Kaiser Frazer Owners Club Forum
General Category => Kaiser Forum => Topic started by: boatingbill on October 19, 2012, 06:18:30 PM
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Is the exhaust manifold for the 226 engine unique to the 51-52 years? Do the later years have
similar problems with cracking?
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1953 to 55 manifolds are different than 52 and earlier and don't interchange. They dont have a heat riser flap. The only way you could use it on the earlier engine would be to include the intake manifold and exhaust pipe from 53 or newer car. You might also need the carb ,linkage air filter etc. The car would probably run better with the newer set up.
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Talked with Chris Becker today and he has a mixture of Chrysler, Chev and Kaiser parts. He has
exhaust manifolds, but doesn't know what is what. Is there a way to tell the Kaiser/Frazer exhaust
manifolds by a stamping on them? Are 46-50 the same, as 51-52 and 53-55 for example? If there
is a stamping number it would be easy for him to know what he has and by the way I am looking
for the 51-52 manifold if he can figure out what he has.
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When I first started rebuilding my 53 Henry-J the exhaust manifold was cracked very badly. I gas welded it with a special metal made for welding cast iron. The engine has at least 15 thousand miles on it now with no problems with the manifold. It might be worth trying.
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Bob, finding some one to do this welding is difficult. If I tear it all apart and have it welded and the
job is not done correctly, I am back to square one. I would prefer to find a uncracked manifold if
possible and then have mine as a backup for possible repair. My has been repaired once already.
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46-50 manifolds differ from the 51-2 which differs from the 53-5 units. Some 46-50 units used a 1bbl carb while the upper trim units used a 2 bbl unit.
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1951 Kaisers NEVER used a 1 barrel carb! Show me in a factory issued document.
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I repeat, can anyone tell the exhaust manifolds apart by the years used other than the 51-52 had
a taller center section for the heat riser?
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The carb pre-heater (the thermostat on the forward side of the casting) makes the 1951-52 version stick out like a sore thumb compared to the 1953-55 version. Also, the illustrations of engines in showroom literature pieces (the catalogs and larger sized folders) further identifies the shape and visual characteristics of the manifolds used various years. This info can also be found in parts lists and service manuals.
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I'm still searching for a exhaust manifold for my 53....HARD to find!
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I'm still searching for a exhaust manifold for my '51, also hard to find!
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Did you check with Larry Barker in the KF Club?
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Yes, I did and he did not have one. I'm sure there is one sitting on a shelf in a garage or shed
somewhere.
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Have you checked with Dale Hammon in Beloit WI? You might also want to run a WANTED ad in the KFOCI MONTHLY BULLETIN.
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I got one for my '51 Kaiser from another member locally (Thanks, Randy!). It was very rusty on the outside, and had to have the studs replaced, and the surfaces re-planed, but once I got it powder coated or ceramic coated or what ever it was they did to it (and roughly $300 total later) it was a good as new! I even bought new pieces for the carb heater valve from Fred Walker a few years ago.
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I noticed that where the exhaust pipe meets the manifold that someone had at one time put
some heat putty around the gasket. The putty was crumbling and and there was exhaust
leaking. I dropped the pipe and wire brushed the joint and put in a Napa 60146 gasket that
the Kaiser part interchange lists. The gasket fit perfectly but looks a little thin. When everything
was back together the joint still leaks around the gasket. Is this the correct gasket? An old trick
used to be to put two gaskets together to compensate for corrosion or warp age. Has anyone
tried this? Maybe this was why the putty was there to begin with.
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Yes, that's the right gasket. Remember, things are to fit as if all of the parts are new. I've double gasketed the exhaust pipe with success.
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Joefrazer, I'm going to try that next.
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I was told (and did) to use one of those round copper donut thingees that has the asbestos in the center which squish down when the exhaust pipe is tightened against the manifold. It's in the parts list. Had a similar leak before and this gasket fixed it...no more leaks.
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Mbflemingkf, I have the Richard Hansen parts interchange list and don't see a "doughnut" gasket listed. Do you have a Napa part number?
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boatingbill...no, I'm sorry, I picked up 3 from a club vendor and they didn't come with a number. If you run out of options, I'll let 1 go for $10 postage paid. It worked on my car when I had an exhaust leak the traditional gaskets wouldn't stop...can't speak for all cars & situations (I have a 54 Kaiser). Maybe there's others on the chat who have used them?
Mike
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OK I'm stumped. I doubled the exhaust gaskets between the exhaust pipe and the exhaust
manifold and that fixed that leak. I still had a exhaust manifold leak where a previous owner
had the manifold welded in two places and the welds cracked. I cleaned everything up and
replaced the exhaust manifold. Now the only leak is at exhaust ports 3 and 4. This is the large
casting where the heat tube connects. It appears that the intake and exhaust ports are not
perfectly even though ports 1 & 2 and 5 & 6 are even. Ports 3 and 4 have a wide space
between the mounting bolts and looks like a common space to leak. Has anyone used two
exhaust gaskets between the block and manifolds? Would this even work to compensate
for the unevenness between the intake and exhaust faces that are against the block? I
have tightened the bolts but don't want to crack a casting or break a stud. Yes, I did read
Kaiserbills comments on manifolds. Any ideas?
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Just a shot in the dark . You have probable already done this but i will suggest it anyway .
Take the manifolds apart and have them plained like you would the head to make sure they have no warps in them . When reassembling them , leave the bolts holding them together loose until you have installeed them on the block and then finish tighting them . This keeps them from cracking the casting . I hope this works to stop your leaks .
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Try spraying aluminum paint on block and then installing manifold, worked for me on another car
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My leak appears not to be between the block and the gasket, but between the exhaust manifold
and the gasket because I see black soot forming on the gasket. I am wondering if the used
exhaust manifold that I got was warped which would explain why 1 & 2 and 5 & 6 are even with
the intake ports, but 3 & 4 are not.