Master Cylinder

[boatingbill]

While under my '54 Kaiser looking at my front and rear main leaks, I noticed a wet area on the
inside of a front tire. I removed the tire and the grease seal had failed not the wheel cylinder. I
decided to check the Master Cylinder and saw it was low and then looked under the car and
the rubber boot around the rod was leaking. I rebuilt a Master Cylinder on a '53 Kaiser back
in the sixties, but that was a automatic and my "51 is a stick. This requires removing a clutch
pedal shaft and is more involved.  Has anyone done this and has any tips to share ? The
manual just says remove this and that and is very general. The car will be on car ramps. Any
help will be much appreciated.

[boatingbill]

Sorry, It should have said '51 not 54.

[kaiserkid]

When I took mine out, of my 54, I had to use a torch to heat the cross shaft to release the clutch pedal shaft. It is a taper fit with a nut to really hold it in place. After that, not much more than removing a few pieces. I need to do it again because I noticed, after the fact, that the master cylinder did not have the bushing in the bore for the cross shaft.

[84RabbitGTI]

I did mine a few years ago.  It is not fun because you have to take apart so much to get to what would normally be a simple replacement, but if your parts are not too rusted, it should come apart fairly quickly.  Remember to put your brake pedal (or was it the clutch pedal?) back in straight when you reassemble it all.  Mine ended up kinda crooked if I remember correctly and I had to take it apart again to get it right.  Make sure your master cylinder is fit to be rebuilt. Mine was worn out on the inside.

[boatingbill]

84RabbirGTI, How did you determine that your original Master Cylinder was worn out on the
inside ? It is a lot cheaper to use a rebuild kit, but I don't want to have to take it apart again
because the bore it too worn for the seals to work properly.

[retired wrench]

  I never had good luck honing brake cyls on something that sat around a lot (fire trucks ect) if they are daily drivers OK. You determine excessive wear by checking clearance between new metal piston and bore. Sorry I don't remember specs.

[boatingbill]

Rock Auto repair kit says it's a 1" bore, but I don't have a way to check it. It probably would take a
special dial indicator. Because of the effort to remove it, I'll probably buy a new Master Cyl.

[boatingbill]

When I pulled my Master Cylinder our the brake arm was loose where it pivots in the
Master Cylinder. My MC is stamped Wagner and I thought there was a brass sleeve in the
hole for the brake arm. Mine did not have the sleeve. On the internet I see pictures of new
Wagner Master Cylinders and some show a brass sleeve and some do not. If there is
supposed to be one and a new MC does not come with it, where can they be found?

[joefrazer]

Yes, it should be sleeved. The M/C is the same as 49-51 Ford car...I think this one will fit.

http://macsautoparts.com/master-cylinder-bushing-for-brake-arm-ford-only-8a-2470/camid/f50/cp/JS0R3CHL1095955/

[kaiserfrazerlibrary]

Originally, the casting was not sleeved.  However, over time, honing out the inside coupled with the normal porosity of the casting made adding the brass sleeve a good idea.

[boatingbill]

On my dad's '53 the Master Cylinder bound up because the fitting was never greased. He had
all work done at a local service station and I guess they never saw this because of the frame
mounting. We then put a pit in his garage and did all our own work. He never went back to
that service station. All members be sure to grease you MC !