Kaiser Frazer Owners Club Forum
General Category => Henry J & Allstate Forum => Topic started by: pjkaiser on February 13, 2020, 09:33:26 PM
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I just picked up a new addition to my Fleet!! I've heard some of the stories about it and I would like any more information about it that is not in the "Story" I submitted.
I will be going over all the systems in the car before I start driving it.
Maybe someone could decode the VIN Plate?
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Congratulations! One project nearing completion and the next one now in hand :-)
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The car started its life as a regular 1951 Henry J model K514 Deluxe with 6 cylinder engine and overdrive transmission. The original paint was Ceramic Green with Hickory Brown Volts and Burma Vinyl. Because the body serial number tag (a smaller tag than the Body Information Tag) which was located just below the BIT, and there is no post actual car serial number there is no way to place approximate assembly date. Also, there is no SPEC-FO information on the tag, which tends to indicate the "conversion" from 2-door sedan to convertible was done by a prior owner of the car rather than the factory. Based on the SCHED and ITEM number, I would guess the car was built in the early part of September 1950 but the doorpost tag would give that information better.
I am trying to write an article on the place that "modified" cars has in the KFOCI (and it is a favorable one). Can I use the picture you have posted as an example of different kinds of cars that would fall into the modified category?
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The doors are also heavily modified and have no door post tag.
Yes, you may use this car for that purpose.
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This car has been talked about for some time on this and several FB forums. On FB, a fellow purporting to be the seller said he had no information about the car other than it was possibly a factory prototype, which we see is not true. I think the seller was trying to justify his high asking price by fabricating a story.
I'm glad to see someone I know with the car. It deserves to be restored, or at least preserved, as an interesting piece of history.
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I am going through the cars safety systems right now. The car has only 6400 miles and is in relatively good shape for the age.
The brakes just need to be gone through as the front boots covering the wheel cylinders are disintegrating and the brake fluid is crystalized in many parts. It also needs an inner rear axle seal. Of course all the fluids, engine, trans and differential will be changed. Someone converted the car to 12 volts with an alternator. I don't know what gauges work or not until I get everything running again.
The valves need adjusting and the cooling system needs to be gone through. The car runs and stops well, again, considering the age of the vehicle.
I will drive the car as is, once the safety systems are up to snuff as I am getting ready to put my Darrin body on the chassis.
I didn't want another project car. The paint should clean up and the upholstery is what it is. It's a surviver and will get shown as such. It will draw a lot of attention.
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It's a cool car. I'm sure you'll keep us up to date on your progress.
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Here's what almost 70 years of brake fluid looks like!! Amazingly, the brakes worked fairly well. Each wheel cylinder had at least one frozen side. One wheel had both sides frozen, had to pound out innards.
Just cleaning up parts, replacing innards, flushing with alcohol, blow out lines, then new silicone (DOT 5) brake fluid.
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Took off the front wheel cylinders, notice the boots deterioration.
Both pistons where stuck! when I hammered them out, the brake fluid what brown and chunky! Cleaned all up with alcohol and 600 grit sandpaper. No rust in the cylinders themselves. All 4 are back together for the rear axle seals (tomorrow afternoon) and flushing of the lines. I will do that tomorrow and Tuesday. There is no rush after all, I am retired.
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New wheel cylinders are available at rock auto for less than twenty bucks apiece. You'd be further ahead to replace than rebuild.
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They may look nasty but they cleaned up quite nicely, virtually no rust on the inside. They are original, I enjoy fixing things, and I'm retired - all contribute to the reasons why I rebuilt them instead of replacing them. I am not cutting corners, they will work well.
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I drained gas from the 70's out of one of my parts cars a few yrs ago. Smelled like varnish and was the color of coffee.
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I pulled the gas tank because I though I ran out of fuel, there was 2 1/2 gallons still in it. I couldn't tell because the float for the gauge was missing, and someone had taken a perfectly good tank and modified the exit fitting and put in a fuel line that is sticking out the top of the tank in the other picture. There is a lot of debris in the tank, it may be from this hose. I may have to get another tank if the fitting can't be fixed. I will check tomorrow to see it I can get this repaired. I also have a new gauge coming. Will this the new 6 volt gauge work for 12 volt, if not, what do I have to do to into to make it work???
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You can always change it back to six volt as that is a good system that has worked well for seventy years. A couple of the convertible conversions were done by K=F dealers back in the day.
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Use Runtz diode.
https://www.ecrater.com/p/14078911/12-6-volt-dash-gauge-voltage-reducer?gps=1&id=112511193139&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzN71BRCOARIsAF8pjfgrLfh1jC04wka8PlOhBxWAmAvmAFEX1bFGlrNx0hSXIPIGPoap_3oaAiQDEALw_wcB
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Took the Henry J to Donut Derelicts this morning for the first time. It was a big hit. I had many discussions about HJK as well as the original Henry J, which is sitting above the rear seat.
I included a picture of my signage as that is a thread in another part of the forum!
It's good to get out again, they had so many cars, they were parking in the aisles!!
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Looking good!