Kaiser Frazer Owners Club Forum
General Category => Henry J & Allstate Forum => Topic started by: joefrazer on July 28, 2014, 08:29:51 PM
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I told myself no more projects but once I saw this one I changed my mind. It's a 54 Corsair DeLuxe with 17K original miles and aside from one rusty spot at the bottom of the front fender, it's solid. A near perfect set of seats and door panels as well as a new headliner were included in the deal...I couldn't pass it up. The engine, though out for restoration, runs and it has OD. The car is about 75% complete and what it lacks, I have most of.
Should be Anchor Gray with a Persian Gray Whitman and Burma Brown Vinyl interior.
I will be posting pictures as the work progresses.
Wish me luck!
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Congratulations Jim. Great find. That upholstery is the same as my '53 Corsair Deluxe. The '53/'54 Js have larger seats which are a bit more comfortable in my opinion. This should be a good project. I'm sure you'll keep us posted as to how it is progressing. A '54 is a rare one indeed.
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And the questions begin...
The car came with a driveshaft that I've figured out belongs to a full size Kaiser. I have an NOS HJ shaft that's 60" long. I think that might be a standard shaft as it has the cross style u-joints on it rather than the Detroit style. Can anyone confirm?
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It was actually the non-OD Js that had the Detroit style U-joints. Mainly to reduce vibration/noise from the higher RPM due to not having OD.
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Interesting...both the OD transmission and the rear axle are flanged for the Detroit style joint. I'd rather swap out the flanged ends for yokes and use the cross style joints since they're much lower maintenance units, and easier to find and replace.
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I changed my 52 to Spicer style for the same reason . Lower cost and more availability . It was originally a non overdrive but I wanted overdrive and had the stuff to change it . I never heard that the non overdrive only used the Detroit style . Learn something new everyday . Thanks
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my '51 HJ non-OD came with Spicers
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My '52 Vagabond was a non-OD car when I got it and it had/has cross-yoke type. According the HJ Parts book they went to the Detroit type on the '52-'54 HJ without OD, those with OD still used the cross-yoke type. So yes, the '51s and '52 Vagabonds without OD would have the cross-yoke type. I should have clarified that in my previous post.
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Ok, I've decided to switch to the Spicer (cross) style u-joints on my car. So, if there's anyone out there with a transmission and/or rear axle yoke they'd like to sell, let me know.
And, another question. My car came basically disassembled and I'm coming to find that odds and ends are missing. I have the entire grille but I'm not sure if there's supposed to be something that holds the center bar in place. The 51s use braces but I'm not sure how the 52-up cars hold things in place. Anyone care to post a photo?
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Jim, see this thread
http://kfclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,4494.msg19847.html#msg19847
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A quick update. I've sanded and repainted the floors. The previous owner painted over the original gray so I took it back to it's original color. I know a mat's to cover it all, but I just wanted it right!
I also pulled the dash cover off as the cardboard backer had deteriorated. I'm going to try to use some package shelf board I have to reline the cover. The vinyl itself is in very good shape so wish me luck!
I also went thru the generator and starter...all they needed was cleaned and repainted. I did the same to the heater. By the way, I found a near match for the hammertone heater paint at Home Depot. They sell two shades of gray paint, I used the darker and it's close enough I don't think anyone will notice (but now that I've said that...)
A new wiring harness is coming from Bob McBride...the old one was frayed and spliced several times. I cleaned and oiled the instrument cluster and was fretting about the broken speedo cable with its rusty housing when I realized I had an NOS unit. I have precious few HJ parts so to actually have that was a real find!
And, whoever it was that designed the master cylinder mount should be flogged. If you've never tried to remove one, well, you're in for a treat. Not only did they employ phillips head machine screws, but they put the head end up against the frame. It took some doing, but I got the old unit off the car.
Well, back to it!
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Going thru the same thing with my Allstate, and your right that master cylinder replacement was a real chore.
Looks good.
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Question...is there any particular order to the headliner bows in a Henry J? The liner is out of my car and the bows are all neatly wrapped up in a bundle. I'm hoping the answer is no...
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If I recall correctly the bows have numbers stamped at one of the ends. Number 1 is closest yo the windshield.
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Yes there is an order for the placement. We found this out a few months ago when my Dad had his 52 Henry J done at the upholstery shop, but I am not sure of how to tell which goes where.
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The bows do have the numbers stamped on them near one end . I had to clean mine with a high speed wire brush to find the numbers but they were there . I had two number " 4 " but found out number 4 & 5 were interchangeable . I think the parts book points that fact out
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I just cleaned the ones for my Allstate and I have #1 #2 #3 #4 #4 #5. I sure hope that is all I need to get the headliner in.
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O.K. This got me curious . The parts book shows # 4 & 5 the same on a 6 bow set . # 5 is different from # 4 on a 5 bow set . Jim , yours should be a 6 bow set being a 54 with trunk lid .
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I know I have more than six bows in the set that was wrapped up in the trunk, however, only three were still attached to the remains of the headliner. I've managed to find numbers on three of the bows but have yet to closely examine the others. All have alot of surface scale on them.
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Congratulations, that is going to be a real beauty!
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Found this on youtube...an old HJ commercial.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VfFVBHdtdns&feature=youtu.be
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Got the headliner bows cleaned up and was able to ID each one. The numbers were a bit difficult to locate on a few of them, but all now have fresh paint and have been clearly numbered for reinstallation. Now to find the unobtainium...the clips that hold them in place. I need 12...I have two...so I'm a few short. I'll take as many as I can find, or a suitable substitute.
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My 54 HJ arrived without a drive shaft. I think I have an NOS unit, but I need someone to tell me if that's true. The drive shaft I have is about 61 1/2" long and 3 1/2" wide. It's wrapped in KF cardboard but is, of course, missing the part number.
Will this fit a J, and if so, is this for a standard or an OD transmission?
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Looks like HJ but if it's 61+ inches it has to be for a non-OD car. When I added OD to my '52, I took the drive shaft to a Clutch & U-Joint place to have it shortened. I remember measuring under there and it was 53 1/2" as I recall. Don't take my word for it though, measure yours from coupler to coupler and see. If you give them that distance any machine shop or clutch/trans place should be able to make the length you need. The slip yoke on it will compensate for some range.
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On to the next problem...a fuel gauge sending unit. Mine is, of course, trash after sitting in a half tank of stale fuel for 20 years. Is there a modern crossover...or something that can be modified to work?
Also, a fellow KFer who's resurrecting an Allstate needs a fuel filler neck. Anyone have a spare?
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http://kfparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_97&products_id=243
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Most of the time the only thing wrong with the sending unit on a J is the brass float leaks. I've repaired a lot of them that had just leaky floats. You can usually find the hair line crack, open it larger, dump the fuel out and using an iron (not a torch!) solder it back shut. If it floats in a bowl of water you're good to go.
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Yeah, I saw the unit advertised but I'm trying to stick to my budget.
The unit that came out of my J is junk. The rheostat wiring disintegrated and the end of the arm rotted off. Sure must have been some strong fuel!
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Well, with the warm weather is a desire to get moving on my HJ project. I got the inner fenders cleaned and painted and have the engine degreased as well. I found a pint of green engine enamel that is the correct shade (some of the dark green stuff that Gary Michanek had produced) and I'm going to take it to my local SW guy in hopes he can match it. If so is there any interest from anyone out there in some? I may have some spray cans made as well.
My car arrived with assorted bits sitting where the engine should be. I cleaned everything out and realized there are no fuel or brake lines in place. The brake line junction block was included but isn't mounted. Can someone out there in HJ land take a picture of the block in place? I know it mounts to the frame next to the body mount on the driver's side but I do not know its orientation. I have what amounts to a 2500 lb jigsaw puzzle...with no picture for reference!
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I can send you some picture of e block. I still have my body off my HJ. I also would be interested I the paint.
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Here you go Jim. Let me know if this helps or if you need other pictures.
I'm sure you're aware that when restoring a Henry J, don't make that common mistake that all parts interchange. They do not! And I'm not talking about nit-picky things that may cost points in judging, I'm talking about items that are functionally incorrect. One of the biggest mistakes is electrical items. The '53/'54 J is equipped with Delco-Remy components which means different starter button, and associated wiring. Delco uses heavier wires (and needs them) for a number of connections. Rear view mirror is completely different on the '53/'54 J as is the starter, generator and regulator.
Anyway, I have a '53 here so if you need more pics, let me know.
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Thanks Lowell...that's what I needed!
My car is a Corsair Deluxe and is essentially complete with the exception of stuff like the brake and fuel lines. I have things like a complete new interior in the correct material, a complete dash, a good gas tank...and so on. Bob McBride in FL assembled a new wiring harness and I have a new radiator on its way. The engine is a 6 with Delco electrics and all that is good to go. Now all I have to do it put it together...
By the way, some time ago you mentioned having a few extras like a tail light housing and the like. Do you still have them?
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Joe...
Do yourself a favor and install a remote fill brake reservoir while you are at it. A great improvement over the standard. I think Lowell was able to find a KF kit, if not it is not difficult to make one.
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Thanks...I have one and plan to install it.
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Please elaborate on the "NEW" radiator.
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I ordered a rad from these folks. Here's their ebay listing. Its not yet arrived but when it does I'll post my opinion.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1950-1954-Henry-J-Allstate-Kaiser-Frazer-Radiator-/161699781420?fits=Make%3AHenry+J&hash=item25a60edb2c&vxp=mtr
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Follow up to obtaining dark green engine enamel. The good news is that it can be reproduced. I have a small amount that the guys at Sherwin Williams were able to match. Of course, with the good news must come some bad. It is no longer $20 a pint...the price now is closer to $30.
Is there still any interest?
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Might be... Can you post a picture of the paint on metal?
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I guess I should restate what I mentioned earlier, I just re-read it and it confused me! I have some original paint and the SW folks matched it with their equipment. I don't have any of the new paint as I have to buy it by the gallon and as you can imagine, that is not cheap.
They did recognize that the paint has a small amount of metal flake in it. The amount is about half what you'd get in paint used on the car's exterior.
I will apply some of my existing paint to some sheet metal and I'll post a picture.
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For those interested, here's a sample of the engine green paint. It appears a bit brighter in the picture due to being taken in bright light but it does match the paint on my 54 HJ engine.
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I'm finally making some progress on the J. Yesterday, I pulled the front sheet metal off the car as well as the hood hinges. My goal for next week is to clean and paint the front suspension and frame, clean and paint the firewall, and install the brakes. It's a tall order but I think I can get it done.
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Looks like original motor mounts too.
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Getting more done on the J. The inner fenders have been cleaned and painted and I'm working on the core support now. There must be 10 coats of paint on this thing...it took a half can of stripper just to get it down to the factory layer.
I also came across this - check out the picture. It's loosely attached to the frame just below the body mount. Any ideas as to what it is?
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Jim, on the '53/'54 (and maybe the '52 Corsairs) there is a rubber "cover" that bolts to the frame to keep dust and other foreign matter out of the master cylinder / clutch pedal area. I used to always have to remove it on my '53 to fill the master cylinder. One bolt over a long metal retainer which bolted to the frame. As the years passed and it became more rotten and "crumbly" it would deteriorate each time I removed it till finally, there is nothing left but the bolt and the metal strip "bar", retainer... whatever, that held it to the frame. When we acquired Edgar's car, I see it is intact on there yet but appears the straight metal retainer is missing (you can see the mark on it and the hole where it was) and it reveals it is also fastened by the retainer that holds the harness for the dimmer switch wiring. I am going to remove it some time and use it for a pattern to make a new one for my '53 J as it's just a sheet of rubber. Now you've given me something else to fix this summer! I have looked through the '52/'53 Parts Book supplement but have not been able to find what it is or what it's called (the supplement is not illustrated). Closest I can find is "Baffle" part number 213742.
First picture is Edgar's car. The other two are of my blue '53 J when I was wiring the dimmer switch - you can see the remnants of it on the retainer and under the switch wiring retainer. OK, this is the year to find a sheet of rubber and make a new one! Likely what happen to yours Jim, is same as my '53, the rubber simply rotted away. Also looks like yours may have flipped around sideways.
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Yep...that's what it is! You jogged my memory...the 53 Allstate I cleaned up a few years ago had the rubber boot on it and I recall removing it with much care as it had become brittle with age. I might have the service info on the boot...I'll look for it.
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Service Bulletin #323 dated April 4, 1952 details the improvements to the 1952 lineup. One of them was the addition of the brake baffle - as they called it - on the HJ.
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Thanks Jim! I wondered about this part for a long time. Now I know. As mentioned, I think I'm going to attempt to make one for my '53 now that I have a pattern - that is if the one on Edgar is not too brittle to remove and trace.
Good stuff!
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Thought I'd post an update. I have the front section of the frame and suspension cleaned and painted and today's task was to clean and paint the drums and backing plates and install the front brakes. I was pleasantly surprised to find the rear brakes were new. I pulled the rear drums...they actually came off without too much of a struggle...and found new shoes and hardware. I replaced the wheel cylinders and washed everything down with a cleaner but didn't have to do anything else.
So, all four wheels now have new brake shoes and hardware, new wheel bearings and fresh paint. With any luck I'll get the master cylinder installed tomorrow and the start stringing lines to each wheel. After that, I plan to sand and paint the firewall. Right now it's half prime, half black paint. It should be Anchor Gray.
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Looking good Jim!
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Looks good. Tell me about the rear inner wheel bearing cones. Where did you find those?
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I especially like the hole in the master cylinder cap so you can fill the master cylinder remotely. That was one of the best modifications that I made on my most recent '51 HJ.
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Got the firewall painted today. Next up, install the brake lines and master cylinder.
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It is really starting to come together nicely, keep up the good work and keep us updated on your progress!
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Is the brake picture of the brake assembly the left front? If so, the shoes are on backwards. If it's the right front, all is OK. :)
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It is the right front. Long shoe on the front!
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Today, I got the master cylinder installed on the car and then realized I do not know how the brake line from the frame mounted junction block to the rear wheels routes on the 54HJ. My car had no lines on it when delivered so I have no idea how they route. I figured out the line to the master cylinder since it has a 1/4" port while the other three are 3/16". I also know which ports handle the front wheels and how those lines route - but again, I don't know how the rear line is routed.
Can anyone help?
I've attached a pic from a 51 HJ but I've come to realize that the junction block on the 51s is different and has a different orientation.
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Is a 53 HJ close enough... I have a new set hanging in the garage. I had them made 10 years ago from the originals ... or would you prefer photos from a 52 HJ??
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I don't have my '53 at home right now but I do have Edgar's car here and it's a '53 for all sakes and purposes. I think I posted this already but here they are again. Let me know if this helps.
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Yes, it does. Thanks Lowell!
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Update - the Henry J now has brakes. All of the lines are in place and after fixing a few leaky connections, the brakes work. Tomorrow, the fuel tank and line gets installed. I'm hoping to drop the engine in early next week.
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the Henry J now has brakes
Good news Jim. I found out yesterday that's one thing my '53 J doesn't have right now! I wanted to get it out so I went out and got it started. Good thing I tried the brakes before I tried to move it. No fluid. I filled the master cylinder and still no brakes. Gotta find the leak I guess. Will work on it when time permits.
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Progress report - Of course, like the brake lines, the fuel line in my HJ is long gone. I have the fuel gauge sending unit and tank in place...now I need to figure out how the fuel line routes to the front of the car. I know it runs along the inner frame rail as there are clips in place, but I do not know how the line routes when it comes out of the tank to the point where it drops down to the inner rail. Can anyone help?
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See if this helps. I have pictures of my '52 Vagabond when the engine was removed. You can see the fuel line in the pics. One is a bit misleading as it appears the line sticks up straight where it attaches to the hose for the pump but it doesn't. Let me know if this is helpful.
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Yes, that helps alot! And, I assume where the line comes out of the tank, it just drops and follows the contour of the frame, right?
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Here are a few shots of the fuel line routing on a AACA senior national Henry J.As usual for them it may not be correct ,but it will look good!
Notice how they placed a cloth pad on the lift arms to protect the paint on the frame.
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I'm not home now so I won't be able to take any pictures till I get home on Monday.
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Does anyone have a current part number for a Henry J 6 cylinder muffler?
Or, its dimensions - I might be able to match it to something current.
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Joe, if no one comes up with a number, here is a link to a pretty neat tool that can help you determine the closest available Walker muffler based on configuration, inlet/outlet size, overall size, etc.
http://www.walkerexhaust.com/catalog/walker-exhaust-systems/universal-muffler-dimension-search (http://www.walkerexhaust.com/catalog/walker-exhaust-systems/universal-muffler-dimension-search)
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That would work except that I do not have a muffler. The car came with about two feet of the exhaust pipe attached - the rest of the system is missing.
And, of course, I waited to order a system and all of the vendors who supply them have at least an 8 week back log...
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I got one from Klass Kollection last summer but I have not tried to put it on the car yet. The original header pipe on the Henry J is 1 5/8" dia. The ones Klass Kollection sells are 1 3/4" dia. That pipe is a tight fit. When I installed a new master cylinder on the car this week, getting the old one off and new one on was a bit of a challenge due to that pipe being so close. I'm a little reluctant to install the new one which is slightly wider. I don't remember how long it took them to get me that muffler (you've probably already checked with them) but it might be worth a try.
Muffler $160 and exhaust pipe is $95. You can call 1-800-365-5764. Ask for John.
Kepich Exhaust
- klasskollection
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Thanks Fid but everyone I've tried has a large backlog and won't get to my order until well after the convention. That's why I'm looking for the length, width and height of a HJ muffler so I can try to match it up to something current. I have most of the exhaust pipe and can make up the difference so the muffler is all I need for now.
Of course, there's always a cherry bomb!
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The Volume 37, number 2 issue of the KFOC Quarterly published a HJ part list which was compiled by Jim Brown and Alan Thomas. The list includes the muffler dimensions as "Oval, 7 3/4" x 3 3/4" x 22" if that helps.
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I think Rudy in California has the HJ muffler. :)
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Using this chart ,I cannot come up with an equivalent muffler with 22''Overall oval, offset 1 5/8 inlet and 1 1/2 outlet centered
http://www.walkerexhaust.com/catalog/walker-exhaust-systems/universal-muffler-dimension-search
Front and rear views of Henry J muffler.
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Thanks everyone for your help. I did contact Rudy on Wednesday and he's to get back to me whether he has a muffler. All of the usual parts outlets...Advance, Autozone, etc, carry Walker branded exhaust parts and there's no direct fit but a few that are close. Looking at the pictures of the exhaust as fitted in a J, there's not a lot of real estate to work with so "close" might not cut it. But, we'll keep looking!
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Maybe?
http://waldronexhaust.com/cart/index.php?main_page=shopping_cart&number_of_uploads=0
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Here's what happens when you buy a Henry J - in - the - box. You find that you're missing lots and lots of important parts. The latest...I need to locate a clutch cross shaft support. It's #26 in the attached picture. It bolts to the bottom of the transmission and supports the clutch cross shaft.
By the way, I've located a muffler and there's enough of the exhaust pipe present that I think I'll be able to rig up enough of an exhaust to drive the car.
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I got one Jim. Do you still need it?
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Yes, I do. I checked my parts room and I have a spare cross shaft but no support...of course!
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The first person to correctly tell me what's wrong with this picture, and is attending the convention, will win the coveted Bronze Bust of Lincoln award - something I normally only hand out to graduates of a course I teach as a graduate assistant.
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hard to install the fan on the one on the left
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oops..I got my left and right confused
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THE ONE ON THE LEFT LOOKS LIKE THE WATER PUMP FROM A 6 CYLINDER HENRY J AS THE BOLT MOUNTS ARE NOT IN A COMPLETELY ROUND FLANGE . THEY HAVE " EARS " . THE OTHER COULD ALSO BE A 161 SIX WATER PUMP BUT HAS A SOLID ROUND FLANGE . I HAVE A COUPLE OF THE PUMPS SHOWN ON THE RIGHT BUT HAVE NEVER TRIED TO MOUNT THEM ON AN ENGINE TO SEE IF THE FAN BOLTS UP RIGHT .
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JUST CHECKED THE MEASUREMENTS AGAINST THE TWO AND THEY ARE THE SAME . BOTH SHOULD WORK .
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The hub flange was installed upside down - this throws off the belt alignment and causes fan/radiator interference.
Just another speed bump to overcome in my attempt to have this thing ready for the national!
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Is it possible that one is for a Darrin or Willys F-head? Check this one out - sure looks like the one on the right. Of course that doesn't mean this one was put together right either...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WATER-PUMP-161-SIX-CYL-F-L-HEAD-KAISER-WILLYS-HENRY-J-DARRIN-/221824873093?hash=item33a5caf285&vxp=mtr
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I have a used pump that came off my Darrin engine and it has the flange with the taller side facing up. The one on my new pump was simply installed incorrectly.
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i used this one.... fits and works PERFECT...
Cardone A1C58461
there out now but they were 44bucks
http://autoplicity.com/3719287-a1-cardone-58-461
rock auto has em at 70
amazon has em at 80
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I managed to locate another pump...both Amazon and Rock Auto no longer had any. Rock Auto will rebuild yours, but I don't have the luxury of time.
Here's a picture of the car as it stands today. Once I have the fuel line attached and the exhaust sorted, I'll attach the left fender. From there, we'll get the wiring harness installed and it should run! I hope...
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as of 2 min ago amazon has 1
http://www.amazon.com/Cardone-58-461-Remanufactured-Water-Pump/dp/B000HSLR52/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1436876140&sr=8-2&keywords=58-461
82.66 free shipping
where did you find one
howmuch was it
are there any more there to be had
see edit time below
2 min ago amazon has 1
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The car looks great! I sold my last spare HJ6 water pump on eBay for $39. Sorry I can't help.
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I found one at kanter.com. Probably paid more than I should have but they guaranteed the pump and quick shipping.
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Well, a miracle occurred yesterday. I installed the inner and outer fenders and then the hood and everything fit with none of the dreaded scraping of the hood on the cowl. I had visions of the hood neatly removing the fresh cowl paint but it opens and closes without issue.
Next up...the wiring harness!
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Did you pick one up from Mr McBride??
Great progress!!
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The wiring harness is in and my hat is off to Bob McBride for the quality work he does. Everything fits like it should, the harness has the right connectors in the right places and it lays in the car correctly. If you're considering a new harness, he's the guy to call!
Now, on to the door gaskets. Once again, my car had none when it arrived so I have no idea where the gasket starts/stops. I know it's near the upper door hinge but I'm guessing there's a certain way to install it to keeps leaks to a minimum. Can someone post a pic of theirs?
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As you probably know Jim, the '53 HJ door gaskets/seals are different than the '51s which are notorious leakers. The main difference is the addition of the rubber gasket inside the front of the door sill (top and bottom pictures below).
It's kind of dark in my garage but these pictures are of my '53 J which I believe to still have the original rubber seals.
If they're not helpful, or if you need more pics, let me know and I can move a few cars and back it out in the sun light.
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Interesting. There's another part this car is missing, the door jamb gasket. I have new door gaskets (from Rudy) but he never mentioned the gasket that mounts to the front part of the jamb. I think I have enough to go on to install the door gaskets. Thanks Lowell!
About all that's left to do is to install the door gaskets, front bumper, some grille trim and then a new battery and cables. With any luck, we'll have it running in a day or two!
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Lowell: Isn't there a KF Service Bulletin that describes the improved door gasket arrangement on HJ's? Is it among the Service Bulletins that I sent your way a couple years ago?
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I think it is Service Bulletin 333
http://circlekf.com/sourcesliderb.php?sid=6948&dp=service&yr=all&mk=all&cls=all&typ=SB&mg=all&pub=KF&nbr=333&modID=none&srcID=1022&pag=000&action=go (http://circlekf.com/sourcesliderb.php?sid=6948&dp=service&yr=all&mk=all&cls=all&typ=SB&mg=all&pub=KF&nbr=333&modID=none&srcID=1022&pag=000&action=go)
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That's it Jim B! The fellow who lived just a mile or so from me, made some for his '53 J based on this info.
Here's the picture he sent me. He no longer owns the car, it's in FL now. Yes, the red reflector seen in the pic is not original. That car had numerous modifications but still a nice example.
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Thanks guys for the information. I just checked my car and found the upper and lower holes in the door pillars so at one time, my car had the gaskets. I guess I'll try to cobble something together.
Just to be sure, in the absence of the pillar gaskets, the door gaskets themselves completely encircle the door frame, correct? And the gasket starts laying against the door frame, works down, and ends with the gasket overlapping the beginning by 3 or 4 inches, right? I've only got one shot with this so I want to be sure I get it right!
Also, has anyone installed the 46-18 Steele Rubber gasket as the trunk gasket in a J? In a previous post, it was mentioned that it can be used. If anyone did use it, which way did you install it?
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I just went out and looked at my cars again. My '52 HJ Vagabond has had new weatherstrip installed at one time as is evident by the look of having been shaved with a blade. My '53 appears to be original so I took some pics. See if these help:
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We're getting close! All that's left is to attach the drive shaft, door panels, and dimmer switch and we'll be ready for a test run. Tomorrow, I hope!
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I recall that the door seals do not run the entire length of the door frame. I tries that once and the door flew back at me. Plus, you have to leave room for water to exit the car.
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This is how the doors in Edgar Kaiser's Henry J were done - not original of course but they do not leak at all.
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So...the car is together...at least as together as it's going to be before I load it on Saturday. I still need to find some door panel clips and other odds and ends but right now I have a bigger problem. I cannot get the engine to start. It's getting fuel to the carb and the points spark when they should, but I'm not getting any spark to the plugs. I changed the cap, rotor, points and plugs and still, nothing. I even swapped out the coil but to no avail. Could I have two bad ones? I doubt it.
Tomorrow is another day!
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I'm sure you'll figure it out Jim. One thing that has bitten me more than once is the counter-clockwise rotating rotor. But if that were the case, you'd still have spark, just not when you need it! Also, the '53/'54 J would have Delco-Remy equipment so if an Autolite rotor was used (which I don't think is physically possible) that may cause. Based on what you're saying it should be fairly easy to isolate. Keep us informed.
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Turn the ignition on and lift up the distributor cap. Open and close the points with something non metallic. If the points spark, then the
primary circuit of the coil is working. Crank the engine and see if the rotor is rotating, Then put the cap back on and pull the high
voltage lead out of the distributor cap. may sure you are not touching the car and then hold the lead 1/4" or less away from the block.
Have someone crank over the engine and you should see a BLUE spark to the block. If no spark then the secondary side of the coil
is not working. I would then install a KNOWN good coil and try again. If you now get a spark on the coil wire but not at the plugs. you
may have a cracked rotor that is grounding the high voltage. Follow the steps in order and let us know what happens. I have
chased myself in circles with bad coils and now if I get a bad one it goes into the trash immediately and not on the shelf or workbench.
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Not one to give up easily, I tried swapping out what I thought was a good coil with another. Lo and behold, the J started right up. So, I took boatingbill's advice and pitched the two "good" coils.
Now to get the door gaskets, horns, horn ring, door panels and everything else on the car.
Thanks everyone for your help and advice on the car. I absolutely could NOT have done this without your assistance. This is what makes the KFOCI a great club.
I'll post pics of the "finished" product later today.
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Great news Jim. It's looking great already but yes, let us know how it runs and drives!
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A few pictures of the car as of today. It runs, drives and stops. It might not be pretty, but it's finally together after sitting in storage for the last 20 plus years.
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Looking great Jim.
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Nice work Jim. :) Hope to see it in person later in the week! ;)
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I recently bought a couple of replacement knobs from Rudy for my J. What's the trick to keeping them in place? I tried liquid nails but that lasted one good pull on the choke knob...
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Hi Jim, I installed new choke knobs and vent knobs in my '52 and '53 HJs about 10 years ago. I just used some strong epoxy - I don't remember which brand, but 10 years later, so far - so good.
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A quick update. The engine in my HJ had not been run in a couple years and when I got it to start, it would not stay running without my constantly feathering the gas pedal. I assumed it needed the carb rebuilt since it sat with stale fuel in it for some time. I obtained and installed a new kit but noticed that one part in the carb was not present when I disassembled it. There's a check ball and weight in the kit and in my carb the weight was there but the ball was not. The parts list with the kit says the ball and weight aren't used in all models so I guess my question is, should the check ball be installed in my carb?
I reassembled the carb with the check ball and weight and it does run better but with the choke fully open it still wants to stall. I'm sure I still have some adjustments to complete.
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Jim, every Henry J carb I ever took apart had the check ball in it - looks like a small BB (maybe get them from the Lone Ranger since it's silver). Usually replacing the accelerator pump diaphragm fixes most carb problems, but yes, the HJ uses the round check valve.
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You can not buy these anymore. I used to put them in every carb I had. Best level valve ever made!
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From the "live and learn" section of the Book of Life...it is MUCH easier to install the overdrive kickdown switch and associated wiring with the engine OUT of the car. Of course, I just did it the hard way. I had to remove the floor mat and pedal cover plates and then jockey the kickdown switch down between the firewall, shift arms, and engine and then, reaching thru the opening where the plates were, I maneuvered the switch into the hole in the firewall - not easy with big hands and a small opening. ***Important note*** The kickdown switch used in the HJ is not the same as used in the early Kaisers...I found that out the hard way as well. The switch used in the HJ has a shorter body so it clears the shift arms.
So, the switch and wiring is in place. The solenoid, governor and rail switches are all wired...now all I have to do is find an OD cable assembly. One question...there is a retainer bracket bolted to the rear of the transmission that the cable casing lays in to hold in it place when the handle is moved in/out. In it's proper position under the car, should it be up against the OD solenoid body? It's the only thing under the car that could act as the upper stop for the casing.
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Here's how it looks Jim. I took this pic just before I changed the OD wiring harness in my '53. I've done all three of mine now, all with the engine in the car and I don't recall it being all that difficult. Anyway, there is a bracket fastened to one bolt on the tranny and clamps the cable against the solenoid as shown.
I have the bracket if you need one.
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Thanks for the picture. The bracket is in place on my car but was just hanging. It's in the right place now.
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Ran across this picture today on the web - too chilly to work in the barn!
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great image. Thanks for posting. Looking at the 2 tone paint job on that Henry J and the chrome trim on the side, it looks like 1955 Pontiac chrome trim.
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Both vehicles and the trailer belonged the the late K-F Club member Merrill Williams. Merrill was a construction worker and he added the upper deck on the trailer. The Henry J does have 55 Pontiac trim on the side of it.
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Merrill was also a Hollywood actor and retired to northern California. Somewhere I have a signed copy of his head shot that he gave me probably 35 years ago. He acted or did extra work mostly in westerns in the 1940's and 1950's.
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Wow, Merrill sounds like a really interesting guy! And that trailer is really wild. It must of been slow going pulling it with a 6-cylinder Chevy truck, unless the truck had more power swapped in under that hood :)
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Merrill had several HJ's and Aeros over the years. I believe either his child or grandchild are still a club member.
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I finally got around to installing the passenger door panel on the Henry J. It took three hours to install - because the holes for the panel retainer clips were cut in the wrong place so I had to retrim each one, one at a time to ensure a proper fit.
Now to install the headliner...
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Jim: I always used a cheap, clear shower curtain liner as a water deflector behind the door panels of my Henry J's. Just thick enough to last a few years. I taped it at the top and sides of the inner door just inside the area where the panel fits. Then I would tuck the bottom into the larger open space at the bottom. I would let the bottom hang down until it almost reach the bottom of the inside door space.
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I used a heavy trash can liner as a water deflector. Heavy enough to keep the water out and cheap too!
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Your upholstery looks just like mine Jim.
Alan, I think you need this one -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Other-Makes-Kaiser-Frazer-Henry-J-Deluxe-/322193735666?forcerrptr=true&hash=item4b043e3ff2:g:0pEAAOSwbsBXiWT1&item=322193735666
All vinyl just like another you had
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I saw that one, Lowell. Looks pretty good. Gotta love that all vinyl interior...even the windlace.
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Fid, he sent me pic's of the floor and there are about 6 patches on the DR;s floor. It has been repainted.
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Anyone out there have a set of Henry J rims? I need four - the ones on my Darrin are incorrect and as a result, the tires sit to far out and when turning they will rub against the body.
The first picture is what I have. The second is what I need. If you look closely, you can see the difference in the center contour.
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i have 5
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So, I tried to install the door gaskets supplied by Rudy and I cannot get the door to close. Apparently, the gasket itself is too thick and that's causing the problem. In an earlier post it was mentioned that another user had to shave the gasket a bit to get things to fit and the door to close.
I'm going to take a piece of the gasket with me to Hershey in a few weeks. Several of the big restoration supply houses will be there so I'm going to try to find a thinner version of what I have.
The good news is that the gasket material I have will fit my Darrin so they won't go to waste!
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Jim, the trunk gaskets he used to sell definitely had to be trimmed in order for the trunk lid to close.
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Can anyone tell me the tailpipe diameter for the 53-54 HJs with the 161 engine? My car is without and apparently, two different sizes were available - according to Waldron's exhaust.
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I have two header pipes and two tail pipes On the wall. The ones labeled 6 cyl are 1 1/2. The ones labeled 4 cyl are 1 3/8.
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The header pipes were 1 5/8" diameter. Maybe that's the difference. The parts book lists a different one for the '51 and '52 - '54. I'd like to know what the difference is. The tail pipe is 1 1/2" diameter.
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I knew the exhaust pipes differed from 51 and 52-54 but I figured the tail pipe was 1 1/2 thru the run. I think the exhaust guys saw the exhaust pipe difference and that confused them.
Thanks for the help!
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Does anyone have a current part number for the pinion seal on a Henry J? I've got a leaker!
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victor seal # 49161
autozone part # 5778
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Next up - the exhaust system.
Does anyone have a good part number for a muffler. Also, has anyone found an acceptable substitute for the muffler hanger? When I got the car, it was long gone so I have no idea what's to be there. The diagram in the parts book isn't much help either.
Thanks in advance!
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So, I had both the carburetor and the fuel pump professionally rebuilt. I reinstalled both and when I started the car today, the carb flooded badly. Fuel pressure?
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Can you hook up a gravity feed fuel IV directly to the carb...eliminate the pump to check it running with the new carb to see if it still floods.
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Flooding issue resolved..stuck float. The car runs well and I can't wait to get it back on the road.
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Started the car today and the carb flooded once again. Then, when I shut the car off, fuel continues to drip for a few minutes from the air horn into the carb. I think I'll try adding some gaskets between the pump and block to decrease pump arm travel. If that doesn't work then it's time for a pressure regulator.