Opening 53 Kaiser hood

[jim.williams1@verizon.net]

This is going to sound like a "DUH" question, but I haven't opened the hood on my Dragon for quite a while (bought it last year).  For some reason this morning when I went out to charge the battery I could not move the hood.  It seems locked in place.  I think I am working the right latch, but I had to go under the top part of the bumper to get to it.  The hood seems stuck in place, and I cannot figure out what to do.  Sorry to be such a novice dunce, but I would really appreciate any ideas you have.  Thank you VERY much for your help.  Jim

[Bobm90]

Jim,
 The only stupid question is the one never asked, that said maybe you will need the help of someone gently lifting on the hood while you try to open the latch from underneath. These are all mechanical parts and maybe one of them just "froze" up on you, if you can get your hand behind it try spraying some wd 40 or liquid wrench on the parts, don't forget the cable attached to the handle inside.  Just use a rag to protect the paint finishes from overspray.

[jim.williams1@verizon.net]

Thanks for the ideas!  The latch doesn't seem to be connected to anything.  There is a well greased spring next to it, but the latch itself moves freely and on its own.  There's a cable inside the cabin?  The only thing I can see is the choke.  I have opened it using the under hood latch in the past, but nothing seems to move now.  Real appreciate having you on the other end of the post

[Bobm90]

Jim,
 My 54 has a hood release handle is attached to a cable located to the left of the steering wheel fastened to the lower part of the dashboard, this operates a cable that runs to the primary latch on the hood lock. When the handle is pulled back, the spring on the hood lock should pop the hood open far enough for you to be able to reach between the hood and the radiator support and unlatch the secondary lock while you lift the hood. Once you get this open lube all this stuff (including hinges) so it doesn't bind up on you again BEFORE closing, you'll get'er, just keep at it.
Bob

[jim.williams1@verizon.net]

I will dutifully wear my dunce cap the rest of the day -- of not the rest of my life.  That was so hard to pull that I was afraid of breaking something.  It did ultimately pop the hood, and I am in and under   Thank you again for guiding me through this.  I have the manuals, but they are in our household goods as we move this week.  I have to add transmission fluid and oil.  Do you have guidance on types and weights?  Sorry to be such a pest.

[joefrazer]

Oil - use a 30w oil.

Transmission - use Dexron fluid. These days it's marketed as Dexron/Mercon. There is no weight to it.

[jim.williams1@verizon.net]

What a team!  Thank you very much for helping initiate this newbie into the not so secret K/F life.  I am so excited to be getting started fulfilling my lifelong dream.  I look forward to retiring on the 1st of January with my Dragon as my first line of enjoyment and satisfaction.  I cannot say how much it means knowing that when I have a question -- no matter how basic -- you all are there to provide support, knowledge, and the occasional kick in the seat of the pants.  Ghanks, again

[kaiserfrazerlibrary]

On the oil, Quaker State or Shell Rotella type Oil tend to work the best; QS still uses a trace of zinc which the older cars (not just K-F or Willys) should have for proper lubrication.

[rialto]

I have had good luck using 15w40 diesel truck oil in my Kaisers.  It's thick enough for good oil pressure and thin enough to start circulating quickly after storage or in cold weather. It generally has more zinc than gasoline engine oil.