Exhaust leak into the cooling system on a 225 Kaiser 6 Cylinder??

[pjkaiser]

On the New Head Bolts, Could you give me the part number and brand, this would give me a starting point for getting new ones.  Southern California has very few Tractor type supply stores, so I will have to go on-line for the new head bolts.

[boatingbill]

Measure and old bolt, if I remember correctly they were 3". Get the same steel grading (grade #5 ?) as the old ones. Ordering on
the internet be careful of shipping costs because 33 bolts will be heavy. The ones I bought were anodized for corrosion and had a
slight gold color. They wasn't a part number because they were sold by the pound at the store.

[boatingbill]

I found a old bolt that might be the head bolt. It measured 3" 0n the the bolt shaft not measuring the the bolt head. The bolt
grading was posted on this forum before. That is important as the wrong grade could snap or stretch.

[pjkaiser]

Ok, I removed the head.   Lots and lots of carbon between cylinders 3 & 4.   I have included a picture of that center head bolt with all that carbon.   Many of the cooling system holes were plugged up, some with carbon, others with sludge.

Now I need the torque for the intake and exhaust manifold nuts.

Much cleaning and painting ahead before it goes back together, again.

[Bobm90]

Start at the center and work your way out toward ends, 30-35 ft lbs recommended in 51 shop manual

[joefrazer]

To determine the proper bolt grade, check the head. If there are no radial lines then it's a grade 2 bolt. Three radial lines denote a grade 5 bolt and six lines mean it's a grade 8 bolt. Both my 50K and 54K used grade 8 bolts.

Have you located the source of your leak? If the head gasket was not compromised, then there may be a crack in a cylinder wall. My 54 had the same problem and it took a bright light, some cleaning of the block deck, and a sharp eye to see the crack that formed in the cylinder wall.

[pjkaiser]

The head gasket was blackened on both sides right at that spot and there was soot plugging that coolant hole and all over that head bolt.   I will look for a crack in the block around that spot.   Thanks for that bit of direction.

Also, since all the bolts go into the cooling system, is there something special that goes on the bolts to keep them from seeping coolant or is that not a problem?

[boatingbill]

A tap and die set is relatively inexpensive and you could then clean the treads in the head to get a more truer torque reading on
the bolts. Carbon/corrosion can cause torque readings to be incorrect.

[Corsairdeluxe]

Coat the threads with Permatex # 2. Worked well 50 Years a go.Still does.I coat all engine bolts except the manifold with it .Cleaning the threads with a die and tap is almost a necessity to get the proper torque values.Some of these bolts/studs go all the way through the block into the water jacket and can get really futzed up.

[pjkaiser]

Ok, I found a Tractor Supply Center close to me and went there this morning.   They do indeed, sell bolts by the pound.   I got enough to do the head and picked up a new Neg Battery Cable lead.   I also picked up some other bolts, washers and nuts that I needed, all by the pound.    Thanks Boatingbill!!!

I had to cut the long center manifold bolt to remove the both the intake and exhaust manifolds.   Everything came off with no cracks until I turned it over.   These are heat cracks that do not go through, at least till it's heated up.   There is no indication that those cracks do go through and leak.    I will get them welded up before putting it back on.   THere are a lot of bolts needed to be drilled, re-tapped and replaced before I am ready to put it back together again.   I will also surface both manifolds, after putting them back together again, to make sure I get a good seal.

[pjkaiser]

I separated the intake from the exhaust manifold and this is what I found.   Going to see if I can get these cracks welded.   I have a friend that restored a Tucker and broke a tab off of one of the manifolds and this company he is sending me to did the work.   

More later

[superk226]

I would call Rudy Phillips and get a good used manifold for a fraction of what it will cost to weld the cracked one. That may have cracked because of one of the previous owners drove the car for a long time with an exhaust valve leaking which caused excessive heat in the manifold.

[boatingbill]

I had a similar situation with my manifold. I talked with a restorer and he said to weld it properly you have
to take it to a shop that has a oven to bring the cast iron temp up slowly and then after welding it goes
back to the oven to cool down slowly. Even then there is a 50/50 chance a crack my develop next to the
weld. Mine had been welded before and later cracked. That convinced me to look for a good used one
which I found. It is getting harder and harder to find them do to rather poor quality of the cast iron in
that era.

[pjkaiser]

I have a dilema.   I need to know what Model engine my 1953 Kaiser Deluxe has for the proper valve adjustment specs.

I have included both the Continental Spec sheet and the Kaiser Manual Spec sheet.   Very different Specs and I only want to do this once, while both manifolds are off!!!

[joefrazer]

Use the KF shop manual as your source.