Engine Seized

[carbuff1941]

New to the site and just purchased a 1947 Manhattan that has been sitting for about 10 years with the head removed.  I have put a combination of Marvel Mistery Oil and "Blast" penetrating oil in each cylinder hoping to   free things up.  I have "tapped" on the top of each piston with a block of wood and hammer to help get the mixture in around the rings.  I did this about 2 weeks ago and have had no success with freeing the engine.  My next thought is to put a breaker bar and cheater on the crankshaft pulley bolt but I'm afraid I might shear the bolt.  Any thoughts or help would really be appreciated.

[joefrazer]

Breaking the damper bolt is a very real possibility. If you have some chain, try wrapping it around the damper and then use the cheater bar as leverage to break things loose. The worst you'll do is shear the woodruff key but that's an easy fix compared to removing the broken bolt.

Try filling each cylinder with transmission fluid. It's thin enough to get past the rings but is heavy enough to work slowly and penetrate.

Persistence will pay off!

[carbuff1941]

Thank you, I will give your suggestions a try and let you know the results.  It may take awhile.

[carbuff1941]

I have now added automatic trans fluid on top of the pistons and will wait a few days before trying to turn the crankshaft.  I do have a rebuilt engine that came with the car but not sure about the "fit".  The rebuild has a manifold for a 2bbl carb and the current engine has a 1 bbl.  The serial no. on the rebuild is 800382; I think it is out of a later Kaiser.  Numbers cast in the head are: 31, F800A 624 and WF 8 o 31.  The firing order is 153624.  Does anyone know what all these numbers mean?  Also does anyone think that I could use the single barrel manifold on the rebuild if I can't get the original engine freed up and running.

[joefrazer]

Check the cylinder head on the rebuilt engine. If the word 'Kaiser' is cast into it, you have a 1951 and up engine. If the head looks similar to what was on the stuck engine, then swap manifolds and away you go.

Later engines can be used but the front end plate will need swapped. Also, if the rebuild came out of a car with an automatic, then you'll need to swap crankshafts as well.

[carbuff1941]

Joe, thanks for the info.  There is no Kaiser cast in the head and there is already a clutch installed to the flywheel.  Are you saying the motor mounts should be the same for both engines?  Another item while I have you is that the transmission will go into all gears except 1st.  Any ideas as to why it won't?

[joefrazer]

The shifting issue may be due to the linkage. Sometimes, the shift arm binds at the top of the steering shaft and it won't allow a shift into gear. It's more common when going into 2nd. Lube all shift points and then roll the car back and forth and at the same time, attempt to shift into first.

And, it sounds like your spare engine will bolt in.

[kaiserfrazerlibrary]

On K-F engines, the normal casting number is a 6 digit number that begins with a "7" and pre 1951 model engines do not have "Kaiser Supersonic" or "Kaiser 226" on them. 

[carbuff1941]

I haven't looked for any casting numbers on the block yet; all the numbers I've quoted are on the head with the exception of the s/n located on the driver's side of the block (800382).  Is any information available to determine when this engine was built and for what vehicle?  As I get more into bringing this car back to life it looks as though I will have a number of questions regarding the electrical system as it looks to be a mess right now with a number of wires disconnected or pieces that aren't shown on the wiring diagram.

[joefrazer]

An 800 number would lead me to think it's a Willys block. A picture of the head would tell the tale.

[carbuff1941]

I just looked at the block of the rebuilt engine and found these numbers on the lower pass. side.  At back: A 1, at the middle: X  J 2 W and at the front behind the fuel pump: F600A627.  There are a couple of numbers behind the breather tube for the valve cover but I can't make them out.  There is no plaque on the driver's side boss where it is located on the engine that is currently in the car.  I have pulled the radiator to have better access to the front of the engine.

[joefrazer]

Aside from the F600 number, the rest are all casting mold and other foundry numbers. Check the front motor mount location on your spare engine against those in the car. If they match up, you can swap engines with little extra effort.

[carbuff1941]

Well, I have given up trying to free up the engine in the car.  I have removed the hood and will now begin dismanteling the engine and pull the engine, clutch and transmission together.  This will allow me to clean up the engine bay and replace the "bad" wiring that looks original.  I'm planning on replacing most wiring with no. 14 stranded wire except, of course, for the ground to the battery and wire to the starter which I believe is no. 2 or 0.  Any problem with using a heavier wire than original?

[joefrazer]

Heavier is ok, however, just make sure your splices are clean and soldered, if possible. Otherwise, use a good butt connector or weave the wires together.

Most of the wiring in a KF is 14 or 16ga, the starter cables are 1ga.

[boatingbill]

Your engine may have "thrown" a connecting rod bearing causing it ti lock up. Drop the pan and
look at the bearings. If one has come loose you will see it has has moved from its original position.
This is rare, but it does happen.