Author Topic: No spark  (Read 773 times)

Wnero

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No spark
« on: July 06, 2021, 09:58:21 AM »
Hey Folks,1 have a 1953 Manhattan. Her name is Dorothy. Well I think I killed her..
           There is part of the distributor housing that flares out where the bolt goes through and attaches to the head to secure the distributor that is broke. There was a small washer that was put on there to hold the two pieces together but the distributor does move slightly.. So I made a washer  to fit  better and hopefully it would put more pressure evenly on both halves..
            Ok this is where I think I killed her.. I did not know or would not even think that taking that bolt out I would have a geyser of antifreeze shoot out. After that she would no start. Getting no spark but she will turn over. Ok, so this it what I did, based on something got wet and shorted
Out.
1). changed The points and Condenser. Still no spark
2) changed coil. nope no spark.
  So if anyone has any ideas. I am all ears.
                                                                   Thanks
                                                                          Wayne ( the Kaiser Killer ) Nero
     



« Last Edit: July 06, 2021, 10:00:08 AM by Wnero »

kaiserfrazerlibrary

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Re: No spark
« Reply #1 on: July 06, 2021, 03:41:58 PM »
I am not a mechanic but I have done my share of roadside or parkinglot repairs with tempermental distributors.  Here are a few suggestions based on my experiences:

1.  Disconnect the wire from coil to distributor cap at the cap and with someone trying to start the car, tap the electrical part on the engine block or cylinder head and see if you get a spark.  If not, the problem is either in the coil or there is a disconnected/bad wire between coil and switch.

2.  If you do get a spark, put the wire back in the distributor cap and take off #1 spark plug wire at the plug.  Repeat the test procedure in one, tapping the spark plug wire on the block.  You should get a somewhat fast series of sparks reflecting when the rotor hits the #1 contact on the inside of the cap.  If you do not get a spark your problem may be the cap as noted:

a.  Unlike the Auto-Lite rotor, the Delco-Remy/UMS rotor in the delco-remy distributor has a bent piece of metal.  This piece has to make direct contact with the center point on the inside of the cap that the coil wire plugs into.  There should be something there to fill the hole in the cap that actually makes contact with the rotor.  Often these get bent or burnt (looks like oxidation or "burnt") and the rotor is bad. 

b.  If you don't see a piece of material in the inside of the cap's center hole, you need to replace the cap.  That's the way they did it back then.

c.  Check to make sure the cap is properly aligned.  You can install the distributor cap 180 degrees off actual location and the timing and firing order get so screwed up the plugs won't fire at the split-second required because the rotor misses the contact point.

d.  Check all the small wire bits in the distributor base to make sure they are properly connected and tight.  With age, these bits can deteriorate and while look good on the outside, internally the wire strands have broken.

3.  Make sure that the broken base pieces align correctly and the distributor itself is properly aligned (see c above for more on this.   If you want a new distributor base, Kaiser-Willys Parts in South Carolina had them.  You want the base for the 1954 (or includes 1954 model year) 226 engine used in various Willys and Jeep products. 

Again I am not a mechanic but having had 226 engined cars for around 40 years before Barbara and I got the Henry J, I had my share of problems and tried to learn about diagnosis and fixes.  You might also want to consult the factory service training film on the Electrical system of the 226.  While the engine shown is set up as a 1949, the problems and fixes did not change much during the years Kaisers were built.  It is on the CIRCLEKF.COM website and when used with the factory shop manual can be a big help.

Wnero

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Re: No spark
« Reply #2 on: July 06, 2021, 08:25:01 PM »
Thank you Sir for your response and say hi to Barbara for me. The check list is great. Your check list is similar to what I have done. Sometimes you have to back to square one. So far I have done that only 32 1/2  times. Ok I exaggerated a little bit, but it sure felt like it. I am going to check again using your list. A different set of eyes is always good. A couple of things you touched on were interesting though. You mentioned the wire between coil and switch. By saying switch were you referring to the ignition switch. Right? I have thought about but never pursued it. I know Kaiser does not have a fuse box it looks like just of Fusible links. Would there be one under the dash or just the switch. The coil is brand new.
             I Just want to run this by you. I was getting weak spark at the coil but then no spark. Also when I put the new coil on and went to start her, as soon as I turned the key to start her I head a slight pop and once again would not start. The pop could have been anything. I

kaiserfrazerlibrary

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Re: No spark
« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2021, 11:48:43 PM »
Unfortunately I am not a mechanic but roadside breakdowns taught me a few things to look for (including subbing a ballpoint pen spring for the thing in the inside of the distributor cap;  you could go 30-45 mph tops but it would get you home (if not too far away) or to a better place to get help.    If the car turns over strong, odds are the ignition switch will not be a contributing factor here unless the wiring is a problem.    Check the wiring diagram for 1953 Kaisers in the 1952-53 Kaiser supplement to the 1951 Kaiser and Frazer Shop Manual to find where the in-line fuses are at various points in the car.