Messages

1

Kaiser Forum / Re: 226 not running

« on: January 01, 2010, 02:50:03 AM »

This past summer when I was home on leave my Kaiser would not start. I narrowed it down to what I thought was a distributor problem. I had cleaned the points with emry cloth and was getting ready to replace the condensor. My brother came up that weekend and says let me look at it. He popped the distributor cap and had me crank it. Said it looks like the gap on the points is off, less tha 15 thousandths. Went and got a feeler gauge and a screwdriver and reset the gap to 20 thousandths. Hit the starter button again and it fired righ up. No power at higher speeds could be that your timing is off (another distributor problem) either you are advanced, or retarded to much a timing light and dwell meter help to fix this. I have found that is is something small and overlooked that will stop your Kaiser dead in it's tracks and give you grey hairs trying to figure out what it is.

Fabian Oskierko
LM6279

2

General Discussion / Re: Judging manual

« on: January 01, 2010, 02:30:13 AM »

Jack, I would like to be part of the team.
Fabian Oskierko LM6279

3

General Discussion / Re: Engine re-build kits

« on: December 30, 2009, 01:55:48 AM »

I used a Kanter kit on my 51 Kaiser rebuild. Everything fit perfectly. Just maje sure you get with your machine shop first before you order the kit to see if you will need over/under sized bearings and pistons. Most of thier other parts are garantted for as long as you own the car. I have never had any problems with the quality, serviceability, or workmanship of any of thier products.

Fabian Oskierko
LM6279

4

General Discussion / Re: Found this today.

« on: November 26, 2009, 07:14:46 AM »

Hello,

Nice find, I am living in Germany. I will be in Bastogne Belgium 11-13 December for the 75th anniversary of the Battle of the Bulge memorial march. I can bring some of my material with me if you would like to see them. I own a 47 Kaiser, very similar to the car you have found. Is the car located in Holland, Belgum, or Luxembourg?

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Kaiser Forum / Re: Ammeter

« on: September 17, 2009, 12:12:45 AM »

The 51 Kaiser generator is relatively painless to rebuild yourself. Mark Dierks and I did one in an afternoon on my car. The most difficult part was removing the bushing from the back plate that made us go to the parts store and buy a special tool. NOS rebuild kits and armatures are still available from various members who sell parts. I think I purchased mine from Terry Zueg. I hope this helps you.

6

General Discussion / Re: 51 kaiser engine paint

« on: September 15, 2009, 03:48:31 PM »

Go to www.hirschauto.com they have engine enamels in both brush on and aerosol cans. I used Packard Green 1915-47 it is a dark green virtually identical to the color on 1951-53 Kaiser engines. They also have Kaiser Frazer green, but this is the lighter color used on the 1949-50 engines.

7

General Discussion / Re: engine removal

« on: September 05, 2009, 01:34:36 AM »

Ken,

I have removed and installed engines in 51,52, and 54 Kaiser. I usually do not have a problem. One thing you may want to try at your own risk is to crawl under the car and grab hold of the end of the transmission and help push it forward a little to clear the firewall. Be careful when you do this the engine and transmission weigh about 600 pounds you do not want the engine swinging back and crushing your hand. I usually watch closely when putting in and taking out the engine to make sure it does not hang up on anything. Here are a few pictures from the instillation of my engine in the 51 four years ago. The steering was completely installed, and my car has the bulge in the firewall like Lester mentioned. I did crawl under my car and guide the transmission over the #2 cross member. I was slightly younger, slightly thinner, and the car was on jacks. I hope this helps you.

8

Kaiser Forum / Re: Cylinder Compression Test

« on: September 05, 2009, 12:59:37 AM »

Logan,

The distributor has the bolt that holds the distributor to the mount (the one you loosened and) a clamp with a nut and a bolt on it that may have come loose. I usually loosen them both and grab the distributor with my hand and advance, or retard the timing that way. You can use a 12V timing light , but it needs to be hooked up to a 12V battery for thew light to work correctly. Here is a picture where you can see everything pretty well. I hope this helps you.

9

General Discussion / Re: How do you post a picture????

« on: September 04, 2009, 12:54:23 AM »

Thanks Lester,

After fooling with it some more last night I read another post that said right click on picture in FLICKER to open properties and copy URL from the properties NOT the task bar, and paste in the image insert, works fine now.

This is what I figured out with help and readings of other members posts:

1) Write a Post
2 Click on insert image button dirrectly under italics button
3) Copy URL from properties of picture at FLICKER or other provider (Right click on picture to bring up properties)
4) Paste URL between IMG brackets:
5) Press Post button and view your post with picture

10

General Discussion / Re: New member to site

« on: September 03, 2009, 03:24:18 PM »

I also have a 51 Special that is in the final stages of restoration. I have repaired, or rebuilt almost everything on the car. I probably know a few tricks that are not in the book, or I know someone that does. The club is a great place to get help and assistance.

11

General Discussion / How do you post a picture????

« on: September 03, 2009, 03:19:28 PM »

I already read through the posts, used the insert image button and copied and pasted the URL from flicker get a big RED X in a box. Read another post did the same thing and left a space after the "/" all I get now is a copy of the URL between the brackets. Still no picture. What an I doing wrong? Explain it to me on kindergarten level because I can't figure it out? Anxiousely awaiting the: "How to post a picture for idiots" response from a more compuer literate member!

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Kaiser Forum / Re: Cylinder Compression Test

« on: August 09, 2009, 10:41:00 PM »

When you pull the valve cover you will see from the bottom of the tapet chamber to the top (1) the tapet with adjuster, (2) the bottom of the valve stem (3) valve spring keeprs 2 ea. valve spring, (4) valve guide. The scoring will probably look very shiny, or like an indentation that does not look like the rest of the tappets (Normal wear is a round spot in the center of the tapet from where it pushes tha valve, this is ok) This can be seen at the top of the tappet and the buttom of the valve stem. you will want to look for broken valve springs and keepers. On a 54 Kaiser you may not need to remove the fuel pump sense it sits under the valve cover and there is no vacume pump, but you may need to disconnect the fuel lines. The gaskets are the same, they can be purchased at many places.

13

Kaiser Forum / Re: 1948 Kaiser in Raleigh, NC

« on: August 09, 2009, 06:23:08 AM »

Hello,

If you have not joined the KF club, you probably should. Most of the members are very helpful. I used to live in Fayetville before being stationed in Germany. Mark Dierks is the resident North Carolina Kaiser expert. Mark lives outside of Charlotte. He was my mentor on my 51 Kaiser. Mike Flemming also lives in the triad in Kernersville, he also may have some parts, lots of good conversation, but not much mechanical skill, but he does have a beautiful 54 Kaiser. There is an older gentlemen named William Garrison, he lives in Raleigh. I do nor know about his mechanical prowless, but he does have some parts and several parts cars. for beer, food, and a place to stay most members including myself would probably be willing to assist you. I recently acquired a 47 Kaiser that I am in the process of doing research on, the '47 Kaiser is nearly identical to the '48 Kaiser. My cars are currently living in Savannah Georgia with my father. Let me know if you need any help.

Fabian

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Kaiser Forum / Re: 54 Special Late Model

« on: July 27, 2009, 10:12:06 AM »

There are several eays ways to tell if you car is hydramatic, or overdrive. First look  in the interior on the steering colum there should be a tag if it says N-1-2-R it is hydramatic. If it says K it is overdrive. If there is a clutch pedal it is overdrive. if there is an overdrive handle next to the hood handle it is overdrive.  Go under the hood and look where the steering colum comes out from the body at the shifter linkage, if there is one (1) link with a switch (neutral safety) it is hydramatic. If there are two (2) linkages with a selenoud mounted on the firewall with a fuse it is overdrive. If you look at the frame, if there is a #2 crossmember before the hole in the X-frame it is overdrive, if there are two mouts on either side of the frame before the hole it is a hydramatic. If you manage to find the transmission and it weighs about 60 pounds with a long shaft coming out the front it is overdrive. If it weighs about 150 pounds an looks like a big box rounded at the front with a short fat shaft it is a hydramatic transmission On the engine if there is a clutch with a preasure plate installed it is an overdrive engine, if there is a torque converter installed it is a hydramatic engine. I hope this helps you identify what you have.

15

General Discussion / Re: '54 Early Special engine bolts and accelerator linkage

« on: July 06, 2009, 01:25:28 AM »

There is nothing in the book about retirque, but it is a good idea to do a retorque at 500 miles when you do the break in oil change and then again every 3000 miles. Retorque should not excede 35 ft. lbs, or you run the risk of snapping, or twisting a head bolt. The linkage should not be aproblem if it has not been changed. The choke can be adjusted on the side of the carburator. Factory settings were great back when the cars were new, but I have found that with the timing it is best to make an adjustment and then drive the car to see what works. Don't forget that even with a rebuilt engine most of the components are 50-60 years old. A 54 Kaiser without the Super Charger engaged will do 90 mph. I know I did it in my Dad's car after we rebuilt the engine in the early 90's. Don't tell him that or he might have a Heart Attack!