Kaiser Frazer Owners Club Forum
General Category => Cars For Sale & Wanted => Topic started by: konrad on April 01, 2020, 11:37:41 AM
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/1951-Kaiser-Deluxe/164145494767?hash=item2637d57aef:g:gvAAAOSwdppeg9ta
Love the wood on the door panels!
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Not cheap, either. $17,500.
https://www.gatewayclassiccars.com/SCT/482/1951-Kaiser-Deluxe
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Hmmm...
Not so sure that price is that out of line given the newness of the restoration, the details like that woodwork on the door panels, the condition outside and inside.
And you could probably get it for somewhere between 16 and 16.5K...
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At the asking price for the car as noted in a previous post on this topic, my personal thought is that the car is way overpriced which no doubt reflects what the owner/consignor of the car has invested in it. There are many things incorrect based on the photos provided but worse, there is nothing to indicate the condition of the trunk and the engine compartment as well as the underside of the vehicle. Also there is no picture of the Body Information Tag or the door post Serial Number tag. these items would provide a reference for original condition, equipment and even assembly point for the vehicle which could, in turn, enhance the provinance of the car as factory OK rather than a good #3 driver which is only valued at under $9,500 USD. Number 1 and 2 condition values in the OLD CAR PRICE GUIDE are based on original condition vehicles not a nice, quality non-factory restoration and #2 is under $15,000 under best conditions without something that makes the car a stand-out among the others.
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My understanding of #1 and #2 (insert the jokes here folks!!!) are as follows:
A #2 condition car can be either a very well kept survivor car that is occasionally driven, or a very nice restoration that is also, at least occasionally, driven.
A #1 condition car is either a factory original, essentially museum piece car, or a restored to factory condition, frame off, rotisserie restoration...but in either case the car is now essentially a trailer queen that is never driven unless it's on and off the trailer.
Personally, I can't see owning a #1 condition car. It would be like having a world class sound system that you never listened to, or a magnificent copy of a rare book that you never bothered to read...
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That car has made the rounds on ebay a number of times and can't seem to find a buyer. I too think it's because it's priced too high. It's a nice looking car with nice features but the price tag keeps buyers away.
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Click on the gateway link, open it up, you'll see the photos you're looking for. Pic # 90 or so shows under the hood, # 107 shows the firewall tag, 110 or so shows the trunk interior, 120's show underneath and #125 shows the jamb tag!! It's still overpriced though!
Gary
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What's up with the ignition switch on that car? On my '51 the key turns counter clockwise to turn it on and the position that it's sitting in those pictures would be ignition on with key removed. Is mine abnormal or is the car in that ad abnormal?
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Yes, a not so well kept secret with Kaisers...you can leave the ignition in the on position and remove the key, then all you need do is hit the starter button to start the car.
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Yes, a not so well kept secret with Kaisers...you can leave the ignition in the on position and remove the key, then all you need do is hit the starter button to start the car.
So this is new to me. Won't the points burn up if left in the "on" position?
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You guys are correct that can has been online for a long time . Just like that 54 on Hemmings for $39.000 that one has been there for years .
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So this is new to me. Won't the points burn up if left in the "on" position?
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe no current is sent to the distributor until you push the starter button...
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Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe no current is sent to the distributor until you push the starter button...
Wrong. When you turn the ignition switch on, it applies 6 volts to the neg terminal on the coil. All the starter button does is run the starter to turn the engine over. When the engine turns over, the distributor rotates and the points open and close to generate the spark. The coil needs to be hot in order for this to happen. Leaving the switch on can damage the points if they are in the closed position.
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Wrong. When you turn the ignition switch on, it applies 6 volts to the neg terminal on the coil. All the starter button does is run the starter to turn the engine over. When the engine turns over, the distributor rotates and the points open and close to generate the spark. The coil needs to be hot in order for this to happen. Leaving the switch on can damage the points if they are in the closed position.
Thank you for setting me straight on that Fid!
So if I understand correctly, it's a 50/50 crapshoot as to whether the points are open or closed, depending on where they are positioned when the engine is shut off?
Also, will the points potentially burn up if the switch is left in the on position and the points are closed?
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No problem konrad
Regarding...
So if I understand correctly, it's a 50/50 crapshoot as to whether the points are open or closed
It makes sense to me that it could happen but to be honest, I've never seen it happen and I've accidentally left my ignition switch on more than a few times! Still, I would not do it.
This is why the earlier cars without and "ACC" position have the radio wired to the hot side of the ignition switch - so you can play the radio without having to turn the switch on and hence risk the points being damaged. Lots of differences on these old cars isn't there?
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Indeed they is...differences that is. :)
Never would have known Kaiser's with the hydramatic had a parking gear but for a lengthy phone conversation I had with Larry Barker one day, or that one click left of the ignition switch "on" position locks everything out, and per Larry, means you couldn't even hot wire the vehicle...