Author Topic: Working on Brakes  (Read 2565 times)

kwsranger

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Working on Brakes
« on: October 14, 2009, 05:02:16 PM »
I am trying to get the drivers front wheel to roll on my 53 Henry J. It is froze and won't move. How does the hub come off? I tried to ask a few old timers in the area here and when I tell them I have a Henry J they say "Henry who???". All other wheels roll just fine, I do need to order all of the parts that "fid" said to get on another post. Thanks for your help. Kyle Shaw

HJ-ETEX

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Re: Working on Brakes
« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2009, 05:50:04 PM »
kwsranger: You need to be glad it is a FRONT hub and not a rear hub. Pop the cap/dust cover/ of the hub off - OH I guess that could be your trouble - there isn't a cap and the end of the spindle, outer bearing, and hub have all rusted. Let's hope that isn't the case. Remove the cotter pin on the caselated nut and remove the nut. Gentlely pry between the edge of the brake drum and the backing plate and -hopefully- the outer bearing will move out to where it can be removed. Once that happens, you can be more energetic in prying between the drum and backing plate because there is more play. 
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Fid

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Re: Working on Brakes
« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2009, 06:55:27 PM »
Here's a photo. 

One big problem is the pistons in the wheel cylinder are aluminum and the cylinder is cast iron. If it sat a long time, they corrode and stick together and it can be a lot of work to get them freed up. In any case, the drum should come off with a bit of prying as HJ mentions. Once you get it off, remove the shoes by first removing that top spring. You need a lot strength and leverage to unhook the spring but once you do, the shoes will come right off. Then remove the rubber boots on the end of the wheel cylinder and use a large punch and a large hammer to drive the pistons out. They will be tight so don't be afraid to hit it good. When they're out, hone the cylinder and see if it's pitted - more often than not they aren't pitted so if they aren't, put the wheel cylinder back together (new rubber cups are recommended) and you're done. When re-installing the castled nut, I usually install the drum, then the outer bearing, the metal seal then tighten the nut so the hub does not wobble. Spin the drum and tighten the nut till it stops spinning, then back it off so the cotter pin hole lines up with the first slot it can. Then spin it again to make sure there's no drag. If there isn't install the cotter pin and tap the dust cover back on. Repeat on the other side!  The rear ones require a puller to remove.
« Last Edit: October 06, 2016, 10:58:55 PM by Fid »
1953 Henry J Corsair Deluxe
Edgar Kaiser's custom 1951 Henry J
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