Kaiser Frazer Owners Club Forum

General Category => Kaiser Forum => Topic started by: Wildcat on May 07, 2011, 12:57:35 AM

Title: Lowering
Post by: Wildcat on May 07, 2011, 12:57:35 AM
One more question while I am thinking about it.  What is the best way to lower a Kaiser?  I am talking 2", not frame on the ground low.  I just realized today that it has more ground clearance than a lot of trucks and it kind of looks goofy because of that.  It would really help the overall appeal and bring people around to it, the car is however a pretty big chick magnet ;)
Title: Re: Lowering
Post by: kenneth on May 07, 2011, 06:32:35 AM
 8)Hi, low profile tyres does pretty much,and if you aren't satisfied with that find some springs You can shorten for the front end as for the rear end try some lowering blocs but make sure the drivetrain line up properly or you will kill your u-joints!
Title: Re: Lowering
Post by: porsche1914 on May 07, 2011, 06:36:22 PM
I have a '51 Henry J which is a different body than the Kaiser, but I dropped my J 2" front and rear. I cut 2" out of the front coils and put 2' lowering blocks in the rear. I run 215 60 15s all the way around, they are mounted on Ford Galaxy 15x6.5 wheels. I know there is a difference in the wheel wells, but on my J everything lines up fine and I have no clearance problems.
My J is not in the weeds but I think it looks better lowered.
Good luck with your project.
Don
Title: Re: Lowering
Post by: Kenn Evans II on May 07, 2011, 08:47:39 PM
Check the spring height of the 93 Lincoln towncar  compared to the stock Kaiser and check into air suspension air bags. just an idea.  I think the corvair rear springs may be shorter but can handle the weight and still give great handling.
Title: Re: Lowering
Post by: R-Sargent on May 08, 2011, 11:59:40 AM
The right way is to get 2" drop spindles from fatman fabrications ,that way you can retain your original front coil springs and ride quality. A two inch block on the rear leaf spring works good but you will need to install different length  shocks and u-bolts to compensate. http://www.fatmanfab.com/
Title: Re: Lowering
Post by: Wildcat on May 27, 2011, 06:24:12 PM
So I guess there are greasable joints in car chassis, who knew....
(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/254554_1791099465529_1480912138_31597384_4803381_n.jpg)

(http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/252761_1791099985542_1480912138_31597385_6376332_n.jpg)

Anyways I'm guessing that's the "kingpin" and Rudy Phillips should have some
Title: Re: Lowering
Post by: Fid on May 27, 2011, 07:28:03 PM
The part with the threads, pictured on top, is the suspension arm pivot - not a king pin. King pins have no threads. They hold the steering spindle to the spindle support and allow the spindle to turn.
Title: Re: Lowering
Post by: Wildcat on May 28, 2011, 01:51:04 PM
Rodger that Fid, any idea how it is removed?  I got the taper pin out, but after that....  I am in way deeper on this than I wanted to be, had to cut the shocks out, they were trashed anyways, I think in the 12 years I have been putzing with cars I might have removed one shock the "right" way.  Thanks for the help as always.
Title: Re: Lowering
Post by: Wildcat on June 11, 2011, 05:59:43 PM
Well that was an adventure, but I think it was worth it.  It came down about 2" and it makes a gigantic difference.  Also my brakes work quite a bit better so bonus.  The rear tires are somewhat of a PITA now though, nothing a boot doesn't fix.

(http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/250581_1817930256282_1480912138_31632861_3611520_n.jpg)