Needy Henry J.

[MikeZ]

I am installing a remote fill kit for the master cylinder on my 1951 Henry J and need to remove the master cylinder to do so.

There is a pin that connects the brake pedal to the bracket at the cross member and the push rod. That connection has to come apart to get the master cylinder out of the car as far as I can see.
The pin is free at the pedal but is frozen solid on the push rod. So far I have tried everything but heat to get it loose.

I will probably need to find a replacement pin and try to cut it off with a Dremel tool.

I think this Henry J. has set in a field somewhere for years at some time in it's life. Everything I do to it is a struggle!

If anyone has any suggestions, please jump in there!

[Fid]

Are you referring to this pin ?


Or  this pin? (circled in red)


I believe you can avoid disconnecting them by removing the bracket that they attach to. It's held onto the cross member with just two bolts seen at the top of this picture-


I've not done it but it seems it should be possible. Have a look.  If nothing else it might get  you the room you need to drive the pin out.

[Henry's HenryJs]

On mine the lower(pivot pin) is seized, I have it soaking as of now so I hope it gets loose. If not I will heat it up, but it being off the car makes it easier. Henry.

[MikeZ]

Yes FID, that's the one.
I thought I should be able to get the whole master cylinder out as well, but the pin attaches the brake pedal and the brake pedal goes through the floor board. It's a shame it isn't seized on the pedal instead of the push rod. If it was frozen to the pedal I could get it out.
In your pictures, the brake pedal is to the left side of the first 2 red circles you drew. It's misleading since the brake pedal has an offset in it.
 As you can see, the pin goes right through it. The pin has to be driven toward the frame and there is just no room. If I can't find the original bolt, I think I can use a tempered bolt with threads and double nut it. There can't be much pressure side to side since the pin only has a cotter key to retain it.
I think I can get the old pin out by cutting the head off with a Dremel cut off wheel.

Thanks for your input!
 

[Fid]

Ah yes, that is the brake pedal. Not an area where I've had to do much work on mine. If you really needed, perhaps you could lift the floor mat/carpet and remove the panels around the clutch and brake pedal and get at it that way.

[Corsairdeluxe]

Mike Z... is your remote fill kit a KF ? if not would you share with us how the filler at the M.C. looks?just anything in general about your project.It is one that comew up frequently.

[BigDave LM6174]

Corsairdeluxe, he saw my set up that I just did when he came out to our meet a few weeks ago.  I showed him the Wellwood kit you recommended and i told him how I tapped right into the m/c and JB WELD The cap vents.  Here is photo of our cars together when comparing them.

[BigDave LM6174]

Here is the Wellwood kit on my 52 HJ. Red hose goes down to a 1/4 x 1/8 barb that is tapped and threaded into top of M/c.  I added the kf sticker.

[BobWolterbeek]

When the exhaust manifold on my Henry-J broke I found another one on a Henry-J that had been sitting in the woods for 15++ years. After spending many hours trying to unbolt it's manifold a friend suggested I try using CorrosionX to loosen the bolts. So, I sprayed them heavily, let them sit for 15 minutes then sprayed them again and let then sit for another 30 minutes. Then to my surprise I was able to loosen the bolts with a small wrench. CorrosionX is a penetrating anti-corrosion fluid that works on corroded and heavily rusted connections. Try it, you'll like it

[Terry T]

This is a great piece of info.
May I suggest it be re-issued in a new topic, with something like "rusted bolt removal" in the title.
In this fashion, someone in the future, who hasn't  read this current thread, could find an answer to stuck nuts and bolts.

As it is now, this great info is buried in a different/unrelated topic.