Dash Lights, Turn Signals and Brake lights

[JoeKeys2010]

Worked all day on trying to get all the bulbs to burn. I have headlights, brake lights but am fighting the turn signals. I've got the rear of the car working but can't seem to get the front blinkers to work. Using different flashers to see if it makes a difference but it is aggravating. I've got a shop manual and a diagram so I'll be back at it again tomorrow.

The dash lights have never worked. I do have the green blinker lights on the speedometer working and the red high beam light. The map light had power so the bulb must be bad (looks in tact). No dome light yet either.

I think I'd rather scrape grease from underneath than to fool with the wiring.

[r1lark]

One thing I've found (the hard way  ) with old cars is grounding issues. One verification is to make up a long wire with small alligator clips at both ends, and temporarily ground the sockets directly to the battery.

Another head scratcher is poor physical connection between the socket and the contacts on the bottom of the bulbs. Not sure if the spring underneath the contact plate in the socket loses tension over time or what, but a new bulb will sometimes make much better connection with the contacts and mysteriously start working.

[JoeKeys2010]

Thanks Paul. I'm thinking my turn switch is not working properly and like my Ford more than just the turn signals go through it. I absolutely hate wiring a car. My under dash wires are in good shape with a few exceptions. It took me forever toget the green lights on the speedometer to blink correctly. I either got nothing or they both blinked or only the right side blinked.

I've also got a wheel cylinder sticking on the rear passenger side and have to find a puller to get it off with.

[kfnut]

r1lark is right about grounds . I have been troubled with things suddenly not working on my 47 M16 Studebaker truck . Some things worked , others not . After repairing some frayed wiring and tracing wires from the source of power to the items not working I realized all this happened at the same time so there must be a common thread . While sitting in my recliner , where I do my best thinking ,  , when it hit me about proper grounding . I cleaned both ground cables and their connecting locations . Things started working . It was a simple thing that I just overlooked but should have thought of first .

[joefrazer]

Regarding the dash lights, it is due to a worn rheostat. The winding wears and contact is lost. Check your shop manual and look for the wire that runs from the headlight switch to the dash lights. Using a jumper wire, connect one end to that same terminal and the other end to the terminal that is connected to the headlights. Make sure you connect it to the side that is hot only when the headlights are on. This will give you dash lights...they will be at full brightness...but at least you'll again have dash lights.

And, about front turn signals. If you have parking lights, then you should have turn signals. Use a volt meter or lighted probe and with the key on and a turn signal activated, check each terminal junction from the turn signal switch going forward. When the meter or probe quit working, you've found the issue. If you have neither turn signals or parking lights, then the issue is probably grounding. Try running a jumper wire from the housing to a known good ground (positive battery cable) and see if the lights start working. I had to do this on my 50K and ended up adding a small ground wire behind the housing to get things working.

[JoeKeys2010]

Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes.

[JoeKeys2010]

Would changing the car over to negative ground 12 v have any impact? When I wited up the horn I had to switch wires on the relay to get it to blow

[Fid]

I agree that it's most likely grounding issues. Check / clean the surfaces where the parking light bodies mate to the car - cleaning that will likely fix it. The cars are 60 years old, the metal is oxidized and corroded - 12 volt positive ground won't fix that. Get the surfaces clean and connections tight and they work fine. I still have 3 six volt + ground cars and all the electricals work fine on them, the lights are bright and the radios play great.

[JoeKeys2010]

I can make each of the bulbs burn just can't get the blinkers to split like they are supposed to.

[Corsairdeluxe]

Amen on the grounds, especially the turn signals and tail lights. I ALLWAYS individually ground the sockets to a good tested ground.

[JoeKeys2010]

It's got to be a bad turn signal switch. It's not sending power from one side to the other. I can get brake, running lights but not blinkers.

[JoeKeys2010]

Jim you were right on the dash lights. The spring in the switch is broken. For now I tied it to the headlight switch. Maybe I'll get lucky and find a switch.

[AZ_HJ]

Joe I have at least one NOS switch that I would be willing to part with.

I will send you a picture of it when I get home.

[JoeKeys2010]

Thanks. I could use it.

[dpledger]

I had a similar problem recently, which looked like a signal switch. Tracing it through with a VOM I discovered that the lead that supplied the right rear blinker was open at the connector plug from the switch to elsewhere. Rather than replace the plug on both ends I opted for a jumper around the plug from one wire to the other. Fixed the problem. To really figure out what's going on you need to look at the wiring diagram for your car, and then trace continuity from power supply to the lead to each  bulb with a VOM. This way you can verify all connections and find which you need to fix.