Kaiser Frazer Owners Club Forum
General Category => Parts For Sale & Wanted => Topic started by: Doc on January 26, 2019, 09:01:20 AM
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/183653978557?ul_noapp=true
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Probably a reasonable price.
Here's a price list from a plater I used and I was told by my painter he was much more reasonable than another he knows. Price varies according to what they have to start with.
http://www.thechromeshop.com/automotive-price-list/ (http://www.thechromeshop.com/automotive-price-list/)
The guy above did an outstanding job on my parts but does bumpers strictly by eye, hammer work, grinding & filling.
I ended up using these guys for bumpers since they have all the tools, jigs & profiles to straighten bumpers back to the 30's. A little over $800 each delivered, they don't do small parts.
https://www.blackburnwheels.com/ (https://www.blackburnwheels.com/)
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Blackburn does bumpers?
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Blackburn does bumpers?
Yes, they have all the specialized equipment, profiles & and a skilled crew that did a really nice job on mine and a buddy's set.
Ed Cogar is the go to guy there.
His email is : edc@blackburnwheels.com
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Please tell me you are referencing Blackburn in Macedonia, Ohio?
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Please tell me you are referencing Blackburn in Macedonia, Ohio?
Yes.
I'm guessing their bumper operations are a leftover from the chrome bumper era and the wheels are their main product now. It was about an 8 week turnaround for mine. Like I mentioned above, they don't do small parts.
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Good to know...They are only about a 1/2 hour from me and I never knew they did bumpers!
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As of two weeks ago, Blackburn’s no longer does bumpers. They sold that part of the business to an industrial plater.
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Swapped emails with Ed today and the new owner of their equipment does indeed only take industrial orders.
He said Custom Chrome in Grafton Ohio might be worth a try though.
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Custom Chrome quoted $1500 apiece to do the work. I politely declined. We have another plater in town who’s about half that so I’ll try them.
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Custom Chrome quoted $1500 apiece to do the work. I politely declined. We have another plater in town who’s about half that so I’ll try them.
Wow, that's pretty steep unless your bumpers are terribly banged up & pitted. I saw on their site they have a two tier pricing system for leaving some scratches & pits, then for "show quality". Can't help but wonder how subjective that could be, and if it's really meant to steer customers to their top dollar prices.
The bumpers I brought to the Chrome Shop were badly pitted in places and he quoted me $950 when he saw them, and didn't have jigs & profile specs for straightening. At that point I got different bumpers, still bent but far less pitting. Both shops delivered beautiful chrome, it's a shame Blackburn got out of the business.
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Unfortunately the guy in Grafton has always been expensive 😫
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It seems you folk once again need an education on the chrome process
When the plated part is originally fabricated, it is usually a die cast piece made from a Zinc-based alloy (ZA3 grade works the best, ZA10 is virtually unplatable). Even with a high pressure die cast machine (more pusing of the metal through the die than with typical die casting process) the metal flow carries tiny bits of debris, air or "gas" through the die creating sub surface pockets or caverning that can normally only be detected with X-ray or other equipment. Over the course of time, the metal breathes (so to speak) due to the impact of summer heat and winter cold. These pockets try to "escape" so they generally work their way towards the surface. When they break through the metal surface there is little resistance to the microscopic layers of plating process and you get "pitting" each time a pocket breaks through.
Before you attempt to replate a part the piece should be stripped (either chemically or by careful griding by an experienced, trained operator) of the old plating material and down as far as possible to get a smooth surface with no dips or bumps. The good plater will then start the copper buff/copper strike method of plating using HEXVALENT chrome rather than TRIVALENT (the latter works well for things like faucets but does not stand up to the weather and is not the real shiny stuff).
After the copper strike as a base, the part is carefully buffed by an experienced, trained operator. He (or she) gets the copper warmed by the friction of the buffinbg wheel and it can be spread to further smooth out all surface issued and even fill in some of the new pits. After that the hexvalent chrome is attached by electroplating process wither the material is literally bound tightly to the copper base. The thickness of the chrome level is less than an eggshell. The chrome is then buffed out by an experiuenced, trained operator to get it to an agreed to standard for lusture and overall quality. That often is good for at least several years before the chemical reaction I described earlier creates a new crop of pits and you have to start all over.
The EPA requirements on chrome platers (especially those using "hex" chrome) are stringent and ridgidly enforced. Hexvalent chrome is especialy toxic and needs to be accounted for to insure stuff does not get spilled, dumped or otherwise disappears. The cost of maintaining the plating system and the cost of the materials used (especially copper as you have to fill the vat the part is dipped in) continues to rise. The little guys were driven out of the business over the last 20 or so years & the survivors are for the most part platers who do large scale work (like wheels for cars and trucks) because of the cost of making the special brackets and hangars that hold the parts in place during the various stages of the plating process. Like so many things, the unit cost of materials and labor are not all that much but the set-up charges can be a killer.
Jack Mueller
Quality Improvement Manager
Kentucky Decorative Metals (KEN-DEC) October 2000 - December 2006
Customers included General Motors P&A, Honda of America, and Whirlpool Corporation divisions
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Familiar with the process. Yes EPA stuck their nose in it...but still doesn’t change the fact that replating is and has been expensive. Particularly Grafton. Very familiar with him and his work which is damn good.
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Nope, don't need an education. It boils down to a few simple facts, it's an art that few know and fewer shops are interested in doing.
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Might try this mom and pop shop..
I had 8 Kaiser Bumperettes done.. for about 65.00 each.. or 79.00 with tax..
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It seems you folk once again need an education on the chrome process
When the plated part is originally fabricated, it is usually a die cast piece made from a Zinc-based alloy (ZA3 grade works the best, ZA10 is virtually unplatable). Even with a high pressure die cast machine (more pusing of the metal through the die than with typical die casting process) the metal flow carries tiny bits of debris, air or "gas" through the die creating sub surface pockets or caverning that can normally only be detected with X-ray or other equipment. Over the course of time, the metal breathes (so to speak) due to the impact of summer heat and winter cold. These pockets try to "escape" so they generally work their way towards the surface. When they break through the metal surface there is little resistance to the microscopic layers of plating process and you get "pitting" each time a pocket breaks through.
Before you attempt to replate a part the piece should be stripped (either chemically or by careful griding by an experienced, trained operator) of the old plating material and down as far as possible to get a smooth surface with no dips or bumps. The good plater will then start the copper buff/copper strike method of plating using HEXVALENT chrome rather than TRIVALENT (the latter works well for things like faucets but does not stand up to the weather and is not the real shiny stuff).
After the copper strike as a base, the part is carefully buffed by an experienced, trained operator. He (or she) gets the copper warmed by the friction of the buffinbg wheel and it can be spread to further smooth out all surface issued and even fill in some of the new pits. After that the hexvalent chrome is attached by electroplating process wither the material is literally bound tightly to the copper base. The thickness of the chrome level is less than an eggshell. The chrome is then buffed out by an experiuenced, trained operator to get it to an agreed to standard for lusture and overall quality. That often is good for at least several years before the chemical reaction I described earlier creates a new crop of pits and you have to start all over.
The EPA requirements on chrome platers (especially those using "hex" chrome) are stringent and ridgidly enforced. Hexvalent chrome is especialy toxic and needs to be accounted for to insure stuff does not get spilled, dumped or otherwise disappears. The cost of maintaining the plating system and the cost of the materials used (especially copper as you have to fill the vat the part is dipped in) continues to rise. The little guys were driven out of the business over the last 20 or so years & the survivors are for the most part platers who do large scale work (like wheels for cars and trucks) because of the cost of making the special brackets and hangars that hold the parts in place during the various stages of the plating process. Like so many things, the unit cost of materials and labor are not all that much but the set-up charges can be a killer.
Jack Mueller
Quality Improvement Manager
Kentucky Decorative Metals (KEN-DEC) October 2000 - December 2006
Customers included General Motors P&A, Honda of America, and Whirlpool Corporation divisions
would it not be best to put this valuable information in its own thread (titled appropriately--something like CHROME INFO) so that it could be disseminated to all, rather than have it buried in a TOTALLY unrelated thread about '51 Frazer. Maybe, just maybe, this could be useful to a Henry J owner, or a Willys owner, who doesn't give a damn about Frazers and would never read this thread!!!!
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I'm going through this right now with one of my original Zinc-alloy original parts. I now understand why my chromer said this is difficult. Thanks.
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After the copper strike as a base, the part is carefully buffed by an experienced, trained operator. He (or she) gets the copper warmed by the friction of the buffinbg wheel and it can be spread to further smooth out all surface issued and even fill in some of the new pits.
Jack Mueller
Quality Improvement Manager
Kentucky Decorative Metals (KEN-DEC) October 2000 - December 2006
Customers included General Motors P&A, Honda of America, and Whirlpool Corporation divisions
It was this part of the process that ran my bumper estimate so high and made another bumper search economical. To put starting condition in perspective, my 4 NOS bumper guards with poor quality OEM chrome cost less to re-chrome than my pitted hood ornament.
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Where does nickel come into play in all of this??
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It is necessary for a quality chrome plating.
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True...I don't see it mentioned anywhere!?
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Nickle should be plated just before Chrome on quality Chrome Plating. I believe that is what separates quality chrome from just ok chrome.
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That is correct about nickel over the copper and before the hexvalet chrome. However, if in correctly applied, it can affect electrical conductivity when the hex chrome surface goes on. The "binding" of the chrome to the part could get affected.
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Yes expensive - and I think Jack's explanation is for die cast smaller parts. I thought bumpers were not die cast but stamped steel. Can still get pockets and rust damage but not like pot metal. My last experience with chrome is sending rear taillamp housing from a 54 Chrysler New Yorker to Paul's Chrome. Probably 15 years ago. They were bad, those little pimples everywhere. Pauls quoted I think $700 for the pair 15 years ago. I politely declined that and it stuck with me.
Now to be honest I avoid the big chrome era cars. You would think this would make most KF cars more popular! On the slab siders, not much chrome. Stainless grilles on the Frazers I believe. On the 51 Kaisers, not much chrome and that is there is pretty straightforward.
I would make a game time decision on smaller interior items and such and just try to apply as much shine as possible but I understand the show car mentality.