Radio Fuse for a '51

[konrad]

Anyone know what fuse I need for the radio in a '51?  Neither the shop manual nor the parts manual specify.

Also, is there an easy way to get the fuse tube open?  It appears there are two small indented tabs on either side of the end cap...is there an easy way to depress them to pop it off?

I'm not sure there's an actual fuse in the holder in mine...who knows, maybe all I need to do is add a fuse and I'll have a working radio. 

[Fid]

Which radio do you have, the six button or the five button?  The six button ones it says right on the fuse holder "10 Amp." But that's assuming the cable has not been replaced.  The five button, Delco radio used a 14 amp but a 10 amp would likely work just fine on that model.
As far as getting the fuse out, the holders are spring loaded to keep the fuse snug and making good contact.  To remove the fuse, push the ends together while turning it and it should release those plastic tabs.

[konrad]

Good question...didn't know there were two possible radios for this model.

I plan to pull her back out of wraps tomorrow for a jaunt to show her off to a local resto shop owner, also to take her into the mechanic I plan to use for some of the work she needs, both to show her off and discuss a time when I can have him do some of the work I need done...

I'll let you know after I count the buttons. 

[konrad]

As far as getting the fuse out, the holders are spring loaded to keep the fuse snug and making good contact.  To remove the fuse, push the ends together while turning it and it should release those plastic tabs.

Hey Fid,

Haven't gotten back at this yet, but a question...I'm inferring the type of fuse I should find in this holder is of the small glass tube, metal capped at both ends with a filament running through it type?

Thank you for all your help!

[Fid]

I'm inferring the type of fuse I should find in this holder is of the small glass tube, metal capped at both ends with a filament running through it type?

Correct.

[konrad]

So I'm not entirely at sea. 

Thank you sir!

[kaiserfrazerlibrary]

There were two significantly different radio chassis for the 1951 and 1952 Virginian model years.   The  first type was from Generl Electric and has a single row of numbers across the dial.  It has a larger chassis and will only fit in Kaisers that nave the "Bump" on the firewll (it needed extra space).  The second and (it seems) more common radio chassis was supplied by the OEM department of Delco.  A picture of it is attched; it has two rows of numbers across the dial.  It is a bit smaller than the GE OEM type and was used on 1951-1954 Early Special Kaisers.

Fid, would you agree that if there are operational issues with these two types, the problem could be either the transformer or the large capacitors as they deteriorate over time as a natural sort of thing?

[jneely]

I'll confirm that yes, capacitors are the likely offender for most issues in older radios and electronic equipment. Electrolytic caps are used in the power supply (and often in inter-stage circuits) which dry out or leak with time. This is the same reason you should avoid a NOS condenser - they go bad with time, even setting on a shelf.

[Fid]

Yes, the electrolytic capacitors do dry up over time, especially if they are not used.  If the radio gets played regularly, the electrolyte gets "stimulated" and stays liquid.  If not, it can dry up.  An old trick electronic techs used to do was if an electrolytic cap was dried up or "leaky" was to apply a high voltage to it which would "reactivate" the electrolyte in them. It didn't always work.
The Allstate radio I purchased recently had two leaky wax/paper type caps in it.  Replacing them made it play like new.  The electrolytic ones seem to be fine.