I'm in agreement with Lee. I went a step further and disassembled the body into it's separate pieces. I mechanically stripped all the undercoat and cellophane from the backside of each piece, then I applied fiberglass cloth and resin to the backside to seal and reinforce the pieces. This is to strengthen the pieces and seal the underside from moisture and further damage and blistered final paint. I then assembled the body and used epoxy resin and mat along with new stainless fasteners with nylock nuts where the panels joined. Example: the inner fenders to the nose and firewall to the toeboard and floor. Also the crossbar for the trunk and tonneau lids. Basically each joint. Then the body went back on the chassis for alignment to make sure the door channels were level and the doors would fit properly. Example: no large gaps at the front or rear of the doors with an even bottom space. The top surface was then mechanically stripped of the gelcoat and loose resin and fiberglass. The top surface was then recoated with resin and fiberglass mat. The reason for fiberglass mat on the top surface and not fiberglass cloth, is to prevent what is called "print through". That's where the painted surface shows the pattern of the fiberglass cloth underneath. The mat has a soft and random pattern that cannot be seen in the finish. After the resin cured, the body was sanded and given the final coats of filler where it was needed, then epoxy coated, finish sanded, sealed and painted with 6 double coats of hand rubbed acrylic lacquer then clear coated with more acrylic lacquer.That was over 5 years ago and the fiberglass and paint finish is still perfect.
