Kaiser Frazer Owners Club Forum
General Category => Willys Forum => Topic started by: 55Bermuda on November 28, 2017, 10:15:48 AM
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Hello to all on this forum. I just joined, because I recently went to a farm in the middle of nowhere Nebraska, and while there noticed a weird grill sticking out of a tree line. The owner said he had driven this 1955 Willys Bermuda 2 door hardtop (with the 226-6 engine and auto trans) into the trees many years ago. He also claimed to have all the parts that had been removed (plus spares) in his barn, a clear title, and if I wanted it all, it was mine for $300! Needless to say, I went home to research what the heck a Bermuda was, and found that there were just over 2100 made with that engine. I went back Sat. with a wrecker, bought the car and all the parts, and it's now safe in my garage, waiting on a full resto. I know the question has been asked before, but does anyone make the 4 lug brake drums? Mine were rusted to the shoes, and had to be beaten off! I am not above a rear end swap or disc brake conversion for the front even. I would like to drive the car once restored, and I am worried I can't find the drums to keep the original brakes.
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Love those Willys hardtops!! Looking forward to progress photos. :)
I "think" 1955 was a low production year overall for the Willys Aeros, but a Willys Aero expert will chime in here, I'm sure.
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I had never heard of a Bermuda until now. I am trying to make it roll first of all! It had sat in the dirt so long, all the brakes were locked up. I was able to pound the front drums off, and make the wheels spin after removing the brake shoes. The rears are not as easy, due to a special pulling tool being needed to remove the drums (which I don't have).
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What a great find! The rear drums are installed on a tapered axle that will require the same style puller used to remove Mopar and AMC drums.
Here's what you'll need (along with lots of penetrating oil and patience) - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Wheel-Hub-Drum-Puller-Rear-Brake-Drum-Remover-7-1-2-spread-3-arm/372135374124?hash=item56a4ff2d2c:g:M80AAOSwVL1WC0rw
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Welcome to the group! Very knowledgeable people in here to help. I bend their ear quite a bit:-)Very nice and glad you rescued it!
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Congrats on your new car!
Drums aren't easy to find, especially the fronts.
Aero, 2WD drive Int. Scouts (front only), Jeep DJ3A and 2WD drive postal Jeeps interchange if I remember correctly. Scarebird in WA State makes a front disc brake bracket that bolts to Aero steering knuckles, Honda Accord rotors match the Aero hub bolt pattern, Chevy S-10 4WD drive calipers do the stopping and fit under stock wheels. If you go the disc route there's residual pressures to get right as well as front/rear proportioning.
Make sure to use a hub puller that bolts tight to all 4 lugs on the rears. I warped and ruined two perfectly good rear hubs trying to get them loose with a 2 lug puller. Ultimately ended up having to source a 4 lug to get them off anyway.
Duane Hayes in CO has several Aero parts cars and he's reasonable, donegoing2002@yahoo.com
Good luck......... and welcome!
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Thanks VERY much for the info. I would love to retain the drums, if I can find a less rare interchange part.
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NOS is almost always best, check around & see what you can come up with. If you strike out someone should have an extra set of serviceable used ones.
Stud shoulders are swaged down to literally "rivet" the drums to hubs. A swage cutting tool, or modified 5/8 hole saw can take care of that. Replacements were made as hub/drum assemblies or plain drums. Drums turn up rarely, I've never seen an NOS hub/drum assembly.
Most importantly, buy a factory manual and a parts book. Both turn up on ebay fairly often, or someone here (or duane) may have an extra set if you post in the "Wanted" thread.
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There is a 9 x 2 drum on eBay. Little pricey. They show up regularly. Good luck.
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I saw that NOS drum on eBay. A little too pricey for me! Saturday I am taking the drums to NAPA Auto Parts. They said the may be able to match them.
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Even though fronts & rears are both 9x2, note that the offset is slightly different.
Post what Napa turns up, guys are often looking for drums.
Also, you can view a factory service manual and parts book at this site, built & maintained by a KFOIC member: http://circlekf.com/login.php (http://circlekf.com/login.php)
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I will take a front and rear from my car, and let them measure them. I will let you know. Thanks for the manual link.
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Hi, we have sent you an email about some parts books we have.
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After using a three-legged puller, and hammering on the rear drums, they finally came off. I never want to go through that again, so I found a Ford Maverick rear end, and will be going to get that for an eventual install! I am also interested in installing the AMC type front spindles, and converting to discs.
After getting under this car, I have also noticed it has holes in the rockers,, rear frame (by the bumper brackets and leaf spring mount areas), in the frame rails behind the front tires, and the body door gaps change when you jack it up from one end or the other! I am sure this is due to the floor and frame holes. The only part that can be easily patched and is soild, is the trunk floor. This makes me question if I shouldn't go Gasser, straight front axle, or gut the floors, and do the Pro Street new frame, V-8, etc. route? Lol.
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The firm WILLYS AMERICA has a website. You may want to check with them to see about drums and other parts if you can't find them anywhere else. They are located in California.
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I will check them out. Thanks!
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.................After getting under this car, I have also noticed it has holes in the rockers,, rear frame (by the bumper brackets and leaf spring mount areas), in the frame rails behind the front tires, and the body door gaps change when you jack it up from one end or the other! I am sure this is due to the floor and frame holes. The only part that can be easily patched and is soild, is the trunk floor. This makes me question if I shouldn't go Gasser, straight front axle, or gut the floors, and do the Pro Street new frame, V-8, etc. route? Lol.
It would be a phenomenal amount of fabrication to repair the damage you describe for an "original" restoration. I combined (mostly/partly) a fairly solid "donor" car with my project in an attempt to save as much as possible of my first car. Not something I would recommend for a newly acquired project.
In retrospect........if one was interested in doing a full restoration project.......... you'd be far better off financially to buy a rust free body from Duane Hayes, restore that and swap parts from the project over to that as they were restored.
If you want an Aero with a modern undercarriage, that's been done quite well by others and it eliminates all the quirky Aero restoration/maintenance issues.