Kaiser Frazer Owners Club Forum
General Category => Henry J & Allstate Forum => Topic started by: hxcbill on March 12, 2016, 02:22:05 PM
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hello all
New to the forum. I own a 1952 Henry J corsair Deluxe. It was restored a few years ago my father in law. he past away a couple of years ago and left the car to my 4 yo daughter. So basically, ill be taking care of it until shes old enough for it.
Anyway, the car ran great for a while but I started having issues with it last fall. I left it alone for the winter and am now just getting back to it. Hoping some of you can help me out here.
Currently I cannot get it started. I can see that its flooding the intake as Gas is just pooling up down there. I definitely have spark. I have new plugs and wires on it as well. Before this all happened, it would start and idle normally but when i would rev the engine it would sputter at the higher rpms. I replaced the points,and the condenser but symptom hasn't changed. after a while of trying to figure that out, it stopped starting all together. I rebuilt the carb and gave it a thorough cleaning as well. Float is set to the factory spec too. I did have an issue with the fuel pump hitting the carb at about 8 psi so we replaced it with another pump we had and its now getting about 4 psi.
any ideas?
thank you
photo of her below
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It needs 4 things to start and run properly - fuel, spark, compression and correctly timed ignition. It's unlikely the ignition timing changed but it might be worth checking. A six cylinder should be set right on TDC. I once had the fiber timing gear in my J get crumbled but if that happened, you'd have no spark. A quick test is to pull the cap, run the starter and see if the rotor rotates.
Another thing to check - you mentioned new plug wires. The HJ rotor turns counter clockwise so make sure the wires are in the correct sequence going counter clockwise. Connecting them backwards is an easy mistake to make. Even if the wires are backwards, the car will often start but just run like crap.
You have a nice looking car there - it needs to be running. I hope we can provide you the guidance you need.
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high speed sputtering can be caused by a failing coil, considering that all other changes were done.
make sure you have a good ground on that battery cable.
goto a tractor supply place for a 6 volt coil.... comparatively cheap
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I can attest to what Terry is saying. My '51 Kaiser sputtered and coughed to the point where I couldn't drive it. A new coil fixed it. I got it at NAPA, NAPA ECH IC7 for $25. Problem solved.
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Thanks all
I'm going to pick up a new coil. After playing around with it yesterday, I now have very intermittent spark at the points.
Tractor supply you say?
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any tractor supply place since old tractors are 6 volt and many positive ground
I use TSC .
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Just use this part number for reference.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-T-Series-UC14T-Ignition-Coil-/381568782595?hash=item58d7459103:g:27gAAOxy3NBSh67M&vxp=mtr
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This one from Tractor supply?
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tisco-ignition-coil-396546r93
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That looks like the one. As mentioned in my post, I got mine at NAPA and it works great. They may cost less from a tractor supplier. When I checked at my local Fleet Farm, they were more expensive than the ones NAPA has.
Be sure to connect the positive terminal of the coil to the distributor and the negative to the ignition switch, assuming your car is still the original positive ground. That's something else you might check - all KF products, including the Henry J, were originally 6 volt Positive ground. A lot of people now-a-days don't know this so yours may have been switched and that may do damage over time.
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yup, its still positive ground.
Ill update when i pick up the new coil and install it.
Thanks again everyone. Im new to old cars and im learning as I go along with this one. Its my intention to keep this car running and in great condition. As well as original as possible.
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Over all, the Henry J is pretty easy to keep running. If I can do it, anyone can!
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Nice looking Henry J. It made me go out to the garage to make sure you didn't have ours. LOL
My car is the same, however I run the small hubcaps and beauty rings instead of full hubcaps.
Welcome to the forum!
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Well, new coil, new points, a couple of new wire connectors, and still no spark at the points. I'm thinking a bad wire somewhere grounding out or something. Once in a while I'll get an initial spark when first turning over but then nothing at all. I think I'm losing it. Lol
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Check the wire inside the distributor. That can wear bare and cause problems too. Here's what I found in my '51 Kaiser last summer when it kept sputtering and dying. Check both ends of that wire too as it may be brittle and loose on the ends.
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Yeh, mine was pretty bad. I replaced it and still no dice. I gave up on it for the day. Next chance I have I'll do continuity checks on all the wires involved. May have to just replace them. Anybody have a good source for cloth wireing?
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Bob McBride not only sells complete wiring harness but lengths of wire to meet your needs.
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Bob McBride not only sells complete wiring harness but lengths of wire to meet your needs.
Where do I find his contact info?
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http://www.kaiserbill.com/page18.html ... 8)
KF Club member Robert McBride makes wiring harness' for KF cars.
His number is: 772-466-3510
5/600 bucks...?...
keep reading
http://www.henryjcars.com/hjc7/partspage/Partspage.html
Robert BcBride Wire Harnesses
Makes the wire harness for your Henry J, Allstate and Kaiser cars.
A better original match for your car cannot be found anywere.
I bought one complete front to rear. I would call it perfect.
He can sell you any part of the harness or he can make the complete unit.
Robert McBride
81 Ipanema
Ft. Pierce, FL 34951
Phone (772) 466-3510 < New phone
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So I replace a couple of bad wires and now have spark again. Woohoo. Still having issues starting though. When it actually does start it'll only run if I have the peddle to the floor and it'll run really really rough.
I did see the carb is leaking now too. Ugh. Looks like from the bottom of the plunger.
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Have you replaced the pump diaphragm in the carb? It's NAPA Echlin 2-4218 or Hygrade C203-5 and can make a world of a difference. If you do take the carb apart, beware of the little "BB" like check valve that often falls out. Although I think the diaphragm can be replaced without removing the carb but I don't remember right off hand. It's been awhile since I've done it, probably because the new ones can handle the modern gasoline whereas the original ones couldn't.
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I did replace that. Is there a check valve/ball inside that pump? Maybe that's my issue.
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This ball seems stuck here. Won't budge https://flic.kr/p/ENJfwW
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I'm looking in the shop manual and the Motor's manual and I don't see that one. It could be it.
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I can't seem to find any info on whether there's supposed to be a check ball there or not. And like I said, this one seems stuck in there. Not sure how I'm gonna even knock it out.
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If I ever get out to where my parts are located, I'll grab a spare and see if I can tell anything. I'll let you know.
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Thank you
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Got that check ball out. Put in a different float needle and seat. Car started right up and carb doesnt leak anymore.
I Still an issue though. Idles ok but when i give it gas, it wants to die. Then eventually will. I can see gas squirt down throat when i give it gas so the accelerator pump sems to be workng well. Thinking im still having an ignition issue?
Its really tuff to diagnose and repair a car that has both ignition and carb issues at the same time. Im banging my head now.
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BOOM!!!
Threw in the first set of points and shes running now. Just took her for a spin. The napa points i had put in it were junk.
Feeling good now.
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Check the point gap and timing. I had this issue with mine once and adjusting the points took care of it. If your car has a Delco-Remy distributor, the shop manual and other specs say to set the point gap at .022 but that never worked well for me. I set mine at .020 (as most are) and it runs much better.
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When I finished my post, the app said someone else had posted just before I did. Looks like you got it and it was the same issue I had! Great news.
If it wasn't in the 30s here today, I'd be driving mine too.
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I've been having some vaguely similar-ish running issues lately since I've had the HJ out driving again. It's inconsistent, but I've had a number of times where, as I'm slowing down (actually braking) the car dies when I come to a stop, or when I'm just barely rolling still. Good example: Driving along in 3rd, slow down to take a corner, drop it down into 2nd, and POOF, no more runny-runny. The car is idling a bit high right now, that much I know, but I'm not really a "car guy" in the sense of being able to diagnose engine issues...
Any thoughts?