Messages

1

Parts For Sale & Wanted / K51 Hydramatic gear shift lever parts wanted

« on: February 06, 2017, 04:12:34 PM »

Bob & Char Dayton did help me already on some parts for my K51 Rotterdam build. However I am still looking for the gear shift lever (metallic stick only needed) and the two half of the gear shift indicator box. see picture attached with the blue arrows indicating the missing parts. Any feedback re parts or dealers is welcome. Thanks in advance.

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Parts For Sale & Wanted / Re: Gear Shift Lever for K52 with Hydramatic

« on: September 22, 2016, 05:10:35 AM »

@idladyvt: I haven't received an e-mail yet from you, can you offer me the parts wanted? Would be sure interested having it. Color does not need to match.
Thanks

3

Parts For Sale & Wanted / Re: Gear Shift Lever for K52 with Hydramatic

« on: September 17, 2016, 03:44:12 PM »

Thanks Gordi, much appreciated. I have met Rudy at the Kaiser Conventions too. Will contact him.
Best regards!

4

Parts For Sale & Wanted / Gear Shift Lever for K52 with Hydramatic

« on: September 17, 2016, 01:20:26 PM »

I need a complete hydramatic gear shift lever including the box. It is a single range hydramatic for my K52 Europe edition. Color seems to be Kaiser Garden Green Metallic.

Following components are needed:
- Gear shift lever incl knob
- Shaft for gear shift (goes down the steering column)
- the box with bracket and cover
- the metal plate (ring, contains the flasher switch)
- Coverplate to cover the cables on the steering column)

Does anybody know where I could get this items? Shipment oversea to Switzerland Europe is necessary.
See attached two pictures taken from the parts manual (see the marked items) and a sample from my K51 (same items used in my K52 Europe Edition).
Thanks!

5

Kaiser Forum / K51 Front brake drum jamming (blockade)

« on: June 20, 2011, 04:22:19 AM »

It happened now several times recently that on my K51 the right front brake drum was jamming hard (kind of blockade) when I just tipped on the brake pedal. Mostly when the car stood for a couple of weeks. I cannot unlock it again, except I drive backward. The brake adjustment is proper, had always a nicely balanced braking rate. Master and wheelcylinder are obviously dry, no liquid leakage visible. brakehosing is intact too. brakeshoes and lining looks thick enough when I check through the inspection gap. Does anyone know if this is a known phenomenon with Kaiser 51? Thanks and regards, Adrian, Bülach - Switzerland

 

6

Kaiser Forum / Re: Front wheel alignement

« on: April 28, 2011, 06:19:42 AM »

Thanks Jim and dpledger for your input. I use a whitewall tyre from BF Goodrich Silverton w/w 6.70-15 tubeless 4-ply which is to my knowledge still a bias type tyre. Runs smooth, I can recommend it. Since the right shoulder of the right front tyre is wore out, I guess this just needs a few turns on the linkage to adjust that. I guess I just have once to install a gauge and try to find some solution based on the figures I get.   

7

Kaiser Forum / Front wheel alignement

« on: April 27, 2011, 06:21:20 AM »

Since my front tires improperly weared out (right shoulder profile used up first), I need to re-align the front wheels. The guy in the shop says he just can do it with proper data for the adjustments. In the KF shopmanual for the K51, page 164 to 168 I can get some information about how to do it. But I cannot find any proper data information, except certain figures in degrees (like on page 165 point c. Caster checking and adjustment, saying "desired reading is zero with plus or minus 1 degree permissible). Since I do not have the original camber and caster gauge (see page 165, Fig. 246) I cannot be sure if this alignement description is still usable today. Anybody from you can give me some data about the subject? Thanks a lot, Kaiserly, Adrian from Bülach, Switzerland (Member 6103)

8

General Discussion / Re: Oil seal L226

« on: April 13, 2010, 04:56:54 PM »

You could try to leave the engine installed and take off the oilpan only. However this is not recommended: 

The original upper rear main seal was rope and is lightly pressed into a channel in the upper half of the seal holder. The best way is to remove the crankshaft and replace the seal and block with the newer style neoprene. You should not have to completely remove the crnk from the engine, just lift it enough to get the seal block out. Of course, you will have to remove the main caps to do it.
Another way is to use a soft wire to push the old seal out. Then, using a tool called a "sneaky pete", you can insert a new rope seal. This works well on Chevrolet's and other GM and Ford cars, but isn't as easy on a Kaiser engine. It is important that you not scratch the seal surface on the crank or else it will leak.
Good luck!

I did not try the "sneaky pete" as indicated but did remove the engine completely from the car. Seems to work so far!
Good luck!

9

General Discussion / Re: Oil seal L226

« on: April 05, 2010, 02:48:54 PM »

I just finished the replacement of the rear main seal on my K51's 6-226 engine. I followed Joe Frazers tip to lift off a bit the crankshaft, however was quite some work to do so. As I purchased some 3 original engine gasket sets from Fred Walker many years ago, I used the old "technology", i.e. the waxed rope kind seal. The old staff did last more than 25 years (I bought the car in 1985), so why not again 25 years? Next weekend I will install engine and Hydramatic attached to it. Thanks for your tips!  Kaiserly, Adrian Birrer, Switzerland (KFOCI # 6103)

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General Discussion / Re: Oil seal L226

« on: January 28, 2010, 08:21:49 AM »

Thanks Joe, I guess you're right. Better do it properly otherwise I have the risk that it starts leaking again.

11

General Discussion / Oil seal L226

« on: January 26, 2010, 04:14:20 PM »

Hi, I own a K51 Deluxe and a K52 Manhattan, both export cars from US. The K51 is running since 1987 very well where the K52 is still in restoration. 10 years ago I installed hardened outlet valves and seats on the K51 to use leadfree fuel and it works just fine. Now there is a very disturbing motor oil leak occuring at the rear seal (obviously a very known problem). I got the engine out, separated the Hydramatic shifting and took the oilpan off, then the Crankshaft rear filler block. Now, to replace the lower half oil seal is easy, but how to replace the upper half? The guard holding the seal is installed tight beneath the crankshaft. Do I need to take the whole crankshaft off (I prefer not to), or is there a way to push/pull out the old seal and push in the new seal? I doubt that this would work. Who of you people has experience in doing this? Thanks for any remarks on this issue.