Kaiser Frazer Owners Club Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Bobm90 on January 13, 2016, 01:07:40 PM
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I would like to know the cold cranking amps recommended for the 6 volt battery in a 1954 Kaiser Manhattan, I can't seem to find that info in the manuals and would like to replace my Battery with the correct one, thanks.
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The standard 6V battery used was a 100 amp hour unit.
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CCP (Cold Cranking Power) was never specified for a battery in K-F or Willys specifications, just case type (Type 1) and the normal range (100 ampre-hour). Recommendation is the higher the better, remembering that 6 volt batteries will drain down faster than the 12 volt type do.
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Thanks for the info Guys. The reason I asked this is because of the slow cranking speed when I first turn the key, weather conditions don't seem to matter, if I hold the key for awhile it will start to spin faster and the engine fires right up. I removed the starter (which was loose) and checked the brushes as well as I could without removing the armature and I removed the nose and cleaned up the Bendix and lightly lubed that. The gear comes out freely and all seems to spin easy no binding. I cleaned up all electrical contacts as well as possible, ground and hot wires as well. After the engine runs awhile, if I shut it down and go for a restart sometimes it spins freely, sometimes it "drags" and if the key is held in the start position it cranks faster after awhile and starts. I changed the oil to 5W30 thinking the old oil might be a problem, added zinc and Lucus oil additive (used to coat internal parts and make things slicker) no difference, I want to drain this and add 30W as suggested by most people. The engine starts and runs OK if I get it cranking fast enough, is this a "Kaiser curse" or is there something I am missing? I think it comes down to engine being "tight" for some reason, intermittent loss of starter torque (which I never heard of) bad internal connection in the starter solenoid, not enough AMPs in the battery (the charge level is fine). With the price of parts I just didn't want to start changing things until I find the culprit and being a guy I don't want to resort to following step by step written directions in a shop manual, LOL. :'(
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Make that all the wires in the starting circuit are of proper gauge, including the battery cables.
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And also make sure that all of the connections are clean and tight.
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Make sure that all the wires in the starting circuit are of proper gauge, including the battery cables.
This is spot on. Many of these cars have had the battery cables changed due to age. If the cables on the car were changed it is very possible that the person who changed them simply bought a set of modern cables for 12 volt cars. These cables are 2 gauge cables and for 6 volt they need to be 1 or 0 gauge. You can get the larger cables at most tractor supply stores.
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Fid is spot on. I too had the cables on my car changed before I bought it. Most people don't
know that the lower the voltage the more current there is and therefore a larger cable is needed.
It's confusing that the larger the gauge the smaller the cable.
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Wow, you guys are really good, I will get new cables of larger gauge first, thanks for all of that detailed info, after 50+years of working on cars I don't think that would have dawned on me, it's true Kaiser owners rule, you're the best . When the weather breaks a little I will try NAPA or find a tractor store for 1 or 0 gauge wire.
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TSC (Tractor Supply Co.) is great for both the cables and 6 volt battery--best price around. I have 3 of their batteries--in my HJ, Darrin and 1952 Ford tractor.
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Re cables I made my own local welding supply store sells welding cable in various sizes by the foot Also had terminals made a good starter cable
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TSC have really raised the price on their batteries. I went to Rural King and got a much better price.
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Battery cables... Between rockauto and Tractor supply ,I have been able to find what I need. In a pinch, remember that boat dealers make on site whatever cable they need when outfitting a new boat. What I have not been able to find is a woven ground cable in 0 or 1 ga.
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and WELL grounded ... 8)
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I have seen woven ground cables on the NAPA site listed under truck cables, I don't know what gauge they are.
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corsairdeluxe
I found braided ground straps here, different sizes, along with several wire sizes.
http://www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/2,2126.html
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Just for everyone's information I explored all of the battery cable possibilities including buying wire on line and making them myself, Rock auto was the winner, they offered 1 Gauge cables all ready made up with the correct ends. The ground wire won't be braided but that is OK for my purposes. These products are made by Standard so comparing them with what was offered on e bay or else where was easy and on Standards web site exact specifications were given, each cable was far less costly than offered else where and I also ordered a new solenoid in case I need it or it could become a spare if not, it will arrive here in 3 days from date of order so Rock seems to offer prompt shipping also. When we get a warmer day I will post on here if changing these items has helped solve my problem and for other people to use as a reference.
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The woven cable NAPA offers is the correct gauge. Just be sure you obtain the correct length as several are offered.
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OK, it wasn't warm here today but it was dry and the cables were delivered from rock early so I put them on and as you guys predicted it spun over much faster, the cables that were on there were very heavy but I can't tell what gauge they were or if there was corrosion inside. I was wrong about the ground cable it is #2 braded but it looks heaver than the braded cable that was on there. This cable had several clamped metal fittings along its length just pick out which hole you need and cut off the extra cable, clever. Thanks again for all the suggestions.
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One hole bolts to the block,the other to the frame.
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The battery cables were for sure the problem, I have done many cold starts with the car now and it cranks far faster than it did before, the old cables must be corroded internally as nothing appears on the outside and cleaning all terminals didn't help, this is the area everyone should check first if they have that type of slow cranking problem, thanks again guys !!
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I have a kaiser that I tried all of the above and then some nothing worked until I installed an electric fuel pump now I put them on all my kf's . I only use it to fill the carburetor and then shut it off. They usually start on the second or third crank no matter if they sat a week or several months.
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Can I ask where you install them, between the fuel pump (mechanical) and Carb. or between the gas tank and the mechanical fuel pump ? Also what brand of electric pump do you use? Are they 6 Volt? I may try to install one but never had to do something like that on any car I owned.
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If you search this forum, you will find extensive threads about electrical fuel pumps.
Briefly, Carter makes one put between the tank and mechanical, with a by-pass loop at the pump location.