Kaiser Frazer Owners Club Forum
General Category => Darrin Forum => Topic started by: joefrazer on October 25, 2015, 09:59:14 AM
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This followed me home yesterday. Apologies for the poor picture...I was quickly losing daylight. It's all there and will run.
Now the real work begins!
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Wonderful !!!
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Congrats Jim...more pics please!! :)
Mike
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Wow, neat! :D Looks like a good cleaning and buffing and you will have a presentable car. What are your plans for it?
Also, what is the history of it -- who had it, how long, how did you find it, etc?
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Nice, ok now, what number is it????
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Here's another picture of the car. It is complete except for the driver side park light assembly and the rear view mirror. I have another visit with the seller to schedule and I hope to track them down in the garage.
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Looks like you are developing a 54 fetish!. NICE!!
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Another thread is talking tires and that jogged my memory. I know 5.90x15 is the standard size tire for a Darrin but has anyone fitted 6.40x15 tires? I ask because a new set was included and I'm thinking of using them while I run the car as a driver.
I know on the HJ a 6.40 tire will interfere with the clutch so I'm guessing the same holds true here. Anything else to be concerned about?
I gave the car a bath today, it does look a bit better.
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Jim, I've got 6.40s on my '53 J and they do not interfere with the clutch. This is a problem though if the tires are too big. I did have a set of 1970s steel belted tires on my '53 for years. I don't recall what size they were but they did indeed interfere with clutch pedal, especially when backing out of my driveway when I had to cramp the wheels. I installed 6.40s in the early '90s and the first thing I noticed was that did not happen any more. Based on my experience, you should be fine with 6.40s on a J. I can't speak for the Darrin.
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I have 6.40s on my 54 HJ and with the clutch pedal depressed there is interference with the tire on a hard turn. Since a set of new 6.40s came with my Darrin I'm going to install them and see what happens. I know they didn't fit on my other Darrin (car #30) but there was a running design change in the footwell that allowed for a bit more room in the wheel well on the later cars, which mine is.
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Does anyone have a current part number for the oil pressure hose that connects the line from the engine to the dash gauge? I'm just about ready to try to start the engine and would prefer a new hose...who knows how old the current one is.
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Pulled the car out today to clean it up a bit more...what a difference some soap and water makes! The top material isn't attached...it's just laying on the top bows.
On the downside, I ran a compression test today and found a couple of low cylinders. The car was last driven about 30 years ago so my guess is that a couple of valves are stuck open. I'm going to try to start the car and if I can get it to run on four or five cylinders that should get the others to cooperate. If not, I'll pull the head and deal with whatever I find. I know the head gasket is good and the block's not cracked as the oil is clean and the coolant stays full...until it leaks out of the dried up water pump packing...
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Hard to believe that's the same car that was on the trailer!
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Update...it runs! A fresh set of points, a condenser and a new coil was the answer. Next up, clean the fuel delivery system so it can run off the tank.
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That's great Joe! Also, the car looks great after a cleaning. :)
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While sorting thru some small bags of extra parts, I came across four of these tags. I've never seen one before...have you?
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Those tags went onto the studs that mount the seat belts in your Darrin. If you remove the seats, complete seat assembly, you will see studs sticking through the sides in the lower rear corners, where seat belts would normally be mounted. If the studs are gone, you will see the holes in the sides where the studs were. I have my seat belts mounted in my Darrin at the same locations. I do not know at what Darrin S/N these seat belt studs were started. There were 2 studs mounted on a steel sheet metal plate that came through the floor from underneath, and had aircraft style nylock nuts holding them in place. There were a total of 4 stud sets.
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Yes, my car has the studs (#183). I've never seen the pictured tabs before though. The car was stored in a building full of other material so I guess I better go hunting for the belts.
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Jim, if the tabs were on the studs, then belts were never dealer installed. I suspect the tabs were removed by a subsequent owner, but it is interesting to see you found the tabs. I doubt if you will find factory belts, but good hunting and good luck with #183. Enjoy. Another thought, if you do find the original belts, I don't think they would be safe to use. Like tires, the belts would have a lifespan that has expired. They would be usefull patterns for new belts. There are companies that can remake belts from the original patterns.
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I think the car had belts in it at one time - there are marks in the vinyl consistent with the mount plate. The car itself was stored in a large pole barn together with several other vehicles, all disassembled to some degree over the years. So, finding the belts will be a bit of a challenge but not impossible unless the previous owner discarded them. And, I agree about their lifespan so if they are located, I'd have them rebuilt.
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Question for the Darrin group...what size wiper arm was used? My car came with a small box of arms and none in place on the car. There are three different sizes in the box so I don't know which to use. I do know the blade itself is an 11" unit.
I have - 11 1/4", 12 1/2", and 14" (all sizes approximate).
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I decided today to drop the tank on the Darrin and have it professionally cleaned and sealed. I'm glad I did as it looks like I might need a new float!
Surprisingly, everything unbolted without any breaks or leaks. I did find about a gallon of foul smelling fuel in the tank...no doubt that's what killed the float. Fortunately, I have another.
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Mine sat for 38 years but with all the gas removed. It was in Denver and it is dry there, when I made sure the engine was ok, I put gas in the carb and it ran fine, I put gas in the tank and the fuel pump and gas tank worked for over two 1/2 years of driving. I am replacing the fuel pump diaphragm and rebuilding the carb while it is down, though. The gas gauge on mine was good. I guess I was lucky.
Your tank looks yukey!! WIll you be able to get a new float?
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Update - I got the tank cleaned and professionally sealed so it's good to go. About the sending unit, a quick look at the parts book and it uses a different number than the HJ, probably due to dash gauge. Does anyone have a source for a replacement? Mine is no good.
Also, looking for current part numbers for the upper and lower radiator hoses.
I've been making slow but steady progress otherwise. All four brake backing plates have been cleaned and painted, along with the suspension in the immediate area. I still have a lot of scraping and cleaning to get the 60 years of grease off the underside.
While removing the old brake lines, I noticed that the rear axle T was held in place with a muffler clamp. The T was nut and bolted to the clamp base at a spot on the rear axle tube closer to the center, rather than in the normal location. I'm guessing this is correct because the exhaust pipe would otherwise contact the hose. Am I right?
Attached is a picture of what I removed.
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Update - The tires have been mounted on newly cleaned and painted wheels, all fours shocks have been installed and I'm almost done stringing new brake lines. I cut off the old exhaust and I do believe it was the original. There wasn't much left of it.
Attached is a picture of a hanger that is welded to the frame, just ahead of the rear wheel. The exhaust pipe ran thru it...my question...is it a factory item? I have quite a few pictures of Darrins in various stages of restoration, but none of the frame with the exhaust installed. Can anyone confirm this is supposed to be there?
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#145 doesn't have a bracket like that, in fact there is no hanger at that location. Gary.
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Thanks for the information - I suspected the bracket wasn't original to the car. The previous owner had cut the original exhaust at the point where it makes the turn and had added a deflector to kick the exhaust out under the fender and in front of the wheel. He must have added the bracket to support the rerouted pipe.
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Question to those who've restored their Darrin - I'm trying to source the flexible oil line that runs from the engine to the pressure gauge steel line. Has anyone replaced theirs and if so, can you pass along where you obtained yours?
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So, I guess I need to rephrase the question...anyone have a commercially available source for the rubber oil hose that runs between the engine and dash gauge steel line?
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Personally I do not use any rubber hose on my cars for oil or gasoline. I use braided stainless lines and AN fittings. It's not factory correct, but I want to be able to drive and enjoy without worrying about oil or fuel leaks. Any speed shop or automotive supply house should be able to help.
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Some progress being made...after about 40 hours work on the dash I finally have it looking presentable. It's now the correct color - although the picture makes it look too dark - and it no longer has large chunks of peeling paint to contend with.
Next up, to get the engine painted and everything under the hood back together.
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Looks great Jim!! :) :) :)
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Added a 'before' shot of the dash.
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Taking advantage of a nice day to get the rims primed and painted.
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Looks like the steering wheel is body color it should be white. I personally like it body color in the champagne white car but not original.
Lee
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About the oil line havent had to do one yet but will soon , i am going to see if the local hydraulic hose shop can do it. Just a thought.
Lee
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Finally had some time to devote to the Darrin. The engine has been painted and reassembly has begun. I'm now looking for suitable hood gasket material. The old gasket on my car had long ago turned to dust so I don't have any sample with which to work. Near as I can tell, the gasket should be 3/4 x 1/4 in size. Can anyone confirm...and if you replaced yours, where did you get the replacement gasket?
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Very nice!
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If I remember correctly, I bought a weatherstrip 'kit' from Rudy 8 or 9 years ago. Most of it seems generic. The hood w/strip appears to be the same as # 4675 from Restoration Specialties, a "universal-fits most cars" design! It works but I'm not sure it's 100% correct.
Gary.
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I think the hood weather strip is closer to this material, at least from what I could tell by looking at the four Darrins present at this year's national meet ->https://www.metrommp.com/index.cfm?f=type_detail&ModelNumber=LP%2031634&Type=Adhesive%20Backed%20Weatherstripping
Item 4675 from RS is for the trunk and top lid - that's what I used and it was a very close match what came off the car.
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The weatherstrip I ordered arrived today and it's a match to what's on several restored cars. It's Metro Moulded Rubber's #31634. In the meantime, I've been getting the engine back together. Anyone have current numbers for the upper and lower rad hoses?
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Well, things have not gone according to plan. I tried to start the Darrin and it would only hit on two cylinders. I checked compression and four of the six were low but not low enough to prevent starting. I figured the valves were either sticking or there was excess carbon in the cylinders. After repeated attempts I gave up and pulled the head. What I found was a real mess. It looks like something got into a few of the cylinders and caused some real trouble. I haven't looked to closely to see if the cylinder walls are gouged but if they are, then it's time for another engine.
So, if anyone has a running six cylinder f-head they'd like to sell, I would be interested.
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I bought an engine from Rudy about five years ago and I am not going to use it. It is stored in my garage in St Joseph MO and would need to be picked up. I would like to get my $700 back that I paid Rudy if you can use it.
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Does it run?
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Wow, that's not good news at all, especially after you got it looking so good & installed.
Just for your comparison, I bought everything from Egge to rebuild my F-head including valves, springs, guides & extra gaskets for the "post break in" re-torque & adjustments...... but not the phenolic timing gear, cam, lifters, push rods & crank....... $1477 delivered.
Machinist & I had to literally drive the pistons (stuck rings) out of the block with an 8lb sledge hammer even after soaking a couple months with Kroil. Machinist still only went .030 over to get the bores clean & round. I think Egge has pistons up to .060 over, your block would have to be gouged pretty bad to go that far.
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I have a set of 0.080 oversize pistons for that engine that I would sell for $200 dollars plus shipping.
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Does it run?
I never heard it run but Rudy said that it was a good engine. It has been stored in my garage for about five years. It is complete and not disassembled minus starter and generator etc. If you want to pick it up and try to start it before purchase you are welcome to do that.
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So, I'm about to pull the engine in the Darrin since it needs rebuilt. Does anyone have any words of advice...any step or steps to follow to make the job a bit easier? I've pull many a Kaiser and Henry J engine, but never one from a Darrin. Since it poses its own set of unique challenges...not being able to pull the doghouse for example...I thought I'd ask before I dig in.
By the way, I decided to have this one rebuilt. There's little to no ridge and no scoring of the cylinder walls and the head is in good shape so I figured I'd go the route of a rebuild.
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Have you considered a timing gear without the fiber coating?
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Hi
I would be interested in the engine have you turned it with a breaker bar? does it have the flywheel or bell housing?
Let me know
Thanks
Lee
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I am in the middle of an F-Head rebuild. Words of advice; Magnaflux everything block and head flywheel, etc, most all of these old cast iron pieces have some cracks. My original head had at least 6 major cracks and was not usable, thanks to Mark on this group I got a replacement head that has minor cracks but is usable. Depending on where the cracks are they may still be usable. I needed to sleeve one cylinder, a second cylinder already has a sleeve. Cracks around several valve seats in both head and block means I am having new valve seats installed. Deep scratches on the crank means I had to have the journals ground .020 under and polished. Cam is being polished, it looks like I don't need a re-ground cam, that is a good thing.
I would be surprised that it is possible to bore this engine .080 over. That may have been a typo, but maybe not. It would seem the wall thickness would be getting pretty thin and are .080 pistons and rings available? That would be a nice bump in displacement and HP, I would think.
Pulling the engine is very easy, there is a lot of room. I pulled the engine after separating the transmission and bell-housing, however I think I will try to install them after mating them. Getting one of the bell-housing bolts was difficult because how close it was to the firewall.
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Thanks for the info. I plan to pull both the engine and trans together because reassembly in the car is very difficult - been there and done that with a Henry J. My engine doesn't look bad and was never open so it should clean up with minor machining, but one never knows until the work actually begins.
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I'm also in the middle of an ongoing F-head rebuild. Told the machinist to take his time & do a nice job and I think that equated into fill in work between other work.
I requested magnafluxing & haven't heard about any cracks so if there were any I'm guessing they were minor issues. Crank went .010 under, cylinder bores went .030 under mainly due to the bottoms being out of round. Rod big ends were machined true & re-bored round. Cam good, push rods good, lifters good. Getting hardened seats installed as well as all new valves, springs & guides. New cam gear. Flywheel resurfaced, never heard if it got magnafluxed.
One thing I noticed is that Egge's pistons don't have the heat dam groove near the top but it seems every other parts supplier's pistons do. I questioned them before ordering and they said it wasn't needed and they ran a more modern ring pack. I talked to my machinist and he said that was good and he never liked the heat dam pistons.
The other thing that jumped out at me when the parts arrived is the upper portion of Egge's pistons are turned down a few thousandths rather than being full diameter all the way to the top. Once again the machinist approved, said it was for expansion and he's had good results with their pistons.
Out of sheer fate, turns out this machinist used to do the machine work for the last remaining Willys dealer in this region and is familiar with the engine so I'm hoping for a good build.
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I plan to use Egge's parts as well so that's good to know. I spent some time today looking more closely at the cylinder walls and only one has scoring, and what's there is very minor. I think an .030 cleanup will do it.
Unfortunately, I can't ask the previous owner what happened to the engine - he passed away many years ago. My guess is that something like sand or something larger like a nut got down inside and rattled around. The valves all appear good, albeit very carbon caked, and the oil that came out of the crankcase didn't look bad, so I guess I'll never know.
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Don't know if you're replacing valves but I learned something today in a visit to the machine shop. Egge's exhaust valves needed to have 50 thousandths machined off the ends of the stems to allow for proper adjustment. They were fine in every other way.
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Now that the dust has settled from our move, I got back to working on the Darrin. The engine has been removed, it came out with no trouble and my work is now before me...clean and paint the engine bay and do the same for the transmission. Speaking of the latter, it's proving to be more trouble trying to separate it from the engine than removing the entire unit from the car. Everything is original so I'm guessing a liberal application of WD40 is in order.
Lee - your suggestion to drop the cross member helped a lot. Thanks!
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Happy to help. Good luck with the build.
Call me if you need any more information.
Lee
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After plenty of WD40, some heat from the torch and work from the pry bar, the engine and transmission have finally been separated. It looks like the clutch and related parts are original which would explain why they didn't want to come apart. The next step, off to the rebuilder!
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Isn't that cast iron bell housing heavy!!!
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I dropped the Darrin engine off at the rebuilder today and as we were chatting he pointed to a workbench and mentioned that he was in the middle of work on another f-head six. As rare as these engines are, what are the chances of having two of the same engine at a rebuilder in a small town in north central Ohio?! I was surprised!
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That is unusual but considering Willys was based in Ohio, it seems more likely you'd encounter the scenario there than in other parts of the country.
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You’ll have to pass on their info:-)
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I dropped the Darrin engine off at the rebuilder today and as we were chatting he pointed to a workbench and mentioned that he was in the middle of work on another f-head six. As rare as these engines are, what are the chances of having two of the same engine at a rebuilder in a small town in north central Ohio?! I was surprised!
What other vehicles were these engines used in? I believe they were used in the Willys 685 Station Wagon for a time, correct?
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A heads up on Best Gaskets if that's what was supplied to you.
I had my engine set up to run it's break-in hours on a stand, ran it week end before last. It went well except the carbs were badly out of tune and a couple gasket leaks.
Something at the back of the engine, I suspect the rear main rope seal since the drip appeared to have graphite in it. Also, a small amount of amber colored oil started to weep from almost the entire perimeter of the head gasket when the engine came up to temp, 160. My break-in oil is dark purple, antifreeze brilliant orange. The only amber oil in the engine was cylinder wall lube at assembly. The engine was flipped at one point after the head went on but everyone's scratching their heads on how the gasket could absorb any of that. Calls to Best and their calls to their "go to" engine builder haven't gone anywhere so far.
However, I did learn that they have specific instruction on sealing their head gasket NOT included with the gaskets but stated somewhere on their website. Coppercoat sealer MUST be used, and their re-torque requirements differ from the factory manual. I don't remember exact specifics now but you might want to check on that.
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this should be in a new thread rather than buried in this muddled-up posting.
too many side issues from the original posting--important info may not be discovered by some
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Funny that you mentioned that Terry...I just screen shot this and added to my engine rebuild folder...
Maybe there could/should be a Rebuild-Tips (whatever the name) section added :)
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this should be in a new thread rather than buried in this muddled-up posting.
too many side issues from the original posting--important info may not be discovered by some
Just posting where I know someone is going down the same path as me, but I also agree, the title of this thread wouldn't interest anyone looking for rebuilding info. I'll repost in "General Discussion" and Admin can move it if needed.
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Saw the other post...replied there but will here as well to tie up the loose end.
I used a Best Gasket set on my Jeepster f-head engine and had no problems. I did not use any sealer and torqued everything to the shop manual's spec.
I will mention your problem to my rebuilder when we next speak. He has experience with f-head engines and might have some insight.
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Can anyone tell me what the cotter pin's function is that is attached to the end of the clutch release lever? Once I degreased everything this morning I discovered this pin but don't know why it's there. Any thoughts?
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To attach one end of a 'return' spring to? (Don't be too hard on me, I have not worked on many Kaisers/Frazers :) ).
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To attach one end of a 'return' spring to? (Don't be too hard on me, I have not worked on many Kaisers/Frazers :) ).
Ditto. On an Aero the other end goes to the crossmember. Keeps tension on the fork and any slack that may be in the linkage.
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Hmmm...interesting. When I disassembled things there was no spring. I didn’t see one listed in the parts book either. The plot thickens!
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Hmmm...interesting. When I disassembled things there was no spring. I didn’t see one listed in the parts book either. The plot thickens!
Well, here's another "plot thickener". The retainer that I sent to Lee had a small tab with a hole on one of the retainer bolts. 3 other T-96's including my original one didn't have it. Lee recognized it as for another spring to assist clutch fork return but said they will work without it. I plan on re-assembling mine as it came apart, so didn't look at any parts diagrams.
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My transmission does not have the tab shown. The engine/trans was never out of the Darrin until I removed it so the part may have been eliminated during the course of production. I may add a spring from the cotter pin to the clutch bracket, however.
Thanks for the picture!
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Question - the metal fuel line that connects to the rubber hose at the fuel pump...does that metal line route over or under the motor mount bracket? The line was missing on my car so I have no idea as to how the metal line routes. Can anyone help? A picture would help greatly!
And, an update. The engine rebuild id almost done. I had to go .030 over on the bore due to some minor scoring in one cylinder, otherwise everything else is stock.
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Hi Jim
I could only find one old picture from my first Darrin. I have not done any with the original engine until now. I am pretty sure it goes under. I am including a picture it appears that it goes under.
hope it helps.
Lee
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here is a better pic sorry.
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I'm sorting thru the parts I have on hand for the Darrin and I've come to realize that I'm missing a couple of clutch related springs. According to the parts list, pn 215355 is a clutch tension spring that's to run from the adjusting rod to the release lever. Can anyone tell me where this spring mounts at each end? Does one end attach to the cotter pin on the clutch fork? If so, where does the other end of the spring mount? Can anyone supply a picture?
Also, pn 212730 is the clutch return spring. Again, it's missing on my car and without any point of reference I don't know where it's to mount.
As always, any help is appreciated!!
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You can pm me. I have a parts Darrin in boxes. Not sure what I have.. Working this year on an inventory..
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I have a garage full of kitchen cabinets and cannot get to mine at the moment...if nobody gets to you a picture soon, i'll be able to check later this week.
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Ok, next question. The bracket - if you want to call it that - in the attached pictures is present on my car but I'm not sure it's original. It's welded to the frame and is also tied to the body mount bolt that's at the leading edge of the driver's door. I think the previous owner added it to corral his homemade exhaust system. Before I cut it off, I just want to be sure it shouldn't be there.
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Here are my pictures of my clutch springs which I added as when I got the car the clutch bearing was tight to the pressure plate so it didn't last long before I had to replace it.
Also, here are pictures of the brackets under the drivers door with the body removed. Don't know if either of these pictures help for what you need.
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Send me your email address I will send you a picture of my frame I am in Chicago now and can’t post it from my iPhone.
Lee
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leeabrahams@cox.net
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Looking at the first frame picture above, I see what appears to be the remnants of the same brackets I have on my car. My guess is that the exhaust runs thru the opening and then back to the rear. The only problem is that the exhaust pipe, with its many turns, won’t fit with the engine and body in place. Short of removing both, the only solution is to cut the pipe then weld it back together once installed.
Looking at the linked car in Terry’s 190 point car thread, it has the same bracket.
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I hooked up my exhaust system to everything when I first got it and thought it was wrong. What was wrong were the rear motor mounts that tilted engine higher in the back. Other than that, the new exhaust system from the company you suggested fit just fine, so I don't know what you are talking about cutting and rewelding. If you need, I will get the front pipe from my attic and put it on the car and take a picture for you.
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If you put the car on a lift you should be able to get the exhaust pipes in if they are made right.
Lee
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I think it's going to take a lift to get the pipe installed without cutting and rewelding. There's a custom exhaust shop about a mile from my shop so I'm going to have them install the system.
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That’s the best way to do it. The front section is very hard to bend properly. The manifold flange angle can be a problem so doing it at a muffler shop helps.
Lee
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Greetings...finally got the contractors to get the majority of their goodies out of the garage and made it in today..mine looks quite different with out the added sides with the holes. I do have the remnants of an exhaust hanger there. I’ll post the pics when I get home. The forum doesn’t support uploading pics from an iPhone:-/....that might be something to update!
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I've learned that the bracket with the holes was production update and most cars have it. I was able to thread the exhaust pipe into place by jacking up the car and removing the left front wheel. The height and extra space made the difference. Now all I have to do is wait for the engine to be finished at the rebuilder.
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the supplier must have changed something
they used the pipes that came off of my car to correct their mfg. fixture
Carl Hering supplied a pipe also
their muffler is the correct design also
they made a system for me and it fit without any problems, no jacking required
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Today was spent jockeying the newly rebuilt engine back into the Darrin. Surprisingly, installing the engine was much more difficult than removing it. It took four of us to get the engine positioned just right to meet the front motor mounts. Then, we spent nearly two hours trying to get he transmission cross member back in place and as of now, we've only succeeded in getting six of the eight cross member to frame nuts/bolts installed. This is obviously a much, much easier job with the body off the frame!
Now begins the time consuming task of reinstalling all of the bits and pieces that make the engine go.
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Looking Good !!!
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Much easier with the body off.
I probably don’t have to ask this but I can’t help myself you did put the round frame shims for the crossmember in the frame right. Usually the holes line up ok unless somehow the flanges got bent.
Looks great not much time before the convention (just kidding)
Good luck
Lee
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None of the frame shims (round tubes) came out when the bolts were removed. I do recall that when I removed the cross member, it popped out of the frame like it was sprung. Definitely an interference fit!
My progress so far - all of the linkage is back in place as is the clutch pedal mechanism. The OD solenoid, cover and wiring has been put together and I installed the driveshaft as well. When the rebuilder took the engine apart, he removed the rear oil line elbow on the side of the block. It took me an hour to get the elbow lined up just right to allow the line to thread in. I had to remove the valve inspection cover with the breather tube to make things work. That's been the most difficult item to reinstall - but I do still have the exhaust to deal with. Wish me luck there!
I hope to have the car move under it's own power - for the first time in 44 years - by this weekend.
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Good Job
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I commend you for tackling this job. Keep on keeping on it won’t be long now. Hope it is as much fun for you as it is for me. I have been Called out of my mind crazy for doing as many as I have done and now doing 3 at the same time.
Lee
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Two things I learned yesterday -
The exhaust pipe on a Darrin can only be installed with the engine out of the car. Fortunately, I had done that so I saved myself much time and heartache.
The exhaust system that Waldron's Exhaust puts together has the wrong size opening where it meets the manifold. The outlet on the manifold is 1 1/2", but the inlet on the pipe from Waldron's is 1 3/4". Not so bad except there's a 1/8" lip on the pipe that's to fit into the manifold as a seal. I ended up grinding the lip off to make things work. The bolt holes lined right up and a double gasket will avoid leaks.
All that's left now is to install the throttle linkage and oil filter and we'll see what happens when I turn the key!
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obviously they changed something 'cause mine bolted correctly to the manifold
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So I’ve run into a brick wall. The engine is back in the car and all of the accessories are on the engine. I hooked up a battery and cranked the car to circulate some oil. I then dumped a little fuel down the carb and tried to start the engine. It cranks about a half dozen revolutions and then backfires. That sounds like timing to me... I think the distributor is 180 degrees off. I did not set the timing or install the distributor, that was done by the rebuilder.
What do you think?
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Jim, did the builder make the cardinal mistake of installing the plug wires assuming clockwise rotation? Even though I know better, I've still done that and had to pop myself in the forehead. (DOH!)
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It could be wires reversed or it could just be a couple teeth off. I think the manual could be more precise than it is, but maybe it's just me. Find #1 TDC on compression, your rotor should be somewhere close to 5 o'clock.
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I sent the engine for rebuild with the wires removed so I know he didn’t make that mistake. He did time the distributor so it is where it should be when #1 is at TDC (actually 5 before). Either I messed up the wiring order or the oil pump timing is off. Let’s hope it’s the former!
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I spoke to the rebuilder and he times off the one o'clock mark for his f-head engines. So, I reset the spark plug wires and the engine started right up. It has 60 lbs of oil pressure and idles nicely. Next up, put a timing light to it and dial things in.
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The rebuilder gave me some of the old parts. The bearings had minimal wear but I can't say the same for the pistons...
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Wow. Good thing you had it rebuilt. Pistons like that can do a lot of damage if they break up further.
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the supplier must have changed something
they used the pipes that came off of my car to correct their mfg. fixture
Carl Hering supplied a pipe also
their muffler is the correct design also
they made a system for me and it fit without any problems, no jacking required
this is what Waldron's pipe look like, along side my original pipe, before they came out to my place and corrected their fixture
obviously something went south since then
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I should have taken a picture of my pipe before installation. It looks much like the pictured original but has a slightly broader curve where it turns to run towards the rear of the car. I had to cut the circular brackets on my car to get the pipe to fit, and as I mentioned earlier, I had to grind off the lip where the pipe flange meets the manifold. I'm going to call Waldron's just to make them aware. I did get the system fully mounted and it looks good...now all that's left is to get the car to idle. I think the carb is in need of attention so it looks like I'll be taking it to Youngstown for a rebuild.
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In other threads, folks have mentioned Benchwick Carburetor in Youngstown, Ohio as a source for carb rebuilds. Fortunately, I live about an hour away so I took the Darrin unit to them today. Housed in a former gas station, when I pulled in this afternoon, the proprietor was fine tuning the carb on a 41 Packard. He took one look at my carburetor and knew it was a Willys unit and said he'd have it ready in a few days. Apparently, a couple of hemi carbs were in for service so they're first in line.
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i would be very interested in what the service costs
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Let me know what they charge...I should have given you mine to take as well... :-)
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Noah,
Let Us know how it turns Out.
Sometimes this Day Its hard to find good Carbonator rebuilders. Today so much fuel injection.
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We have a retired Mechanic out here named Carburetor Carl. He works on the Pebble Beach type vehicles and collections like Jay Leno's!! He did my carburetor for both my Darrin and the Traveler. I felt very fortunate to have him available to work on my carbs.
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The carburetor is back and looks great...like new. Well worth the price paid.
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Very nice. Final test will be how it runs, but if it runs as good as it looks, you should not have a problem! :)
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Turned the key and the car started right up. Idles smoothly...all that's left is to reinstall the hood and a few odds and ends and away we go!
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Yeah!!! another one on the road again!!!
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I took the Darrin out for its first run in 44 years yesterday. The engine ran well and it seems to track nicely down the road. The overdrive doesn't want to work...I think the relay is bad so that's today's work, and I lost an NOS hub cap 500 feet from the house, but other than that all went well.
Fortunately, my keen eyed wife found the cap this morning laying at the end of someone's driveway so the tragedy of a lost cap was averted.
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I know how that feels.
The first drive in my father's car after 42 years brought goosebumps!
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Are we going to be able to see this at Kingsport?
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I will not be bringing the car to this year's meet due to other commitments both before and after the meet. The Brand X will be getting quite a workout!
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I took the Darrin out for its first run in 44 years yesterday. The engine ran well and it seems to track nicely down the road. The overdrive doesn't want to work...I think the relay is bad so that's today's work, and I lost an NOS hub cap 500 feet from the house, but other than that all went well.
Fortunately, my keep eyed wife found the cap this morning laying at the end of someone's driveway so the tragedy of a lost cap was averted.
Very nice! The carb guy made your carb look brand new too.
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Here is a few pic's..
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For the first time in 44 years, the Darrin traveled under its own power for more than a test drive. I took the car to a local show (250 cars) and it was a huge hit. Two different people stopped to tell me that they had a relative who was a KF dealer and neither ever saw a Darrin come thru the showroom. The show organizers told me it was the most photographed car at today's event. I didn't win an award...I'm no trophy chaser anyway...but I did enjoy talking with quite a few people about KF and the club. The Corvette guy next told me to park elsewhere next time because no one stopped to look at his car!
Today was proof that getting your car out and about is the best way to build awareness of our cars. I really enjoyed the day - I've included a couple of photos...one shows a small crowd gathered around the car.
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I was told by a Corvette owner, when I was still driving my Darrin, that many years ago they (a corvette club, don't know which one) had a "Fiberglass" event with hundreds of vettes and two Darrins. No one looked at the Corvettes, they were all looking at the Darrins. That never happened again, corvette meets are for corvette cars only.
When you get it painted, you will be winning award after award, especially if there is a peoples choice award!!! Be prepared!!!
Maybe I could give my talk on Henry J. Kaiser at our National, I did it for one of our local meets and everyone loved it. It'll take about a half hour with all the questions I usually get. I've already done the research and would share with others for them to share at meets.
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On Tuesday evenings a local car club hosts a car cruise. They've been doing it for about 20 years and the show draws around 750 cars. Barry Meguire (Meguire's car products) has been to the show and Jay Leno's promised a stop as well. I took the Darrin a couple weeks ago and they parked me near the front (I'm usually relegated to the middle rows) and the car drew lots of attention.
An interesting thing happened about half way thru the evening. A fellow parked a new Lamborghini next to me and every Millenial at the show gravitated to the car and everyone else bypassed it for the Darrin. I guess I now know what kids today like...
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I recently acquired a rare accessory for my Darrin - one of the original style hardtops. It came from the estate of a long-deceased member and I was able to pick it up yesterday. It needs work but does include the impossible to find rear plexiglass window. What I need now are photos of the attaching points on the top as this one only has the rear center tab in place. There are no snaps or holes in the front of the top so I have no idea how to attach it to the car. I'm also looking for detailed photos of the rear side windows and how they mount to the top...I do have one piece of U shaped window channel still attached.
Any help is appreciated!
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That's pretty cool. I scored one for the Healey years ago, sans the rear plexiglass though. It used small turnbuckle hooks to attach to the studs at the corners of the windshield frame the convertible latched to, also to the ******pit edges at the rear.
There's a cleaner/polish called Plexus Plexiglass cleaner that would help your rear window. I used it on the clear roll-up windows in boat canvas. Not cheap but good stuff, I think originally an aircraft window cleaner.
Holy cow, I posted and immediately see I violated a language parameter. So be creative here and think of another word for...…… rooster...……… and add "pit". A term used a LOT in sports cars and aircraft ;D
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What a find!!!
Don't you have pictures of that recently resort Darrin at the Prescott,AZ nationals with the hardtop or are they different? If you don't, I do and can send them when I get home on Monday, I'm in Maine till then. Just let me know.
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I missed the car in Prescott by five minutes os yes, please send them when you can. Thanks!
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Got the pictures, thanks. Next question for those with cars with a hardtop, what gasket did you use for the rear window?
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While wandering the swap meet at Hershey this year I found a set of baskets for my wire wheel covers. They are a much closer fit than what I had before but the cap does sit a bit less than a quarter inch from the wheel rim. Can anyone tell me if the cap is to contact the rim and if not what the clearance is? I’ve attached a few pictures of the newly found baskets. They’re marked 87-4...if your car has wire covers, what number is on your baskets?