Kaiser Frazer Owners Club Forum
General Category => Kaiser Forum => Topic started by: DaveF on October 17, 2010, 09:30:40 PM
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Hello; I'm a new club member, my name is Dave and I live in Bellingham, Washington. I purchased my 1952 Kaiser Manhattan 4-Dr. Sedan w/Hydro-matic transmission last summer. In my former life (before marriage) I owned several Studebaker's....... Always liked Kaiser styling. I am now restoring my car and have a few questions.
1. Correct position of radio anttena.
2. Correct position of 'anchoring/attaching' accelerator return spring.
3. I believe I read a post about a vendor who rebuilds hood hinges, please advise.
4. Has anyone experience with replacing generator with a 6-volt alternator?
5. Suggestion for shock absorber replacement.
Your help is greatly appreciated,
DaveF
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I can answer some of these-the accelerator return spring is connected between the bottom hole of the cross shaft (assembly that runs from the carb, down to a bracket on the firewall, and then down to the other side of the firewall from the accelerator pedal) to a hole in a small bracket on the firewall about where the bottom of the pedal is on the other side. If this doesn't ring bells, I can send a pic.
Antennas can apparently be mounted on either side of the car (I've seen many examples of each) on the crest (or just down from) of the fender a few inches out from the intersection with the front door.
Shocks are pretty generally available (NAPA, JC Whitney, Rock Auto, etc. ) Some of these sites list them as being for Kaisers, others (Whitney) don't but list them for Studebakers, with which they interchange. Rudy Phillips also has them.
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Thank you....... Yes, a photo(s) of location of accelerator return spring anchor postion would be helpful. Dave
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Be advised that the 1951 Kaiser and Frazer Shop Manual along with the 1952-53 Shop Manual Supplement will show the spring positions.
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Or I can post a photo of the spring like this one -
(http://home.comcast.net/~ljfid/DSC01571lo.JPG)
Rusty return spring, which results in broken return spring, is common. This is a new one I installed back in '06. There is a "slit" in the firewall that one end (bottom end in photo) of the spring hooks into. The other end goes to the throttle lever as shown.
If you need the spring itself, a #66 from Ace Hardware works well. Same gauge and tension, you just need to cut it to length and form a hook at the end. It looks like this -
(http://home.comcast.net/~ljfid/DSC01579lo.JPG)
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Thank you FID........ Anybody have info on rebuilding hood hinges?
DaveF
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Gabriel shock numbers for KF are 81318 and 82026. It escapes me at the moment which is front/rear, but if you need all four...there you go!
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I replaced my gen..with a single wire pos ground 6v alternator.No regulator needed I'm quite happy with it as it would be simple to put back to stock. My lights don't dim at an idle and with a 6v to 12v converter I can have a modern stereo and cell phone charger.It can be hooked to a modern volt meter....will only read bottom of scale, but you know its working....if you add it to to the converter..it will read normally
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Hood Hinge Re manufacture can be done by:
SMS Auto Restoration Services, LLC
42 Manchester Rd
Derry, NH 03038
1-800-989-6660
info@sms-auto.com
They are pricey but do good work. John
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Thank you club members for your help.
DaveF.
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DaveF: Don't bother with an alternator converted to 6V. If you want an alternator, buy a regular rebuilt 12V GM 10SI Unit (available at ALL parts stores) and switch out all your light bulbs. Use a Group 22 12V battery which is the same dimensions as a Group 1 6V battery. If I am going to the trouble of re-engineering something, I want to use common, readily available components. The alternator that Barnum refers to is most likely a 10SI with a special internal voltage regulator. And he is still stuck with a 6V battery.
I suggest you look at this http://www.flickr.com/photos/k513/4500870321/
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And there is another problem with Barnum's post. Why have a 12V alternator converted to 6V and then have a step up device to run 12V components? .
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The simple answer is the COST and time to convert.It was way cheaper than a generator and regulator. And for that matter done in 35 minutes.At the time all I wanted was to get the car running.As it had been sitting for 15 years.Sure at some point I may go to 12v....but I've driven all summer and have the extra money to put in other things the car needs.