Speedometer Problems

[Logan]

Today I was driving on the freeway, the speedometer showed about 75 mph (actualy speed=65 mph), and suddenly it started making a buzzing sound, flipped past 120 mph and hung down, pointing at the "K" at the bottomr of the speedometer unit.  It did this for about 20-30 seconds, buzzing all the while, then flipped back up again for a minute or two and worked normally, with not buzzing sound.  After a while it went back down again.  For the remaining half hour trip home, it kept doing the same thing.  All the while, the odometer was ticking over normally, regardless of whether the  speedometer was working or not.  I don't know if this is the cable or some other mechanism in the speedometer housing--I'm not really sure what's involved here.

[kaiserfrazerlibrary]

You are having a cable problem or it is in the head.  My experience is that it's dried up and binding.   If it was the gear at the transmission the odometer would not work.

[Jim B PEI]

Lubricate ASAP.

[Logan]

HOW?!!!  What do I have to take off to lubricate?  What should I use to lubricate it?

[Jim B PEI]

The rattling is the cable binding and releasing inside the sheath. This was just mentioned on the Studebaker Forum. Apparently NAPA and other places sell a product for lubricating the cables. The right stuff is something that looks like graphite in an oil medium. I would remove the cable from the speedo myself to do this--it usually unscrews from the head, and there is a similar sort of thing at the transmission end for the pinion. Its been over ten years since I last did this to a Kaiser so that is why I'm a bit vague on details.  You should be able to get some in without uncrimping an end, then a bit of spinning and jiggling should work it down so that it spins inside the sheath smoothly. While in there underneath getting at the back of the dash, I suggest also lubricating the speedo head as well--there should be a wick like arrangement in a cup/a pad that takes a few drops of fine machine oil (like the 3-in-1 oil that is used on sewing machines).

By the way, if you ever have to replace a broken speedometer drive cable because it has snapped, save the old metal insert! It comes in handy for many tasks, but especially replacing the >horn wire< which is a tiresome job unless you know a trick. I got so I could replace the horn wire on a Kaiser down the steering column in under a minute, using a speedo core and dental floss to assist <g>

[darrin145]

Motorcycle shops sell cable lube. It's probably also available at auto part stores or even bicycle shops. It works well!

Gary, darrin145.

[Gordie]

They used to recommend not putting much grease on the upper third of the cable so it does not work its way up the cable to the speedometer.  Just make sure that the upper third is not dry.

[dpledger]

Used to get this in the winter with my '53. Stuff goes in slow, so I would disconnect the speedometer end (gymnastics reaching around the back and likely needing a pliers to initially loosen it,) feed the end back through the firewall, and elevate it so anything poured in runs down. The end fitting holds quite a bit, so fill, do something else, then periodically check to refill. Tedious, but always worked for me

[Logan]

Thanks for all the suggestions.  Dpledger, should I disconnect it from the transmission as well?  Also, from what Gordie says, I don't want to put too much in.

[Jim B PEI]

I generally don't make a habit of disconnecting the transmission end if I can help it, as it is not necessary, and "just because"...and do the head as well. The 49 had a broken cable when I got it due to lack of lubrication, and then the head went as well, same reason, just after the cable was fixed. Oh well, I had an NOS head, and it was time that the dash was off to clean up all those old dusty bulbs

[Fid]

I lubed the one on my '48 Frazer a couple of times. On that one, I just disconnected the cable end at the head. Then you could actually pull the core out. I squirted regular 30W oil onto a rag and ran along the length of the cable. Then, slide the cable back down the sheath. It will line itself up with the drive pinion on the tranny end, then connect it back up at the head.  You have to be very careful not to get any oil / lube on the upholstery when you do it this way.  As someone suggested, it may be best to push it through the fire wall out into the engine compartment, then pull the core out.

[dpledger]

As Jim B says, not necessary to disconnect at xmission end. Actually keeping it attached there holds it nicely in plac eso one can move the other end about at will.

[Logan]

Sounds good.  I actually did disconnect it at the tranny end todady, but that's just because I need to drive it around and won't get a chance to work on it until the weekend.  In the meantime, I wanted to make sure I didn't ruin it.  Thanks for all the suggestions.  I'll let you know how it goes.

[jmxkf1]

I had the same problem, of course, on my '53 Kaiser and the cable snapped.  I tried replacing the cable, measuring to size, from the kit they sell but I fed it into the old housing.  I used the cable lube from Napa and  still had problem.   There is a complete cable with housing and everything that Napa sells which is a little longer but you just have more room to attach to frame and then into the tranny.   I haven't had a problem since.   Let me know if you need the part number.   

[Logan]

Thanks for the heads up.  I'll try lubricating it, and if that doesn't work I'll definitely hit you up for the part number.  Thanks.