Messages

1

Kaiser Forum / Re: Got my 53 deluxe resprayed and distributor problem

« on: April 24, 2018, 09:24:00 PM »

That is actually 2 bits appearing frozen together. The thingy with the clamp is the distributor advance arm, which attaches to the base of the distributor. The lower section is the distributor mount, which bolts onto the head and to which the advance arm attaches. The combination determines the ignition timing, and is therefore a big deal.

The mounts had a tendancy to break where the bolt hole for the head is, and might be hard to find as a result. The advance arms are fairly common. Need to be careful in getting one for a 52 or 3 Delco distributor, as the 51's tend to be autolite and don't interchange. There is  a fix for broken mounts, but from your pic it may be too late.

2

Kaiser Forum / Re: Horn ring center

« on: April 19, 2018, 08:52:50 PM »

Two people help-one putting full pressure and the other turning. If you have an old canning jar lid remover (with a rubber gasket on the inside) You can just get it over the center, then turn hard while helper presses on the center. A padded large angled pliers works also.

3

Kaiser Forum / Re: Courtesy Lights

« on: April 05, 2018, 09:11:16 PM »

The front doors should operate the two lights under the dash- do these work OK?

4

Kaiser Forum / Re: Courtesy Lights

« on: April 02, 2018, 09:30:30 PM »

Are we talking 54 early or late special? The early were left over 53's, and on these it depends on the model that was converted.  For the Manhattans, which I think 54 early Specials were based on, only the rear doors operate the lights.  For '53 deluxes, all four doors operate them.  Had a 54 early once and it worked like a '53 Manhattan. Late specials probably did too, but not sure.

5

Kaiser Forum / Re: NOS dud plugs

« on: November 04, 2017, 10:50:45 PM »

Thanks for all the info. Will get to replacing with 8C's asap. Still puzzled as to why even carbon cored plugs would lose it in sealed storage. Guess maybe I never used such in a case where it had been sitting very long.

6

Kaiser Forum / Re: NOS dud plugs

« on: November 03, 2017, 10:27:32 PM »

These are marked Champion J8 The ceramic has 2 ribs above the Champion and 3 below. The bases are bright, and there is a made in USA and 322 engraved. These looked like the plugs I always used in antiquity, which weren't carbon core. These, now that you mention it, behave as tho they were carbon. I'm now thinking that these are sort of an intermediate age, after carbon started being used. Still wondering why they would deteriorate so fast after being installed even if carbon.

Have noted the J8C's, but wasn't sure if they would perform exactly like the old J8's, being sort of put off by the lawnmower applications. Need to do something, as these are going fast. Maybe after 60 years of using them in the car I should move to Autolites?

7

Kaiser Forum / NOS dud plugs

« on: October 20, 2017, 09:35:44 PM »

Completing my long restoration of '53 Manhattan, I put in NOS Champion J8 plugs that I found online. Were all sealed and looked fine. After only a couple of hundred miles I have had to replace 2, and now things seem to be running rough again. One actually had a little spark going under the boot, and the other had developed quite a lot of resistance. I'm surprised that a plug could deteriorate when sealed in the original container. Has anyone else experienced this effect?

8

General Discussion / Re: Lead or not?

« on: August 29, 2017, 08:35:53 PM »

As stated, two issues, valve deterioration and ethanol depredation. Hardened seats  and valves have eliminated the first. The second is easily finessed by using non ethanol fuel, not that hard to find, at least around here. It is more expensive, but the mileage improvement pretty much makes up for it. We use it in our modern cars as well as the Kaiser (plus every small engine we own.) Ethanol can wreack havoc with a car of any age, hygroscopic as it is.  It also lowers the mileage, and the higher octane ratings it produces do not appear to be entirely legitimate. A couple back there were warnings sent out for our Audi to not use ethanol during that cold winter, as it was freezing up the fuel pumps inside the tank.

Ethanol is also an ecological disaster- net carbon footprint of production and burning exceeds that of real gasoline.  Corn is for eating, not powering your car.

Stick with non ethanol and you will have no problems, assuming your valves are hardened.

9

Kaiser Forum / Re: Steering on our 1953 Dragon

« on: March 05, 2017, 10:39:51 PM »

I got NOS springs from Rudy Phillips-not sure if he still has any in stock. The part number in the books is  208368, with no differentiation for one being stiffer. Seems they were marked with paint the color of which indicated relative stiffness. When I got the pair I rigged up a device involving another car and jack , and did determine that one was stiffer, so put that one on drivers side. Seems nicely balanced now. Seems I saw some lore once that indicated it was an inexact science, where one got a pair that were a bit different and determined which was the stronger.

Not sure how much impact not doing this would have, but seemed better to get it right. I concur that old grease in fittings does mess up handling, which is why I opted to replace them all. It is important to get the wheels balanced correctly and the toe in, caster, and camber right. These can really mess up handling if not done correctly.

10

General Discussion / Re: Man, that's heavy!

« on: March 04, 2017, 11:55:59 PM »

Trunk lid on my '53 lifts with one finger-the 52 mechanism was different, but never was aware of much difference in performance. Would expect you have a hinge issue.

11

Kaiser Forum / Re: Steering on our 1953 Dragon

« on: March 04, 2017, 11:53:29 PM »

I just rebuilt my 53 Manhattan-replaced springs all around, all suspension elements, shocks, sway bar insulators, etc, so should be back to original specs. New tires, and wheels correctly aligned. One complaint is a bit of steering wander. All steering elements are in spec, and I have concluded that the defect is vintage. As our drivers are a BMW and Audi of recent vintage, I expect it is the contrast that is causing the wandering feeling. I'm not sure that you could do much about this without completely replacing the suspension with a modern one, and of course such a kit is not available. Sway isn't a problem with mine-you might replace the insulators if there is looseness there.

When replacing front springs, be aware that the driver's side spring is speced a bit stiffer than the other, to compensate for the added weight of the battery, starter, generator, steering box, etc. Not sure new replacements always take that into account

12

Kaiser Forum / Re: rain leaks into car through '53 Kaiser heater box

« on: November 08, 2016, 11:23:25 PM »

Well, I had a leak going into the heater box too- checked the core and seemed tight. Finally got around to pressurizing it and then it leaked

13

General Discussion / Re: HEAD LIGHT SWITCH REPAIR

« on: November 01, 2016, 08:48:56 PM »

Sometimes polishing will fix this problem-get some very fine abrasive sheet between the arm and the coil and clean them up. If the coil is broken, this will not work. You can tap into the point on the coil corresponding to brightness you want, and then short this. Also could by pass the coil and substitute a fixed resister corresponding to the brightness you want.

14

Kaiser Forum / Re: temp gauge reads hot on '53 Kaiser

« on: August 25, 2016, 10:28:33 PM »

You can check both the sender and the gauge. The manual lists the resistance the unit should have at what temperatures. Put the unit, attached to a VOM, in a pan of water you are heating along with an accurate thermometer. This will allow you to see if the calibration is correct. Then you can replace the sending unit with a variable resistor and dial in the resistance that should give you a particular reading. If these check out, then you can look at the voltage regulator, as suggested above.

One can also check the thermostat by placing in a pan of water with a thermometer and heating. Observe whether the full open point is correct.

15

General Discussion / Re: Leaking Water Pump

« on: August 06, 2016, 10:40:24 PM »

Did you replace the hoses as well? A leak of that size seems more likely from hoses. Removing and replacing old hoses can cause problems. I once had a leak comparable to yours in a Wagoneer, and it proved to be a slit in the hose that couldn't be seen unless you pressed on it. Just moving old hoses around can cause leaks. If the hoses are new, check to see if positioned properly and tightened adequately.

Otherwise, there are two pump gaskets that can leak, plus the bushing. Was the kit new or NOS? Sometimes seals don't hold up that well over time. I'd carefully dry off any fluid, then start the engine and watch carefully. With that much loss you should be able to trace it.