Author Topic: In need of a 226 Filler Block-Rear  (Read 2310 times)

jerussel

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In need of a 226 Filler Block-Rear
« on: April 06, 2010, 09:50:07 PM »

I have no idea how this part got bent...  but it did.  When attached to the block, the filler actually leans toward the front of the engine.  Weird.  Anyway, this is the rear filler block that attaches to the block, that the pan rests on and carries the bottom crank seal.  I believe it's part # 207147 for a '51 Frazer 226 Supersonic.

I'm trying to get the engine back together.  I had a stripped rod cap bolt and fixed that and a couple of other minor issues.  So, now I need to find a filler block!  Anyone out there have one I can buy?
Thanks,
John
207147

dusty

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Re: In need of a 226 Filler Block-Rear
« Reply #1 on: April 13, 2010, 10:22:30 PM »
Ed Ewing , the mechanic that rebuilds 226 engines for the club has a stack of the warped  filler blocks. Every engine that hi has done required the new replacement with neoprene seals. I donot know where he has gotten them but I do know that they have been obsoleted.

jerussel

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Re: In need of a 226 Filler Block-Rear
« Reply #2 on: April 14, 2010, 07:43:23 PM »
Thanks for the info.
As it happens, I was able to straighten the one I have. 
Nerve-wracking using a hammer on one of those aluminum filler blocks, but it worked.
On to the timing chain, adjusting the valves, the head, etc...
What fun... ;D

Steveaz

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Re: In need of a 226 Filler Block-Rear
« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2010, 03:44:34 PM »
Hi Actually I have nothin gbut questions. I just bought a 1947 Frazer. It runs, but #3 has 0 compression and smokes big time. I am going to try and rebuild the engine and keep the car as origianal as possible.  Any help or leads in the right direction would be great. Just registered on this site and not manuvering around well in it yet.  It has a straight 6  I have no clue where to buy parts etc.

Thank you

Fid

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Re: In need of a 226 Filler Block-Rear
« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2010, 04:27:01 PM »
The 226 CID is notorious for burning the number 3 or number 4 exhaust valves. If I remember right, they are right next to each other with no water jacket between them and that can happen. That's likely the issue. Usuallly it just requires lapping the seat and replacing the valve but I've had some where the seat did require a replacement. Back in those days (the early 1980s) a machine shop would come by my place and replace the seat there while the engine was still in the car. I don't know if you can still get that service.  Pull the head and burned valve will be quite obvious if that is the case.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2010, 02:24:59 PM by Fid »
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