Kaiser Frazer Owners Club Forum
General Category => Kaiser Forum => Topic started by: boatingbill on August 19, 2012, 05:15:21 PM
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I just installed the 8v Carter fuel pump this weekend. I have the NAPA part numbers if anyone is
interested. It is not hard to do. Attached is the picture of my '51 Kaiser frame with the pump. If you
have questions, just let me know.
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Given that it is an 8 volt pump and Kaisers have 6 volt systems, what is the pump pressure?
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Sorry, a misprint. This is a 6v pump. I had a much larger printout and more pictures and when I
tried to post it, it locked up my computer. The paragraph you saw I typed quickly with one picture to see if that would work and it did.
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Yes, I would be interested in the part number. I had my 53 out yesterday and it wanted to vapor lock twice while on a trip with several start/stops. And, what hot line did you attach the power lead to?
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Joefrazer, The 14 ga green wire goes to the battery side of the starter solenoid. I keep trying to
post pictures and my computer then hangs.
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Joefrazer, The carter 6 volt pump is a Napa P4259, but it comes with a 3/8 line adapters. You will need 5/16 adapters that are Napa 05705b-104. You must install a fuel filter to keep the pump
warranty in effect. The filter is a Napa 3002. I used a in line fuse holder Napa 782-2001 and a
20 amp fuse five pack that is Napa 782-2062. I ran the pump wire to a dash toggle switch that
is Napa TG6057 and from there to the started solenoid. The fuse holder is under the hood,
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I've had one of those pumps on the Darrin for close to 4 years without a problem. Even after she sits a bit, turn on the key, count to 5, crank her and she fires right up, without using the choke! And, never a hint of vapor lock.
Gary.
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Darrin145, Thanks for the info. Now I don't have to fire it up so often with the pump acting a
a prime for the carb. I should also mention, to install this requires 2 ft. of 5/16 hose and the filter
must be between the pump and the gas tank. Install the fuse close to the starter solenoid to
protect the circuit from anything shorting to ground.
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And I gather those using an electric pump are leaving their stock fuel pump in place, right?
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Yes, the stock pump is still there.
Gary.
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I use Mine to prim. It will start like You run Vehicle Yesterday.
If Vaporlock, You start Pump & then start Eng. When going down the road Engine will start to cool down. Then turn pump Off.
Note: This would be on 90 degree & warmer Day's.
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Joefrazer, This Carter 4259 from Napa is a flow through style. The mechanical works just fine
with the electric pump off or on. In the previous reply with a picture of the pump, I used an existing
hole in the frame that had a clip in it to hold the old gas line. The pump mounts with three bolts,
so you only have to drill two holes and enlarge the original hole a small amount. Again to protect
the entire circuit, mount the fuse holder close to the starter solenoid nut that holds the cable
going to the minus side of the battery.
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You did great, more people need to get the parts interchange catalog, it has all the necessary p/n's and lists what NAPA may interchange automatically. the substitute is AIRTEX, same p/n 6v 5-8 psi with all the hoses and clamps in the kit still has neg or pos hookup. mine is on my Dragon and used only at startup. NAPA price today list 128.36 dealer price 78.39 metal in line filter 9.45 switch 6.45
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What would be the thoughts on using a push button switch in lieu of the toggle switch to turn on the electric pump. Then it would only be on as you needed it.
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What would be the thoughts on using a push button switch in lieu of the toggle switch to turn on the electric pump. Then it would only be on as you needed it.
Good Idea !!!
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Spring loaded (return spring) toggle switches are also available.
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Spring loaded (return spring) toggle switches are also available.
This would also work.
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I was wondering, Has anyone had the Main Fuel Pump fail & run Home on standby ?
I heard You should put a in line hose & bypass Main to do this ?
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If you speak to the experts at Carter, they recommend this as well as a bypass w/check valve at the electric pump.
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Some people say you should run the electric pump only as a boost pump as necessary if you are going run the lines thru the original fuel pump, the reason is if the diaphram in original pump should break or leak it will fill the oil pan with gas. People who want to run the electric pump all the time remove the original pump and put on a block off plate.
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I had an electric booster pump on the 1951 Kaiser Business Coupe. As the gas started percolating and the engine began to sputter I kicked in the switch to feed the fuel system from back by the tank. The flow rate was about 2 psi over the vacuum pump at best performance so I wasn't worried about blowing anything out and worked fine.
NOTE: Unless a fuel pump gets rebuilt to CURRENT component part material standards (can withstand effect of 10% alcohol gasolines), even a brand new in the box pump should be considered useless other than for a core to rebuild with the current component parts. Depending on how much you drive and how long gas sets in the fuel system with the vehicle at rest (engine not running to move fuel through system) you could lose seals in a relatively short period of time.