Kaiser Frazer Owners Club Forum
General Category => Kaiser Forum => Topic started by: JoeKeys2010 on April 02, 2016, 06:19:54 PM
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Started the process of removing the engine for replacement or rebuild. Bought a new cherry picker and all. Excited to jump on this new project. Once done I will have rebuilt or restored everything but the transmission and rear end.
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A new project is always an excellent
excuse reason to expand the tool collection!
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Skipped out of work early so I could work on the Kaiser. Managed to remove the hood, disconnect hoses, wires and linkage. I've got the transmission unbolted but have not slid it off the motor yet. The Cherry Picker has been assembled. Not long now and the motor will be out.
I've been a Ford guy all my life but I'm amazed how easy the Kaiser is to work on. Very easy to get to the motor mounts, exhaust and so forth.
So ready to get the motor built or replaced and drive it again.
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Well ran Ito my first snag. The cherry picker I have does not have a long enough arm to get directly over the motor do as I lift it brings the motor forward and into the radiator shroud. I can't pull from an overhead beam so I'm going to have to make a longer price of square tubing so as to get the cherry picker directly over the motor. I won't be able to do that until Monday do a slight delay.
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I've got one that has an extendable boom and legs for the front rollers. Sometimes I'll extend the boom to get over something the rollers can't get under and I can tell you there is a limit, pass that and the thing will end up on it's nose pretty quick with your load down on the floor. You can pile weight on the back to compensate but it's still flirting with instability. I'm not saying your plan won't work, just sharing some "been there done that" info.
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I appreciate your insight and know what you are talking about. I don't need that much more length so maybe I'll get lucky. Ive got an A frame I can borrow from work if I have to.
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Safety first guys, safety first!!
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Someting else I should've mentioned is that the rated capacity of my picker fully extended (maybe 30 inches?) is only 25 percent of it's short boom rating.
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That is about right.
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It is out!! I'll get it on an engine stand tomorrow and start breaking it down to see what went wrong.
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In preparation for mounting the motor to an engine stand I removed the bell housing, starter, clutch and flywheel today. Would have had it mounted but only had 3 1/2" 7/16 grade 8 bolts which are about 1/2 inch too long. I'll post some photos tomorrow.
My 23 year old son helped me pull the motor and so forth. It's been nice having him in the garage and to do it over a Kaiser is a plus. His great grandfather once owned a KF distributorship so having a family connection is kind of neat too.
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Started tearing down the motor today. I don't have the head off just yet but I looked in the side of the motor and did not see any bent rods. I drained the oil, it is very dark and given the car does not have that many miles on it, the oil should look new. I rolled the motor over and removed the oil pan and didn't find hardly any medal shavings but did find something curious in the bottom of the oil pan. (see photo two). I cleaned a piece of the stuff off and dried it (see picture three).
Next I turned the motor over via the crank. It truns over easily but when the center of the crank rolls over I hear a noise. I noticed the shinny part on the crank (see photo four). Not sure if that is normal or not.
Still plan on taking to a shop to see if it can be rebuilt. Any guesses on what is going on?
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The problem may be excessive clearance on one or more of the bearings. Before you disassemble the engine, check the clearance on each bearing with Plastigage to determine if the clearance is too much. Normally it is the front main that wears out first because it is the furthest from the oil pump and it does not get enough oil.
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I noticed that the center stud for the manifolds (picture 1) is not different. the others and there for had no nut on it both of mine are the same way and it is not broken off
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Not sure what you mean. None of my studs are broke off and are actually in good shape.
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Sorry Linda called me for dinner and I never got back to correct my post. the center stud on picture (1) between the two exhaust ports should be longer than all the others. in your picture it seems to be the same as the rest of them if it is the same there is no way to put a nut on it the manifold is to thick there. if it is used as a dowel pin there is no holding power to it. the center is stud is part # (2033570) the other 8 center studs are part # (203611) and the end ones are part #(200312). unless you have the 1 barrel carburetor then forget all I have written.
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Joekeyes, it's been a couple of months. Do you have any updates?
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No updates. Local folks wanted 5K to rebuild the motor which is crazy. I did find a motor in Thomasville Alabama but have not had the time to get up there and pick it up. I dreamed of the car last night and then saw it in a move on YouTube so now I am fired up to get back on the car. It is a beautiful car to me.
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VT2000driver I'll have to check that out. I don't remember it missing a nut or a stud that did not come through the manifold but you may be right. I'll look and let you know.
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I remember he said that when I bought the car. Kind of afraid to pull it and put it in the good car.