Kaiser Frazer Owners Club Forum
General Category => Kaiser Forum => Topic started by: 51Deluxe on August 27, 2015, 09:15:31 PM
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My '51 Deluxe has a canister type oil filter housing where you replace the cartridge inside. I looked at the cartridge and it says "FRAM 1120" . I was unable to find a Fram filter with that number available except for a modern spin on type filter, "P1120". ANy idea what I should replace this with, and how readily available is it?
Question 2: If oil pressure drops dramatically as the engine heats up will straight 30 weight improve the situation over say 10w30?
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Napa 1080 is what my 48 used....
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Post a pic of your filter housing - Several different style Fram canisters will fit KF so yours may use a cartridge that differs from a 1080.
And yes, straight 30 motor oil help keep pressure up. I've used 20/50 in my 53 as well.
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Question 2: If oil pressure drops dramatically as the engine heats up will straight 30 weight improve the situation over say 10w30?
Interesting question. I was told many years ago (in the '70s) to only run straight weight oil in these old cars and to change it every 1000 miles or when it's dirty. I've always done that and never had any engine problems in any of my cars. I know there are other opinions out there and I'd like to hear (read) them again.
Next point to make - the oil filters on these engines are simply "by-pass" filters meaning they are not in the oil circulation path, they are simply another channel for some of the oil to flow through and get cleaned. My opinion, at least regarding the Henry J, is if it has an oil filter on it, remove it or block it off. For reason mentioned, they are very inefficient and provide more areas for leaks and failures. Change the oil every 1000 miles and you'll be fine.
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My 54 Kaiser Special and 53 Allstate both use the same filter, by pass, Fram C4 also AC filter P 115. I found the Fram at O'Reilleys.
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The Fram C4 certainly looks like it. Maybe a local store will have it in stock so I can compare.
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I am surprised at Lowell's comments about HJ oil filters. Because I agree with them. Oil filters on early cars were add on accessories. They added 1 qt of oil. They didn't do much to filter oil as such and were useful as a place to collect sediment (especially sediment connected to moisture). However sediment also collected in the bottom of the oil pan. There is the problem about external lines and fittings leaking.
If you don't drive a lot of miles and keep your oil fresh, don't worry about missing an oil filter.
If you have an AMC 6 or 8 with an add on, spin on filter, you could damage your engine with the wrong replacement filter. It looks like a PH8, but it has an internal block off (a very small hole) to prevent too much oil to be diverted to the filter and dropping the oil feed to the crankshaft.
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The Henry J add on oil filter is not just useless, it is DANGEROUS! On a 4 cyl. It taps its supply from the oil gallery between cyl. #1 and cly.#2. It forms a shunt around #1 robbing it of oil. I removed them from every car I have owned. If I had one ,I would keep a dirty filter in it to impede the flow!
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It should be noted that 1951 Kaiser and Frazer automobiles came with an oil filter as either standard equipment or as part of an accessory group. Regarding Henry J and Allstates, some people swear by their effectiveness, others swear at them.
1951-55 Kaisers came with a type 1/2 filter as standard equipment. This was an oddball where the entire metal canister was sealed (no replacement element). When you had to change filters you literally disconnected the two oil lines and put on a new canister. Problem now is that these filters went out of production in the 1980's. They were also used on 6 cylinder Chrysler Corporation cars into the late 1950's & there are some of the Chrysler parts filters (they are black in color) still around.
However, as you will find in KFOCI HANDBOOK, when the 1951 Kaiser went on sale, the factory issued a memo suggesting that dealers sell retail car buyers the replacement element filter unit and replace the 1/2. The memo states that the swap pays for itself after 5 oil changes because of the cost difference between the element compared to the much more expensive type 1/2 canister. The part number they refer to came either as a Purolator unit (uses P70-ff element) or Fram unit.