Kaiser Frazer Owners Club Forum
General Category => Kaiser Forum => Topic started by: Adam47manhattan on November 15, 2012, 04:29:06 PM
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I have an appointment to see a Kaiser this Saturday and all the pics look good however the interior is a Frazer interior. Serial # is K-481-060876, did these come from factory like this or is this put together? Any help would be great. | MODEL|BODY|PAINT|TRIM|RD|KI|TR|RA|AN|
| 481 5 111 122 2 2 |
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| BODY NUMBER 5390 |
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Check the 1948 Kaiser listing in KFOCI HANDBOOK Verrsion 4.0 with the paint/trim info. 122 is the same upholstery as used on the other 1948 Kaiser Specials; interior paint is Cloude Taupe Beige with 122.
Tag for the body number is not consistent with serial number tag. The two serial numbers (body and door post) should be much closer together. What is SCHED and ITEM number?
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9 /383
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Adam, give me a call. Mike www.tarheelkf.com
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The ITEM and SCHED numbers confirm that the body was built in early December 1947. The door post number indicates the car was actually assembled early June 1948. As December 1947 and early January 1948 were the busiest production times for K-F I don't think a finished body sat around for 6 months or so.
By "Frazer Interior" I assume that door panels and seats from a Frazer were put in the car. It's not that hard to do.
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dash and steering wheel also say frazer/have the crest
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The dashboard is the same size stamping and mounts in the same way for 1947-50 model years. It is not hard to replace the trim and gages. Anyone with a good set of tools, a donor car and a couple weekends could make a switch. For example, removing one bolt takes a steering wheel off and the horn ring/contact assembly from a donor Manhattan (1947 or 1948) will match up with the Kaiser's horn button. My father and brother took out the dashboard from a 1951 Frazer in just a couple of hours when we parted one out.
If the car is titled as a Kaiser, has Kaiser tags on it (complete with WRONG TRIM INFORMATION) and there is no SPEC-FO number on the tag (proper combination of letters and numbers) then it is a cobbled up 1948 Kaiser. Final inspection on the line would have turned the car around without the SPEC-FO information. But dashbords did not go to the line until August, if the factory information on change over (1948-1949 model years) that I have is correct.
Unless the seller can document FACTORY PARENTAGE for the set-up, it's wrong.
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Is this the car?
http://www.themotorclub21.com/programs/carlotpage.cgi?19481242111_13
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I looked at the pictures. The interior is that of a 1949-51 Frazer. ANYONE LOOKING SERIOUSLY AT THIS CAR SHOULD GET THE DOCUMENTATION FROM THE SELLER THAT THIS IS FACTORY! There is NO, repeat NO factory information that I have or have ever seen that says there were 2,000 Kaisers built that way! There were 1200+ 1948 Kaiser Customs built but they have Kaiser interiors and 1948 layout dashboards rather than what you see here. If the seller says "that's what I was told" with nothing factory to document the claim, walk away unless you want someone else's nice-looking customizing job.
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I remember that car was on ebay once and we had some discussion about it. I too am skeptical (surprise, surprise) as it was very easy for anyone to bolt Frazer appointments onto any early Kaiser. I know people who did it and I'm sure there were others.
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Thanks I told the seller the same thing with confirmation.....oops! however I was right and I'm still going to look at it but will not pay more than what it is worth. It's been for sale for 2 year I wonder why!!!!
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Yes it is important to note that these issues do not make it a "bad" car, it's just not what it appears or what the seller was told it was. It may run fine and look nice if someone likes it, great. I always say, it's your car, have it as you like it. But I also don't like when something is mis-represented.
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I picked the car up yesterday and the shifter broke on the first drive. Can I replace the shifter or do I have to replace the whole shifter arm?
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It depends upon what broke. If it's just the chrome plated arm where the knob attaches, yes you can replace just this part. I pin holds it in place that can be driven out with a punch. Once the pin has been removed, the arm will slip out of it's socket, allowing replacement.