51 frazer fuses?

[burusu]

Would anyone happen to know where to find the fuse block on a '51 Frazer Vagabond?  It seems to be hiding!

[joefrazer]

There is no fuse block on KF automobiles. The lights and switch are protected by a breaker that's attached the rear of the switch and the radio and heater have their own fuses that are in the power line to each accessory. If the car has foglights, there may be a fuse in line there too. But, again, there is no central block on 47-55 KFs.

[Fid]

This is something about cars of the 1950s and before that many modern folk are not aware of. No, they do not have fuse block/busses as we know them today.  Each electrical accessory usually had an inline fuse located in the power lead that feeds it. You didn't start seeing centrally located fuse panels until the 1960s or so. 

[HJ-ETEX]

To reinforce what Jim & Lowell said, on most American cars prior to about 1965, if you don't see a fuse panel, there is typically a 30 amp breaker (a rectangular tin can with 2 threaded posts) attached to the back of the light switch which handles all regular lights and instruments. Other accessories such as OD and Radio have specific fuse individual fuses. The OD fuse is on the relay and the radio fuse is a separate holder in the wiring at the back of the radio.
The brake lights on my 64 Studebaker went out and I had to conclude there was something wrong with the wiring itself since I couldn't find a fuse panel. However the Shop Manual said there was one but it took 3 tries hanging my legs over the front seat back with my head on the pedals to find the little 4 fuse block stuck way up in the instrument panel.     

[burusu]

Follow-up question: 

What could cause the car to keep blowing out one filament of the passenger's side headlight?  Sometimes it lasts a few hours, other times a new bulb may blow as soon as it is turned on.

[Fid]

Is the car still the original 6 volt or has it been converted to 12? (many of them have been)

[joefrazer]

I think there's a frayed wire somewhere causing the hot lead to go to ground, thereby killing the bulb. When the bulb blows, does the high beam side still work? If so, that will help narrow your search. I'm going to say that the harness between the bulb and junction block is to blame because the driver's side bulb still works. Trace your line back, starting at where the bulb connects to the wiring...look for any bare wires and repair as needed.

I had a 53K that kept blowing the headlight circuit breaker. Turns out, it was a bare wire to the license plate light. I spliced in a new wire and that ended the problem!

[Cortes121]

I experienced the same problem and found out it was wire that was grounding. The old cloth insulated wires rub through easily, so be sure to check the entire length. And if your light junction has been altered, I would check the wiring there aswell..

[HJ-ETEX]

Jim's comment about the bare lead (which is hidden by the bumper bridge so it is not exposed to the sun) to the license plate light should be remembered by everyone because it is quite common. It should also demonstrate why you don't use cloth insulated wire unless you have a show car. I fixed one car in the parking lot at the last National held in Texas (I had encountered it before) with this problem.
At that National, I also took one member twice to the local starter shop to get his starter fixed. They put a backward starter driver on the starter the first time and as soon as we walked in the next day, the shop owner knew what he had done wrong.
Well, don't expect such service at the National this year.