Kaiser Frazer Owners Club Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: 51kaiser on June 13, 2018, 08:39:21 PM
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Ive finally got around to installing the pump on my 51 Deluxe. I mounted it in the frame rail right at the rear wheel, its plumbed , I'm still fuzzy on the wiring, What I did was grounded the black (-) wire at the frame rail, ran the brown (+) to the toggle switch, where do run the other wire ? should I put an inline fuse?
Thanks
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If the car is a positive ground you have to connect the positive fuel pump wire to the frame. Run the negative wire to the ignition switch to the acc terminal. The pump will work when you turn on the ignition. You should put a fuse in the negative wire. If you want to use a toggle switch and not through the ignition switch then wire it to the negative side of the battery. I do not recommend this. You might forget to shut it off. I also recommend checking the fuel pressure I wouldn’t run it over 2 to 3 lbs it will overwhelm the float at higher pressure and flood. If the pump pressure is to high and doesn’t have an adjustment for the pressure get a pressure regulator holly makes a low pressure one. You will have to block one of the outs, they are built for multiple carburetors.
Hope this helps
Lee
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I really only plan on using it at startup and in vapor lock conditions, do you still think a regulator is needed? As far as wiring, I thought that was wrong to ground the negative but its hard for me to think in terms of positive ground , so I'll reverse that. I would prefer to use a switch and switched power, I don't see a "fuse block" ? Where would I find a switched terminal that " powers up " on ignition?
Thanks
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The reason for the fuel regulator is that some fuel pumps create too much gas pressure and you will end up with gasoline all over your engine compartment which is a situation that you do not want.
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Lee is the voice or words of reason. He did not hesitate at all with his answer which tells me he has experience in this area.
As far as the amount of pressure. You need just enough to counteract vapor lock and cold starts, or starts on hills, rare but possible, which may tax the original equipment. Original equipment worked for years. We only got away from mechanical fuel pumps when high pressure was needed for F.I.
So, 3 psi sounds good. The 6-8 psi you sometimes read about, is for higher performance purposes, such as muscle cars with a 850 cfm 4 barrel. Under high rpm demands. None of which apply to your Kaiser.
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Ok, so fuel psi regulator it is. I have it mounted between the mechanical pump and the carb, hopefully this is ok. Next, I located a terminal that measures 6v with ignition on, ran a wire from that terminal to a toggle switch, the other side of the toggle switch connected to negative wire from pump. One side of switch measures 6v the other side 0 , when toggled on both sides measure 6v. Is anything proposed here improper? The reason I ask is I dont hear the pump running, I thought I should hear something?
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Is it a 6 volt pump?
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YES!
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You should mount the electric fuel pump as close to the fuel tank as possible not between the mechanical pump and carb.
As far as the voltage if connected to the ignition switch you should get 6 volts on one side of the toggle switch to the chassis or positive side of the battery when the ignition is on and the same when you turn on the toggle switch. And no voltage when the toggle is turned off or the ignition is switched off.
Lee
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For vapor lock problems you want the electric pump to push fuel to the mechanical pump.
Is the fuel pump a rotary pump ? You should hear some noise when the pump is working. Check the pump by connecting it directly to the battery just for a moment. Make sure it turns the right direction some pumps will turn backwards if hooked up wrong.
Lee
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If the pump is not below the fuel level in the tank, you are headed for trouble.
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Re: The reason I ask is I don't hear the pump running, I thought I should hear something?
Note, some 6 volt electric fuel pumps will not work with positive ground. I have some like this and just hook the wires up as a normal negative ground, hooking up directly to the battery.
Be cautious too, there are also electric pumps that will not allow the mechanical pump to pump through...they are designed for the electric to work all the time.
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Yes, the pump is located at the rear of vehicle, on frame rail at rear wheel. It is the regulator I was referring to that i located between the mechanical pump and the carb. The pump is e8011, not sure if rotary type or solenoid type, others on this site have said they used this model?
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That is correct should work. Check the fuel pressure at the carb when you are all hooked up.
Good luck.
Ler
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Have contended with vapor lock/intermittent fuel deficiency for a year. Started with an electric fuel pump-only set-up. Installed between the tank and fuel pump on the frame. Have gone to a mechanical pump along with the electric pump for starts, after stop and restart (e.g., gas fill-up, etc.) of more than a couple minutes, and prolonged idling. Not yet convinced the problem is solved, but the car, '54 Kaiser Special, is now very drivable from a fuel standpoint.
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I talked with Carter before I installed one and they recommended a bypass loop around their pump
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Thanks for the help Gents, all in and working. This pump would not run on + ground however, so I ran it directly to the battery with a toggle switch, have a regulator set on 3psi, everything seems to be working fine. Now to tackle the coolant leak, Im off to search threads on coolant leaks near water pump! ( appears to be behind the pump)