how-to question

[DH Comet]

I just got a compression tester and, never having done this valuable test before, I thought I would check some YouTube videos for compression testing a vintage car.  I found a bunch of good videos but with surprisingly contradictory information!  So, given we're talking Kaisers instead of some other, lesser car (!) I thought I would ask the experts (that would be you good people) about what the correct procedure might be:
1.  Engine warmed up or cold?
2.  All plugs out or one at a time?
3.  Main coil lead or ignition lead disconnected?

I think those are the main conflicting points that I've encountered.  I'm looking forward to the test but I'm slightly afraid of the results!
Thanks!

[Fid]

Do you have a shop manual for the '51 Kaiser/Frazer?  It's in the first section of that manual. 
"Test should be done with engine at normal operating temperature...   remove spark plugs.... "  are what it states.

Good luck!

[bellavistafitz]

Warm engine, all plugs removed, ground the coil lead, accelerator to floor while cranking engine, crank engine 4-6 times.

[DH Comet]

This is an interesting indicator of the prevalence of "internet thinking":  I had a question, but it didn't occur to me to consult the primary source, the manual;  instead I went to the internet first, which, as it often does, gave unclear answers!
Thanks!  I'll have a go!

[Gordie]

Just be sure that the ignition is in the off position.

[r1lark]

And as bellavistafitz notes, the throttle needs to be OPEN or it will affect your readings. Make sure the choke plate is open also.

[kaiserfrazerlibrary]

These postings present great information on a significant test of an engine.  Too bad nobody has offered the information for use in THE SERVICE CLINIC department of the KFOCI QUARTERLY.

[DH Comet]

Okay, I still have questions.  They seem like they might be dumb questions, but as they say, if you have to ask, it's not a dumb question!  As stated above, this is a significant test that I've never done before and I like to be pretty clear on what I'm doing first.

1.  "Ground the coil lead"  -  I'm not clear on that one.  It's not mentioned in the manual, and I'm not sure how or where or what to ground.    Manual says to remove the distributor cap.
2.  "Ignition off" - it's a '53, with key starting.  How can I have the ignition off while cranking the engine?  (I know, ground the coil lead!)
3.  Would disconnecting the ignition wire to the coil achieve the same result of eliminating coil operation?

Thanks again!

[Fid]

The point of grounding the coil / ignition off is to make sure there is no spark and the engine  won't start.
If you have the spark plugs out, I'd say there's a pretty good chance the engine won't start.

[boatingbill]

1. Pull coil wire out of coil. (Prevents plug wires sparking to block causing maybe fire or explosion from fumes.)
2. Pull plugs from warmed up motor. (Check plugs to see if they are oil wet or real clean from coolant leaking into cylinder.)
3. Prop open choke plate and throttle plate. (Make sure to use something that cannot fall into engine.)
4. Have someone turn over engine 3-4 times and record each reading.

If all 6 readings are low but similar you have a worn engine. If several readings are very low, then you have a valve problem.

[DH Comet]

Okay, my first compression test went without a hitch, thanks to all your help!
Results were: 1. 110  2. 120  3. 110  4. 100  5. 110  6. 110

[kaiserfrazerlibrary]

The factory shop manual answers your questions on how your compression ratio stacks up.  It is in the Engine Tune-Up section.

[Gordie]

Your engine should run pretty smoothly with that compression.  Not perfect but good.