Horn button and horn ring removal writeup

[Weaz]

Push down on and rotate counter-clockwise to release the horn button.



Rotate the 'lock ring'? in the center to remove.



Here you see the nut.



Crank that sucker off.



Pull out the cup underneath.



Pull off the horn ring.



Underneath, if you are lucky, will be a moldy foam doughnut covered in spider eggs and dead bugs. Sorry no picture.

I have to admit before this I thought that you just yanked until the ring broke free (or at least that's how it works in the junk yard).

[stacks]

WOW, talk about a detailed answer!  Many Thanks

Jack

[Fid]

I actually used this info  yesterday too.  The horn in my '53 J kept "chirping" every time I hit a small bump. That contact ring was bouncing around and would touch when it shouldn't. After looking at this, I determined I had installed it upside by mistake last spring when I put a different horn ring in the car.  I flipped it over now and the horn works better and does not chirp when I drive!  Thanks.

[Weaz]

Ah yes. The student has become the MASTER!

[Fid]

Nobody knows it all.  The ones you really have to watch out for are those who think they do!

[Weaz]

True, and in the immortal words of Buckaroo Banzai, no matter where you go, there you are.

[jmxkf1]

I disassembled my '53 horn yesterday and found that the prongs of the lock ring wasn't making proper contact with the hot wire end on the button.   It appears that the wire in the steering column is riding up and moving the end of the button away from the lock ring prongs.   Maybe the wire needs to be secured near the steering box somehow.
Is there a way to restore/replace the button on the end of the wire of the steering wheel?    thanks.     

[Orphanauto]

wow, what a great topic, my 53 Manhattan is called the Happy Kaiser, because everytime I turn the wheel, it honks, hehe, I know there is a short wire in there somewhere and wasn't sure how to take it apart. Thanks for sharing, and the Photos, they helped alot. I'll work on mine soon.

[jmxkf1]

I just finished restoring my horn and wanted to add my comments.    In addition to the above information, you must also cover the three prongs on the "lock ring" ( clip piece in the first picture )   with electric tape or the horn will blow when you put it together and turn on the key.   
I replaced the rubber pad, put the horn ring on next, which had the inner plate attached, then the metal cup piece which rests on the 3 prongs on the plate.  The nut holds it all together.    But no horn no matter how hard I pressed.   I verified that there was juice however coming from the button on the end of the wire.  (I also added a brass washer on the button to make for a tighter fit for the lock ring.)   
I discovered that the horn wouldn't toot because the gap between the bottom of the lock ring and the top of the metal cup was too big to make contact when I pressed the horn ring.   
The solution was simple.  Narrow the gap by bending UP the 3 prongs inside the horn ring that the metal cup sits on.  It's best to detach the plate from the horn ring so you won't break any pot metal.    Bend all three SLIGHTLY up and  All Evenly or the horn ring will sit crooked.   
What result you ask?  Now, a slight push on the horn ring will give a pleasing toot.   This adjustment is not mentioned anywhere in the shop manual.   Let me know if anyone needs clarification.     

[Weaz]

Thanks for the additional information. The steering wheel I was using was out of a junker. I'll have to take a look at the one in my functional ride. I know it take a hell of a hard push on the button to get it to honk on mine.

[boatingbill]

I noticed in the shop manual under "steering wheel removal" that the wire and wire insulator
are to be removed from the steering column when replacing the steering wheel. There is no
mention of that in this discussion. Can the steering wheel be removed and leave the wire intact? My
wheel is cracked and was patched with "bondo" that is falling off, so I need to replace it. Thanks
for the posted pictures Weaz. So far all I have removed is the horn button.

[boatingbill]

FYI Everyone. There is no need to pull out the wire and insulator when changing the steering
wheel. I just put a 13mm by 3/8 drive socket over the wire and insulator. The socket rests on the
threaded shaft that the 15/16 nut was on. This 13mm socket goes between the threaded shaft
and the gear puller shaft. It slips over the wire and insulator. If it takes a lot of effort and no luck,
then remove the socket and put the nut back on loosely to protect the threads from mushrooming.
Be sure the nut is below the top of the shaft, so no pressure is put the treads by the 13mm
socket. Once the steering wheel moves even a fraction of a inch, remove the 15/16 nut and just use
the 13mm socket and puller. I tightened the puller and grabbed the wheel in the left and right
hand and rocked it and it popped off with little pressure. Be sure and grease the splines before
putting the wheel back on. It takes about a hour or so and sounds more complicated than it is.