v8. Which is a option also seeing that I also have 2 of those to choose from.
I have a 327 sitting in the shop and a 1957 Chrysler 354 poly with a Wilcap trans adaptor to put a Chevy automatic behind it, which I have a th350 and a 4L80e sitting in the shop also.
I'm pretty sure a 4L80e would be to long.
But then again I have a 78 camaro front sub that is powder coated and completely rebuilt ready to go in something.
The guy that owned the Traveler passed away and I bought it from his son. The guy that owned the car was going to use that sub on the Traveler.

[kelgar50]

As for the frame swap on to a 65 Polara, my daily driver is a 65 Polara 2 door hardtop  and I don't think I want to tear it down for that....lol.
Besides that it is a unibody so that would not work for a frame swap.

[r1lark]

Kelgar50,

What would your plans be for a transmission if you used the 235 Chevy? What is in the car now - manual or automatic? Does the 235 have a good transmission that you would use?

rialto makes an excellent point regarding the length of the 235 versus the 226. Some accurate measurements from the fan to the back of the head on both engines would be in order here. I would assume that you will maintain at least the same amount of space between the back of the head and the firewall as you have with the 226 now.

Where is the oil sump on the 235 compared to the 226? Having to modify the oil pan for clearance is a real hassle. Also, what side is the starter on - any potential for interference with the steering box? What about installed height of the engine versus the flathead - overhead valve six cylinders are way taller than flathead six cylinders.

Here are things to consider that may or would have to be fabricated: exhaust, front motor mounts, rear mounts if you change transmission, shift linkage if you change transmission, wiring if the generator and starter are not in the same location, throttle linkage, fuel line, as rialto mentioned you will need an adapter if you stay with the present transmission, clutch linkage if you use a different manual transmission, driveshaft length if you change the transmission, possible changes to radiator inlet outlet (position and/or diameter), repositioning the radiator for fan clearance........these are the major potential items, plus many smaller ones.

Understand that I'm not trying to scare you here or talk you out of the swap, but only giving you some items to consider to make an informed decision. I've done a number of engine swaps myself, and they always end up harder and more time consuming than originally anticipated. And I've seen too many engine swaps that languished half complete because the reality set in of how much work it was, or there were major obstacles that the swapper was not capable of dealing with.

Keep us informed, whichever path you choose.

[kelgar50]

Valid points,
I'm away from the house for the week will have to do some measuring when I get home.
I know for the trans for the 235 I do have a Saginaw 3 spd and the engine already has the bell housing.
The starter is on the right side as well as the generator. I have a pair of SS headers for it that I believe will dump far enough back to clear the steering. The oil pan is a rear sump so I should be fi e there.

[boatingbill]

It appears that restro-rods are the direction younger members want to go. Kaiser Bill had a complete pictorial
several years ago on his website about putting a late 60's Nova sub frame under a 51-55 Kaiser with a small
block engine. He cut the frame at the firewall and welded the Nova sub frame to it. Now you have disc brakes,
PS, PB, AC if you want that. It had automatic to eliminate clutch fitting etc. If I remember the front track of the
Nova (space between front tires) was about identical to the original Kaiser, so the outside appearance looked
stock. The farthest I had my '51 was 65mi from home in later years with worries about mechanical failure, so
If I didn't want to be trailer queen, a more modern drive line was on my mind.

[vt2000driver]

the camaro front stub it a good choice for the 49 Linda's 47 has been running on one for many years.  it fits inside the Kaiser frame. BUT please make sure that it will never be a car that is strange because bringing it back can't happen. Linda's is NOW the oldest known. bummer. if you want some pictures email.

[r1lark]

It appears that restro-rods are the direction younger members want to go.

A lot of them, yes. Although there are still more than a few young folks that appreciate the original drivetrains. 

When I first got into 'old' cars in the mid-1980s, the '50s/'60s cars were not that different from the new cars as far as mechanical design. Fast forward to today, and the fuel injection systems, high horsepower from small displacements, sophisticated transmissions, 4-wheel disc, heat/air conditioning, etc, etc, make the '50s/'60s cars look like Model As. Many newer enthusiasts wouldn't think of taking a Kaiser or Frazer or Studebaker out on the interstates. (I'm not one of them, I drive old cars regularly on the interstates.) So, they look at resto-rods as a way to stand out with a cool looking old car and still have the mechanical/comfort advantages of newer cars.

While there are still quite a few folks who scream about "desecrating" historic vehicles when they are modified, I believe it is much more important to keep the vehicles on the road so they can be seen, and can do what they were originally intended to do. Sure, there are some very rare, or very historical, cars that I wouldn't want to modify, but an owner can do what they want with their own car.

My opinion, yours may vary.............

[pnw_oldmags]

I like you comment ...
FYI the link in you Signature line has some extra spaces in it.
Once I cleaned those up I enjoyed the Sky Top Link!

[r1lark]

Thanks pnw!! 

[pnw_oldmags]

Much Better